tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4209483469423577012024-03-26T02:12:40.891-07:00 d i y d e s i g nGet the home you want with the money you have.Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-61943551604433696602016-11-30T09:54:00.000-08:002016-11-30T09:54:15.765-08:00How to Re-Upholster Furniture with Deep, Folded Tufts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ever since I first tried to tuft a piece of furniture the easy way (see: "<a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2011/11/simple-tufted-headboard.html" target="_blank">Simple Tufted Headboard</a>"), I have wanted to know how to properly upholster furniture with deep, diamond-folded tufts. It took me a couple years, but I finally found a fantastic seamstress and professional upholsterer who shared their secrets with me, and now I will share them with you!<br />
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I started with a simple piece, this oval ottoman. I was working on a project where we needed to find a deep burgundy ottoman, but one couldn't be found so we had to create our own!:<br />
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<b>TOOLS:</b><br />
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- Pliers<br />
- Flat-head screw-driver<br />
- Scissors<br />
- Stapler<br />
- Hammer<br />
- Permanent marker<br />
- Upholstery needle<br />
- Tweezers<br />
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<b>MATERIALS:</b><br />
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- Upholstery fabric<br />
- Fabric covered-buttons<br />
- Button cord (about 2' for each button)<br />
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<b>PROCEDURE:</b><br />
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<b>STEP 1: Remove the existing covering</b><br />
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All re-upholstery begins with pulling a lot of staples! Flip your furniture over, and using your flat-head screwdriver and pliers, start pulling out all the staples that are securing the fabric to the frame.<br />
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<b>STEP 2: Release the Buttons</b><br />
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Once you have the fabric loosened from the frame, you will need to release the buttons in order to remove the fabric. You can pull the staples securing the strings if you want to re-use them, or if you're tired of pulling staples and you don't need to re-use the strings, you can just cut them.<br />
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<b>STEP 3: Cut New Fabric</b><br />
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Take your fabric and cut a piece of new fabric that's a little bigger:<br />
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<b>STEP 4: Stretch and Mark Fabric</b><br />
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When you remove the fabric, on the underside you will find where the strings are attached. You will need to mark where these strings are. I removed the strings one at a time, and stuck a pen through the fabric to make a hole where they were:<br />
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Next you will need to stretch the fabric. A professional upholsterer will have proper tools and equipment to do this that most DIYers will not. Do the best you can by ironing out the old fabric on top of the new fabric, securing the edges with pins to keep it in place.<br />
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Using a permanent marker, mark the position of the holes onto the back-side of your new fabric:<br />
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<b>STEP 5: Attach Strings to New Fabric</b><br />
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Using an upholstery needle, double the string and and pull it through your marks just enough to form a loop. Pass the ends of the string through the loop and pull to secure the strings:<br />
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Repeat until you have strings attached to each of your marks.<br />
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<b>STEP 6: Create the New Tufts</b><br />
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You'll want to make sure that there are decent sized holes <i>(about the size of a quarter)</i> in the foam. Professional upholsterers have special tools to do this with <i>(especially handy if you have to cut new holes in new foam)</i>. If you are just re-upholstering something, the holes should already be there, but you might want to take a small serrated knife and just clear them out a little:<br />
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Thread the strings on the back of your fabric through the corresponding holes in the foam/frame. This seems like it should be easy, but it can be a little tricky. I highly suggest enlisting a partner to help you out! We found it easiest to work from right to left, bottom to top. One person on the foam side would loop the strings around a pair of tweezers and then pass it through the foam/wood to the person on the other side who would pull it through and hold onto it, so that it wouldn't slip through as the fabric was adjusted on the other side. You can also loosely tie the strings together on the other side to help with this.<br />
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Once all the right strings are pulled through all the right holes, flip the furniture over (top side down), pull the strings as hard as you can <i>(starting from the middle working your way out)</i>, and secure them to the wood on the backside:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull the cord straight back and staple<i> (use a hammer to make sure the staple is all the way in).</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull the string back across the first staple, and secure with another staple.<br /><br /></td></tr>
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When you finish securing all of the strings, flip the furniture right side up again, and you will see that the diamond folds are naturally beginning to form:<div>
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<b>STEP 7: Fold the Tufts</b><br />
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Pinch and tuck the fabric from tuft to tuft to make the folds. Make sure that you are making all your folds point in the same direction.<br />
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<b>STEP 8: Add the Buttons</b><br />
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I would highly suggest having your buttons covered by a professional upholsterer. Snap together fabric covered buttons <i>(that you can buy in a kit at any fabric store)</i> are really hard to put together<br />
with heavier upholstery fabric, and if you can get them together, they often come apart once you start to pull on them. A professional upholsterer will have a proper button press that they use to make really strong buttons that can endure a lot of pull (<i>80lbs</i>). My upholsterer did mine for 90 cents a piece - money well spent!<br />
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Double your button cord <i>(just like you did with the strings on the back of your fabric)</i> and loop it through the base of your button. Pass the ends through the loop and pull to secure:<br />
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Thread the ends of the button cord through a long upholstery needle, and pass the needle through each of the tufts, pulling the cords through to the back-side of the furniture:<br />
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Once all of the buttons are threaded through, flip your furniture over <i>(tuft-side down), </i>and once again working from the middle out, pull the cords as hard as you can<i> (try to get the bottom of the button down far enough that it is inside the wood) </i>and secure to the wood with staples:<br />
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<b>STEP 9: Fold the Edges</b><br />
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Pinch, and tuck the folds from the tufts on the outside edges. Once you get the folds as smooth as you can, firmly pull the fabric straight down and secure the folded fabric to the frame of the furniture with staples:<br />
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*<i>This particular piece of furniture had an additional foam and fabric band that went around the circumference of the bottom edge, so I could secure the staples along the bottom edge, but if it didn't, I would pull the fabric right around to the bottom and secure the folds with staples on the under-side of the frame.</i><br />
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<b>STEP 10: Trim the Excess Fabric and Finish</b><br />
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With the new fabric now totally secured to the frame, go ahead and trim off the excess:<br />
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Finish replacing any other additional pieces and enjoy your new piece of beautifully tufted furniture!<br />
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com87tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-28035626256155051652016-11-24T21:05:00.002-08:002016-11-24T21:05:43.379-08:00BLACK FRIDAY 2016!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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IT'S BACK! </div>
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This Black Friday through to Cyber Monday, $5 17x17" Printed Pillow Shams and $10 Printed Euro Shams! Check them out:</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/metzinteriors">www.etsy.com/ca/shop/metzinteriors</a></span></div>
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Various colours and patterns available. Limited quantities. This weekend only!</div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-37982844145414256422016-11-03T09:08:00.000-07:002016-11-03T10:27:40.739-07:00Faux Granite Counter-Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My home was built in 1984. By the time we moved in, May 2009 - not much had changed. One of the first things on my list slated for change was the kitchen:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We couldn't afford a $30,000 kitchen renovation, so we decided to do the best we could with what we had<i> (see my post: <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2011/07/low-budget-kitchen-renovation.html" target="_blank">"Low Budget Kitchen Renovation"</a>). </i>I made the simple changes first: painted the cabinets, added some glass doors, an over-the-range microwave and some crown moulding. That made a big difference and turned the kitchen into something that I could live with - but the counters always remained an eye-sore.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Besides the burn-marks and chips, 80's beige alligator skin was just not my thing. Especially after I painted the kitchen walls grey, the counter-tops really stood out. I knew that they would have to go, and in their place I wanted granite - but granite doesn't come cheap. The estimate to replace our kitchen counter: <b>$3000-$4000!</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Because I<i> refuse</i> to go into debt for non-essentials in our home, we decided to save up. The only problem is that in an older home, there<i> always </i>seems to be something essential that needs to be replaced or repaired. First it was the furnace and hot-water tank, then the main-floor bathtub. Next came the roof, carpet, and now the windows.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I realized that I wasn't going to get real granite counters any time soon, and I decided that for now <i>anything</i> would be better than what I had! This left me open to try something slightly experimental . . .</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you find yourself in a similar position - this could be the solution for you too!</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">TOOLS & MATERIALS:</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- 60-80 grit sandpaper</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Painter's tape</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Drop-cloths</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Paint brush</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Drill with mixing attachment</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Dry-wall trowel (large and small)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Electric palm sander</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Pail & cups (disposable)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Stir stick</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Rust-Oleum "Stone Effects" Step 1: Primer</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Rust-Oleum "Stone Effects" Step 2: Stone Coat (I used "Silver Beach")</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Circa 1895 Nu-Lustre 55 clear epoxy kit (large)</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">PROCEDURE:</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 1: Prep the counter-top</span></b><br />
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Remove any old caulking around the counter to reveal clean edges (<i>I intend to install a tile back-splash on the walls above my counters, so I wasn't too careful about this, but you may want to be</i>):</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Move appliances away from counter edges. I would also highly recommend removing your sink.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was kind of intimidated to do this as I have 0 experience with plumbing, but I found enough internet resources to guide me<i> (see links below)</i>, and it really wasn't too bad! If I can do it, you can do it!</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Kitchen-Sink"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Kitchen-Sink</span></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.lowes.com/projects/kitchen-and-dining/how-to-install-a-kitchen-sink/project"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">https://www.lowes.com/projects/kitchen-and-dining/how-to-install-a-kitchen-sink/project</span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Using heavy-grit sandpaper and an electric palm sander, sand all edges and surfaces of the counter-tops <i>(you don't need to sand anything off or down, just enough to rough things up)</i>. Clean up any dust, grease, grime, etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Use painter's tape to mask off all the edges of the counter-tops. Use plastic sheeting to protect cabinets and appliances, and drop cloths to protect your floor.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 2: Prime</span></b><br />
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Follow the product instructions and paint on Rust-Oleum Stone Effects Primer coat. It is basically like normal latex paint, but mixed with tiny granules that lead to the creation of a gritty surface. I bought the smaller container, and had enough to do 2 coats on my counter-tops.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 3: Apply Stone Coat</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Follow the product instructions and mix the stone coat mixture using an electric drill and mixing attachment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's a bit sloppy, so I found it best to spoon it along the surface and then use my dry-wall trowels to spread it out, coating the counter-top surface<i> (use a smaller trowel for edges and small surfaces and the bigger trowel for larger surfaces)</i>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found it best to start with the section along the wall, and then work my way out to the outside edges. I found this part to be a lot like spreading dry-wall mud. You have to kind of press and scrape with your trowel to spread it. I would recommend taking your time to get the edges and surfaces as smooth as possible. You <i>can</i> sand it after it dries, <b>but</b> the product is kind of like tiny plastic beads in glue - and if you've ever tried to sand plastic, you'll know it doesn't sand all that well, so taking the time to get it as smooth as possible at this stage will pay off later.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Edges can be a little tricky. I found it best to get it on there are smooth as I could, and then leave it for about an hour until it got tacky. Then, for the flat edges I used the flat side of my trowel and applied firm pressure to the edge and surface of the corner - kind of pressing/molding the product to make a sharp edge. The rounded edges were more tricky. I did the best I could to begin with, waited for the product to get a little tacky, and then used my small trowel to <i>lightly</i> go over the rounded edges at a bit of angle, and mold the product to the curve as smoothly as I possibly could.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After you are satisfied with your first coat, the product instructions suggest waiting 4 hours before re-coating, but I would wait longer. If there are any spots that aren't dry, parts of the first coat will lift off when you go to apply the 2nd coat, so I would wait 6-8 hours before applying the 2nd coat if not longer <i>(I waited 24 hours)</i>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: start;">You can go over your first coat once it is dry by hand with a piece of heavy-grit sand-paper to lightly take down any obvious bumps or ridges you missed with your trowel <i>(you don't want to go too crazy though, because you don't want to accidentally remove to much of the product!)</i>:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Follow the exact same procedure for the 2nd coat once the first coat is totally dry, Like dry-wall mud, you want to focus on<b> filling holes and sanding peaks</b>. I found that one 3.78 L pail was enough to do 1 coat on my counters, so I needed 2 pails to complete my project.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Give all surfaces and edges one last sand to take down any peaks and smooth any ridges. Clean up all loose particles.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 4: Epoxy coat</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This in my opinion is the trickiest part. </span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Prep:</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In preparation for this step I would highly recommend trying to do your best to create as much of a dust-free environment as possible. I spent an entire day just cleaning obvious and hidden sources of dust <i>(light fixtures, on top of cabinets, inside of cupboards, out of registers and air vents, etc.) </i> The problem with dust is that it will settle in the epoxy as it dries and ruin the finish. It was a lot of work, but in my case, it needed to be done anyway and it was worth it in the end!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><br /></i><i><b>* This step gets messy!</b> </i>Make sure appliances and cabinets are well protected with plastic sheeting. I would also recommend laying plastic sheeting or garbage bags underneath your drop cloths on the floor as excess product will soak through even heavy drop cloths.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rust-Oleum does make an epoxy product for counter-tops; however, I was concerned that I was going to have to buy more than 1 kit to get enough product, which gets a little pricey.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOUQcFPmoSZ8VmbnZNp2Q0qBdgRP_qI0LHDq4quEcpgOhFsYT0z1YVN7dTmjySrkQX_HzmL8hRy-CBldRT3Z2lFKCdYcHZPjfkxc-FESOZWdUkUqjsWZbajl-u5xu_UPoQczk7A1Kf1L4/s1600/p_1000482831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOUQcFPmoSZ8VmbnZNp2Q0qBdgRP_qI0LHDq4quEcpgOhFsYT0z1YVN7dTmjySrkQX_HzmL8hRy-CBldRT3Z2lFKCdYcHZPjfkxc-FESOZWdUkUqjsWZbajl-u5xu_UPoQczk7A1Kf1L4/s400/p_1000482831.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">http://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stoneffects/countertop-coating</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I went to local paint shop <a href="http://www.fergusonpaint.ca/" target="_blank">Ferguson Paint and Design</a> to speak with an expert about an alternative option. They introduced me to Circa 1895 Nu Lustre 55 clear epoxy. This is pretty much the same product, but I was able to get much more, for much less.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Read the instructions carefully before you get started, and follow them closely when you are ready to start.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Essentially, you mix together equal parts of resin and hardener:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UgChNxjhNXvJ8I820UtatG-y298qoHCLhXoOhmewabbYDpJldvuyk0pUMdB1GgQFo0aUCeF69egHiJ0v0shI3vg4q_tj13J9ECjY93Nul7mFtiBlH-fFpTVZAdO6ubUbpAvyCmeh-JM/s1600/IMG_7119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UgChNxjhNXvJ8I820UtatG-y298qoHCLhXoOhmewabbYDpJldvuyk0pUMdB1GgQFo0aUCeF69egHiJ0v0shI3vg4q_tj13J9ECjY93Nul7mFtiBlH-fFpTVZAdO6ubUbpAvyCmeh-JM/s640/IMG_7119.JPG" width="426" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once mixed, use an old cup or scoop to pour the liquid onto your counter-top <i>(anything you use with the epoxy will be ruined, so use things that you won't be sad to loose!). </i>Like the stone coat, I started with the edge along the wall, and then worked my way out to the outer-edge of the counter.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIm52p10XkLDCrWd6_Mgy34Nq7691YisMSFTBNttz6kCTQ4mf8X16FZd-CzdBTLaP_PBLxnpy2urc_X3363uFBN70zQ1N-POERNWw3Qs8n7R_3kc8XK4fCfr_wgtEXJrg6la-uySH3Urg/s1600/IMG_7121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIm52p10XkLDCrWd6_Mgy34Nq7691YisMSFTBNttz6kCTQ4mf8X16FZd-CzdBTLaP_PBLxnpy2urc_X3363uFBN70zQ1N-POERNWw3Qs8n7R_3kc8XK4fCfr_wgtEXJrg6la-uySH3Urg/s640/IMG_7121.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once the mixture is poured onto the counter-top, use something with a flat, straight edge<i> (I just used my mixing stick)</i> to spread it all over every surface and edge. Be careful to spread it, but <b>not</b> scrape it. You want it to be as thick and even as possible. You have about 20-30 minutes of working time before the product begins to set, so you'll want to work fairly quickly. The product will continue to spread and self-level on flat surfaces, so you don't have to be too fussy with it, you just have to make sure everything is covered.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once you have everything covered, you will want to be on the look-out for small air-bubbles that rise to the surface. These will need to be broken, or they will set into the epoxy, ruining your finish. You can blow on them gently, or I used a tooth-pick to prick them. It can be difficult to see the bubbles! I would suggest working in full light, and getting down to look at the surface from eye-level.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPbPnuaevJSSNzfMTEMVRZpMYGgi_MDZC-WIGN_uE-wZz3N97NZU_2qO1_-3MIdNCf7BEV28Xj9xtLMw4M3ior3hrzbCEmnkvrJOxqP7MM-My3upX0SAfEcVKxhiR4sgeR5IIr-DNsz0/s1600/IMG_7127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPbPnuaevJSSNzfMTEMVRZpMYGgi_MDZC-WIGN_uE-wZz3N97NZU_2qO1_-3MIdNCf7BEV28Xj9xtLMw4M3ior3hrzbCEmnkvrJOxqP7MM-My3upX0SAfEcVKxhiR4sgeR5IIr-DNsz0/s640/IMG_7127.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You will also want to be on guard for drips that form on the bottom edge of the counter. You can use a paint-brush or cloth to wipe these off, or a flat stick to scrape them off as the product sets.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After my first coat of epoxy dried, I did notice a couple areas where I had spread the epoxy too thin, or where I had missed air bubbles:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TFH0VLKUBilQyi9onBCBe7XjIXz1Eiz72q8ts8MtISjNgAfzJ7mm8GqS6QHia6a1T3mLaGq-NnwLIDFbTLS9if2z5jjSnx9ig1IbiHXC_TWWTiE2EruvZ-MkppR0WUThyphenhypheny63VbFLCds/s1600/IMG_7115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TFH0VLKUBilQyi9onBCBe7XjIXz1Eiz72q8ts8MtISjNgAfzJ7mm8GqS6QHia6a1T3mLaGq-NnwLIDFbTLS9if2z5jjSnx9ig1IbiHXC_TWWTiE2EruvZ-MkppR0WUThyphenhypheny63VbFLCds/s640/IMG_7115.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I really wasn't happy with how that turned out, so I decided to give these sections a light sand, and then applied a 2nd coat of epoxy over top of the whole works and was much happier with the final result <i>(a 2nd coat may not be necessary if you can get it right the first time!)</i>.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9CgEOgG35dqI2qAYsX8w4E1MZcFnQ_mX_1Q3JxuH5sMFN2IcasC2NoaoVE39FjGBiKAsfb6Nug_yOGmCcIV66bSO9M6PL9L74PbqgLCqmyLlziMAN5xeGiZ2D5Mj5fpJhK3P4_sMJv0/s1600/IMG_7149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9CgEOgG35dqI2qAYsX8w4E1MZcFnQ_mX_1Q3JxuH5sMFN2IcasC2NoaoVE39FjGBiKAsfb6Nug_yOGmCcIV66bSO9M6PL9L74PbqgLCqmyLlziMAN5xeGiZ2D5Mj5fpJhK3P4_sMJv0/s640/IMG_7149.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In 24 hours it will be dry to the touch, but I would suggest leaving it alone to cure for a couple of days <i>(I waited 72 hours)</i>. Generally speaking, the longer you can wait, the better.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After everything has dried, you may notice a couple drips on the bottom edge that you missed. These can be easily sanded smooth.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCr1gw7lTSp073te8-XKZ_LudL4JOyV08Uq0PDeFgy8wEK2gZ-qT0Yra-PQPG5NnjSFR6ivWYq6wWdGoqwQ6lZbAWOGhcw1Cw2o-GuXWL84gI99c6w0T_LHlkBVsnRoReuRjH_a5nSmA/s1600/IMG_7277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCr1gw7lTSp073te8-XKZ_LudL4JOyV08Uq0PDeFgy8wEK2gZ-qT0Yra-PQPG5NnjSFR6ivWYq6wWdGoqwQ6lZbAWOGhcw1Cw2o-GuXWL84gI99c6w0T_LHlkBVsnRoReuRjH_a5nSmA/s640/IMG_7277.JPG" width="426" /></span></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 5: Replace your sink & appliances</span></b><br />
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<b>STEP 6: Wax</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><br /></b>Following the product instructions, apply a coat of marble/granite wax to protect your new counter-top from scratches <i>(you can also use a paste car wax if you can't find true marble/granite wax)</i>. I babied my new counters for the first little bit, subjecting them only to light use for about the first week. After that, I would recommend using cutting boards and hot-pads to protect your counter-top finish, but really, it's impressively durable!</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 7: Enjoy your new counter-tops!</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><br /></b>It was a bit of a process, and it was pain to loose my kitchen for about a week total, but all in all I'm pretty happy with the final results! Because I'm fussy, I would have preferred the colour to be just a little less grey and a little bit more like salt & pepper - but really, I'm very impressed with the Rust-Oleum Stone Effects product. The final result definitely isn't real granite, but it is certainly better than what we had before, and for under $300 <i>(it would have been $200 if I didn't do a 2nd coat of epoxy)</i>, it's a pretty good alternative that looks granite-ish. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The flat surfaces look really good! Vertical surfaces don't get quite as smooth because the epoxy can't self-level on vertical surfaces - so especially in certain light you can see a bit of a ripple, but all in all I'm still quite impressed with the final results! And for a tenth of the cost ($300 vs $3000), I really can't complain!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">BEFORE</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">AFTER</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">COST BREAK-DOWN:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Rust-Oleum Stone Effects Primer (946ml) $16.99</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Rust-Oleum Stone Effects Stone Coat<i> (3.78 L x 2 @ $39.99 each) $79.98</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">- Circa 1895 Nu Lustre 55 clear epoxy kit (1 gallon) $89.99</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> <b>TOTAL $186.96</b></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(Extra coat of epoxy: + $89.99 = $276.95)</span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">*Stay tuned to see the final kitchen make-over!*</span></i></b></div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-56799009703007910642016-08-08T22:01:00.001-07:002016-08-09T12:29:52.799-07:007 Day Make-Over Bedroom Surprise!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have a very dear friend whom I care very much about. She is sweet and kind and one of the most selfless and devoted mothers I have ever seen. Her son has autism. His needs are high. Since his diagnosis, much <i>(if not all)</i> of her life has revolved around trying to understand and meet his needs. It's a complex, confusing, exhausting process, and just when she seems to get a handle on things, things change.<br />
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We had a conversation a few months back, where she told me that she would really like to have a nice space in her home - but with the needs of her son consuming the majority of her time and energy, her home had just dropped off of her list of priorities. Ever since then, I have wished that I could use my talents to do something special<i> just</i> for her - but the opportunity wasn't presenting itself, until 2 weeks ago . . .<br />
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I was able to do some work for her mother, and we got talking. I found out that her Mom also wished to create a special space for her dearly loved daughter, but she didn't know how to go about it. Previous attempts had just added more stress and work to my friend's already heavy load and ended in disaster. <br />
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The stars aligned and we conspired to create a surprise makeover for her birthday in the spring; however, we found out that she and her family were going away the following week creating a perfect opportunity!<br />
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We flew into action! We only had 7 days to pull everything together. Such a tight time-line was a challenge for me because I had to rely heavily on items that could be acquired locally <i>(and selection was slim)</i> - or that could be sent to us <i>fast</i>. It was also a challenge because I couldn't speak to my friend or her husband at all in order to keep the surprise, so I had to rely solely on input from her family.<br />
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Her mom snuck me into the house one evening while my friend and her family were out of town so I could take some measurements and come up with a plan. The bedroom was purely functional. One of the biggest problems was that there was just too much furniture in the room. This left it feeling crowded. I have come up against this problem before several times in master bedrooms<i> (including my own)</i>. The dilemma to be solved entails how to get rid of some of the furniture in the room in order to create more space, but still retain enough storage options for all the stuff . . .<br />
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Part of the solution is down-sizing, and gratefully my friend has a sister who is great at it! Because we were doing this without her knowledge, I made her sister promise not to throw anything out. Rather, she kept the items she knew her sister used most, boxed up what she thought could go, and put them into storage where she could later go through them and decide what she wanted to keep and what she was ready to let go of.<br />
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With everything that was left we decided to maximize under-used space in the closet with a new organizational system and under-bed storage hidden behind a bed-skirt. This allowed us to loose 1 dresser. I really wanted to loose<i> both</i> of them, but found that we needed just a little more storage space. I found that a conventional dresser just ate up too much room, which would force me to off-center the bed in the room<i> (which I can't stand)</i>, so I started looking at more <i>unconventional</i> options.<br />
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The solution ended up being a sideboard. Designed more to be a piece of dining-room furniture than bedroom furniture, it is much more narrow than a conventional dresser, which gave us the space we needed but still offered options for a little more closed storage.<br />
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Originally, I designed the room with very glamorous mirrored pieces - but while her mom and sister <i>loved</i> them, they felt that trying to keep them clean with her son would leave my friend feeling stressed out, so we opted for much less glamorous, but much more practical furniture from the Hemnes collection at Ikea.<br />
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Colour was a hard thing to decide on without having the chance to talk to my friend or her husband! I took my cues from the navy found in the room and confirmed with her family that navy was a colour she had always been partial too. The only trick with navy is that it can make things feel very dark, especially in a smaller space, so I chose to balance it out with lots of white and a very warm grey on the walls <i>("Edgecomb Gray" by Benjamin Moore</i>) to soften the harsh contrast.<br />
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With Mom and sisters' approval of the final plan, we went straight to work and miraculously everything came together with only a few little blips!<br />
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It was a total surprise! My friend had absolutely <i>no idea </i>what we were up to while she was away! Surprise renos always make me a little nervous because I never know exactly how it's going to go over, but to my great relief she <i>loved</i> it <i>(though she wants to ask her sister about where some of her things went!)</i>.Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-639934176382837022016-03-28T21:03:00.000-07:002016-04-07T03:06:32.018-07:00DIY Pipe & Plank Shelving<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We began renovating our basement last year and it has proved to be a challenge! The space itself is not challenging (it's basically just a big rectangle), but we're a family of 6 in a 2000 sqft house, and much is demanded of our basement. We need it to be a media space, play space, guest space, office space and a music space (yes, that's a lot of spaces to fit into one big rectangle) - oh, and we're on a tight budget. I was turning out to be my own most difficult client!<br />
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I spent hours puzzling over how I could fit everything in, in a logical, functional way - still give things some measure of aesthetic appeal,<i> and</i> make it all fit in our budget. During this time I had the opportunity to design a basement for a family who also needed many things from their basement. It turns out that sometimes you need to look at someone else's space in order to derive solutions for your own!<br />
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I had seen pipe and plank shelving before and thought it to be a brilliant solution for low budget, custom shelving needs. I used it to create a home office space for this particular client of mine, and in the process, realized that it could also solve some of my own problems with my basement.<br />
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Pipe and plank shelving is great for a number of reasons:<br />
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<b>1) It's affordable</b><br />
<b>2) It's customizable</b><br />
<b>3) It's pretty easy to do</b><br />
<b>4) It looks cool</b><br />
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I did the regular Google research and found a tutorial on<span style="color: cyan;"> </span><a href="http://diyshowoff.com/2014/01/07/tips-for-making-a-diy-pipe-shelving-unit/2/" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;">DIY Show Off</span> </a>which gave me the general gist of things. I thought this was a good tutorial, and don't see the need to re-invent the wheel - so I would refer people there, but I did make a few tweaks of my own:<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">TOOLS/MATERIALS:</span></b><br />
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- Measuring tape and pencil<br />
- <span style="background-color: white; color: cyan;">1/2" steel pipe fittings</span> of appropriate lengths, 1/2" flanges, T-joints, and 90* elbows<br />
- Spray paint (if you want to change the colour of the pipes)<br />
- 16" wide wood planks<i> (mine were listed as 16"wide, but were really more like 15")</i><br />
<i>- </i>Wood stain and lacquer (opt)<br />
- Drill<br />
- 1" hole saw<br />
- screws & screw driver<br />
- Stud finder / hollow wall anchors<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">PROCEDURE:</span></b><br />
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<b>STEP 1: Plan out shelf and collect pipe fittings</b><br />
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After briefly reviewing the tutorial on<a href="http://diyshowoff.com/2014/01/07/tips-for-making-a-diy-pipe-shelving-unit/" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;"> DIY Show Off</span>,</a> I thought building this shelf was going to be a piece of cake. I set to work designing the shelf I wanted and then ran out to the hardware store to get the necessary pieces.<br />
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The first problem arose at the first hardware store I visited. I knew what I was looking for, but didn't really know what to call it. After wandering around the hardware store for awhile, I finally found my way to the <b>"Pipe Fittings"</b> section of the <b>Plumbing</b> department. There were plenty of copper pipes and plastic pipes - neither was what I wanted.<br />
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I finally found the pipes I was looking for <b>(</b>they're called<b> <a href="https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.black-steel-pipe-nipple-12-inch-x-18-inch.1000171811.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;">1/2" steel "nipples"</span></a></b> by the way<b>)</b> - but was sorely disappointed by the selection! Apparently steel pipes aren't in high demand, and a lot of hardware stores don't stock a ton. They come in standard sizes (6", 1', 18", 2', 3'), but I had a really hard time finding the 1'-2' sizes <i>(locally I had the best luck at Lowes, but they still didn't have everything I needed)</i>. I was also hoping to avoid spray painting the pipes if I could, so I was hoping to find all the pieces I needed in the colour I was hoping for (they come in galvanized pipe, black iron, and black steel). I couldn't find all the pieces I wanted <i>(my original design required 36, 1' pieces)</i>, let alone pieces of the same colour - so the hunt began!<br />
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I visited <b>5 </b>different hardware stores and gained an assortment of various parts of various colours <i>(I was going to have to spray paint - boo. . .)</i>. I basically had to scrap my original design and look at what I had and what I could do with it and then make a design based on that. This is what I ended up with:<br />
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<b>STEP 2: Put the pipes together and make sure it's going to fit your space</b><br />
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Another problem I encountered was accurately calculating the height of the pipes when put together (this is because the joints add height, and I wasn't sure how far I could screw the pipes into the joints). <br />
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I had to just do this the old-fashioned way and put a section of pipe together and physically make sure it would fit in my space.<br />
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In doing this, I also discovered another problem. The 12" lengths with 90* elbows were designed for the shelf to sit on top of (they needed to stop short of the wall) - but I would need the top 12" length with a flange to extend past the 12" length with elbow in order to go right back to the wall.</div>
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So I went back to the hardware store and picked up a <b>"1/2" close"</b> and <b>"1/2" 2-way connector"</b> for each of the top 12" lengths. This solved my problem!</div>
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<b>STEP 3: Measure and drill holes in planks</b></div>
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Once I had the details of my design worked out, I picked up 3, 16"x 8' unfinished pine planks from <a href="https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.shelving-pine-bulk-2-edge-glued-34-inch-16-inch-x-96-inch.1000168793.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;">The Home Depot </span></a>. </div>
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In the<span style="color: cyan;"><a href="http://diyshowoff.com/2014/01/07/tips-for-making-a-diy-pipe-shelving-unit/" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;"> DIY Show Off</span></a> </span>tutorial, the author made a cardboard template to cut the holes for the pipes in their wood planks. I started with 1 board, and just measured and marked 3/4" in from the side and front of each front corner:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcGN3c7iJkKU-2FYA5QW845-55CwIhJceypY7eCglLpltZXdm9XxpOWkXB0eUIz2Xh2b5kjv2UI27k1ClWf4feBHXzbfsnH0EXRMR-AEWZ9YB8AEtZhRZygHLW3or8UjGAEHSr-cYqOVw/s1600/03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcGN3c7iJkKU-2FYA5QW845-55CwIhJceypY7eCglLpltZXdm9XxpOWkXB0eUIz2Xh2b5kjv2UI27k1ClWf4feBHXzbfsnH0EXRMR-AEWZ9YB8AEtZhRZygHLW3or8UjGAEHSr-cYqOVw/s640/03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From there, I measured where I wanted my other two pipe supports to go, and marked them in 3/4" from the front edge of the board. Once the placement of all my holes was measured and marked, I drilled the holes in the center of my marks with my<span style="color: cyan;"> <a href="https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-inch-hole-saw-1-piece.1000655837.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;">1" hole saw</span></a> </span>(attached to a drill):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYigMpnbS7Qu1UU_6EKwGbdl5BpZksglS-n81mypSwFFFTkGBl6G2oGm2H-XkLWu5QgwyAMXOSmP7Q72PplyyXC95ju4obs2jVRMeNF6wHkzORWmWgpDejTZ6eZUf6ZyQF8AY617pt1E/s1600/04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYigMpnbS7Qu1UU_6EKwGbdl5BpZksglS-n81mypSwFFFTkGBl6G2oGm2H-XkLWu5QgwyAMXOSmP7Q72PplyyXC95ju4obs2jVRMeNF6wHkzORWmWgpDejTZ6eZUf6ZyQF8AY617pt1E/s640/04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Because all of my boards were going to be the same, after I finished cutting the holes in my first board, I just clamped it onto my other board ensuring that the edges were flush, and used it as a template to cut the same holes in my other boards.</div>
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After all my holes were cut, I proceeded to sand, stain, and lacquer my shelves.</div>
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<b>STEP 4: Assemble and install </b></div>
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<i>You're probably going to want a partner to help with this next step!</i></div>
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Instead of building my shelf from the ground up, we chose to just put it all together on the floor and then stand it up in place.</div>
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Once we had it up in place, 1 person held it steady while the other marked the holes in the top flanges. Because I had specific objects in mind that I wanted to place at the bottom of my shelf, I positioned the pipes around those objects, and did not place the pipes where there were studs in the wall. Where there wasn't studs, I used heavy-duty hollow walls anchors and screwed the top flange into them. I did however, get lucky with 2 pipes and hit studs!</div>
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We did find that there was some flex and wobble in the shelf while we were putting it up. Consequently, we started by securing the one end pipe to the wall, and then measured from pipe to pipe to make sure that it was the same distance on the wall that it was on the shelf before securing the next flange to the wall. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmg72AO9DE6MmhUjSoGm6rr0SybLjwEJ4T11lTIYqIeW-aQMKkJoiqiGtBCwYPnDwo22RNDLMpEv3BsGUA8wy2dY-tQrF5ovpj9NLJAVPSrKwbrEe8YgJfzUhDavCKiognn1jvVLXyb8Y/s1600/05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmg72AO9DE6MmhUjSoGm6rr0SybLjwEJ4T11lTIYqIeW-aQMKkJoiqiGtBCwYPnDwo22RNDLMpEv3BsGUA8wy2dY-tQrF5ovpj9NLJAVPSrKwbrEe8YgJfzUhDavCKiognn1jvVLXyb8Y/s640/05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After all the top flanges were secured to the wall, because I put this shelf into my basement and didn't want to anchor the bottom flanges into my concrete floor (through my new carpet!), I used 4, <a href="https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1-inch--zinc-corner-brace-100pk.1000773656.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: cyan;">1" corner braces</span></a> on the bottom side of the bottom shelf to anchor the unit into the studs of the wall:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdSUrZXO1Hmpytu03PjPz6VeWW__FVsF4rbNwqE9VTsn7B6EoDmBLfD9IrwS5a746lFywECv-XVH-BHcHHVU3JwBQHqzR9SQtONGU_fif-YpE7g3m7rCEtj1PnTh3VBtpi9m4o5fI7tU/s1600/07.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdSUrZXO1Hmpytu03PjPz6VeWW__FVsF4rbNwqE9VTsn7B6EoDmBLfD9IrwS5a746lFywECv-XVH-BHcHHVU3JwBQHqzR9SQtONGU_fif-YpE7g3m7rCEtj1PnTh3VBtpi9m4o5fI7tU/s640/07.bmp" width="640" /></a></div>
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The end result was very sturdy, and fit just the way I wanted it to! Huzzah!</div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-91699766976187717112016-01-26T11:57:00.000-08:002016-01-27T12:53:54.993-08:00If You Are Buying, Building, or Renovating a Home in 2016 - Please, PLEASE - AVOID the Following: <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Cgvk1VJuvETm3LwL9vskj-hPXWDBTWOipYnq-vb9SQjZ3i3XIZfo3kjUcfxEjcWtAxWJogc7lo0BMZf5Kd3GR-kT1QaEQSKYKqDiQobRDcR9ObqgFGdNuAOBSdn6nqMenHUNE2xlg70/s1600/TITLE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Cgvk1VJuvETm3LwL9vskj-hPXWDBTWOipYnq-vb9SQjZ3i3XIZfo3kjUcfxEjcWtAxWJogc7lo0BMZf5Kd3GR-kT1QaEQSKYKqDiQobRDcR9ObqgFGdNuAOBSdn6nqMenHUNE2xlg70/s640/TITLE.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
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Most often posts on my blog are about what-to-do, but today this post is about <b>what-NOT-to-do</b> in order to love your home more. I have the great privilege of being able to go into many different people's homes and help them out with their spaces. It seemed like in 2015 I was often called into homes to help address some of the <b>same</b> problems over and over again - which is why I feel the need to speak out<b> now</b> - <i>before</i> it's too late for other homes. These are problems that are <i>not</i> easy to work around - because the problems lay in the way the space has been constructed - which can not be easily changed. So please, PLEASE, <i>for the love of all that is good and holy </i>- if you are buying, building or seriously renovating a home in 2016 please <b>AVOID</b> the following 5 things:<br />
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<b>1) CORNER FIREPLACE:</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtencln8aTnAQrvo2A8W42MAcI9Ma0HHkfcvtD-PgbrKMcn6yDLNflVqvIGVtMaYOMkyexGsrJayGp0whO7zGMxqPAP-8FooXLCUoD6wRrt1s-Hoi113X3lj_Xm7MgPP7DpqOf0j4SqAo/s1600/corner-fireplace-ideas-design-simple-ideas-corner-fireplace-tile-corner-fireplaces-design-ideas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtencln8aTnAQrvo2A8W42MAcI9Ma0HHkfcvtD-PgbrKMcn6yDLNflVqvIGVtMaYOMkyexGsrJayGp0whO7zGMxqPAP-8FooXLCUoD6wRrt1s-Hoi113X3lj_Xm7MgPP7DpqOf0j4SqAo/s640/corner-fireplace-ideas-design-simple-ideas-corner-fireplace-tile-corner-fireplaces-design-ideas.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The biggest culprit I saw in 2015 was the <b>corner fireplace</b>. I don't know why, but it seems like a bunch of home-builders decided this was a good idea - <b>it's NOT,</b> and I'll tell you why: <br />
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When designing a space, the first thing you want to determine is a <b>primary point of focus.</b> That primary focal point is where the attention and direction of the room is focused and everything else falls into place around it. Focal points should be clearly defined and organized in a hierarchy <i>(primary, secondary, tertiary. . .</i>), and <b>should not</b> compete with each other for dominance.<br />
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Primary focal points are almost <i>always </i>the most commanding architectural feature of a space (<i>like a fireplace, or big window, etc)</i>. Thus - when you have a fireplace in a room, it <i>should</i> be the primary point of focus - <b>not</b> a side thought. If you are going to put a fireplace in a space, it should be centrally located where it will be easy to arrange everything else around it. My favourite is smack-dab in the center of the main wall of the space - <i>not</i> stuffed into a corner.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWZPD4nQL6xBbIp5gPo36u62HM2fhuUqFv9CQobeoaTGWlHNVg5VTY7c_opZfkQ2YYbstFAu_LKSHkPdcDSx9uiAYY2fWGMuMtm2ucq9YORAEVHddG1c6iJLXH68nEXm1wK_UgzXBOmg/s1600/P1280045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWWZPD4nQL6xBbIp5gPo36u62HM2fhuUqFv9CQobeoaTGWlHNVg5VTY7c_opZfkQ2YYbstFAu_LKSHkPdcDSx9uiAYY2fWGMuMtm2ucq9YORAEVHddG1c6iJLXH68nEXm1wK_UgzXBOmg/s640/P1280045.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Being side by side, the TV /fireplace and piano are competing for attention, but because of the corner fireplace there's nowhere else for this piano to go . . . </td></tr>
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I know corner fireplaces can be made to look nice in show-homes - but it's easy to make show homes look nice because they don't have <b>real </b>people living in them with <b>real</b> stuff! Don't be deceived! Corner fireplaces limit furniture arrangement possibilities (<i>most often you are limited to a L-shaped arrangement</i>), and eat up wall space (<i>because it impacts the two walls they are attached to instead of 1</i>). They become<i> really </i>difficult when another element that commands attention needs to be included in the space (<i>like a TV, or a piano - or both in the case of one of my clients!</i>), because the two features when placed side-by-side <i>(which you often have to do because you have no other choice</i>) will compete with each other disrupting the hierarchy and creating confusion!<br />
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There are very few ways to pull off a corner fireplace well. The best is in a very large, open space without much else in it. This maximizes your options for furniture arrangements.<br />
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If you're reading this too late, and you're already stuck with one of these suckers, the best thing to do is to give it more prominence by pulling it up all the way to the ceiling. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0wchaUBdcjoH2gk22X1sHh0x3EeFtohvmMuDE6Kt8SC-bSCVPXbL_EoAE_P8AP-TrKylb4BJfgENoryfpz2_oxHmzdaJpbpAyGPXTcNogdvdaEeWBNdaqOGxqHUBdwIByYK7urZ7NqpQ/s1600/05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0wchaUBdcjoH2gk22X1sHh0x3EeFtohvmMuDE6Kt8SC-bSCVPXbL_EoAE_P8AP-TrKylb4BJfgENoryfpz2_oxHmzdaJpbpAyGPXTcNogdvdaEeWBNdaqOGxqHUBdwIByYK7urZ7NqpQ/s640/05.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>If you can't do "best" try for "better</i>." We couldn't change the position of the fireplace in this home and the piano had to stay in this room - so we cleaned up the decorative arrangement above the piano centralizing attention by using a round mirror and some lamps. Then we drew the fireplace all the way up to the ceiling, kept the TV above the fireplace and balanced it out with tall drapes on the window. It's not the<i> best</i>, but it's <i>better</i>.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO95luLt-WOZYJgEjiWYJ1qEGk_mjdCJeflwtXL5N5ic3B7J29toIls4I-3eghmE0zk06XHpcHXNHH2w3E6gko13JJWgWmrcZg3eCoM6KlY3YyODjchYDqmrYJjvRGIFpbkaYsNaJvU8/s1600/2407f6827545ee5ac4e4fffd133bba37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO95luLt-WOZYJgEjiWYJ1qEGk_mjdCJeflwtXL5N5ic3B7J29toIls4I-3eghmE0zk06XHpcHXNHH2w3E6gko13JJWgWmrcZg3eCoM6KlY3YyODjchYDqmrYJjvRGIFpbkaYsNaJvU8/s640/2407f6827545ee5ac4e4fffd133bba37.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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If you also have a TV in the space, place it<b> above</b> the fireplace, <b>NOT</b> beside it. This way you are combining these two attention grabbers into a single focal point instead of dividing them into 2 competing ones. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib45GNy686Ju5GJqofGdcnwFwZVwKTyk3Dr5sky3GNuMx9veUP-VFq5Xysns1_mN3Q17M6P02l2cjGnGdR8uAGWT98cZkdadP2iDPN5KBOHwjBPU8sVkgjMIRyHWn9RbnW0jhMgZmNmGI/s1600/4b3f239b98a22ded31f0591509886a80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib45GNy686Ju5GJqofGdcnwFwZVwKTyk3Dr5sky3GNuMx9veUP-VFq5Xysns1_mN3Q17M6P02l2cjGnGdR8uAGWT98cZkdadP2iDPN5KBOHwjBPU8sVkgjMIRyHWn9RbnW0jhMgZmNmGI/s640/4b3f239b98a22ded31f0591509886a80.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TV & fireplace combined in a single focal Point</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0x8OPosYTEjJE1NJ0yLbBxHvS0fcq2HLPjgywnR6Yvytzp_0qw-6B9Q77ibaTK1Z2qf2bFD0mxGRl6daw09ZPzas8F6b-JbqHNhNAhMKt-KwkV0_aDE9S7pWx8ciQZahcIdvxGjwpsjE/s1600/ed3f98e8a5ef34fed8aa1f4e9a624514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0x8OPosYTEjJE1NJ0yLbBxHvS0fcq2HLPjgywnR6Yvytzp_0qw-6B9Q77ibaTK1Z2qf2bFD0mxGRl6daw09ZPzas8F6b-JbqHNhNAhMKt-KwkV0_aDE9S7pWx8ciQZahcIdvxGjwpsjE/s640/ed3f98e8a5ef34fed8aa1f4e9a624514.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corner fireplace & TV placed side by side in 2 competing focal points. I don't know where to place my attention - the TV? Or the fireplace? </td></tr>
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<b>2) CHOPPED UP FLOORING: </b><br />
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Next to walls, nothing divides space more effectively than flooring. Chopping up flooring makes space feel smaller and <b>limits options</b> for function and aesthetics <i>(determines what the space can be used for and restricts how furniture can be arranged)</i>. When it comes to flooring - particularly in open and connected spaces -<i> </i><b><i>less</i> is always better</b>. Ultimately if you can be consistent with just 1 flooring type in the space that is ideal, but two <i>can</i> work if they are different mediums and you are using them to specifically and purposely divide spaces with different functional purposes (ie: a tile/carpet or /wood/carpet or tile/wood). 3 different flooring mediums in an open and connected space is pushing it. It can be skillfully done, but is best avoided, and I would never do more than 3. DO NOT put different selections of the same medium next to each other<i> (carpet next to a different kind of carpet, tile next to a different type of tile, etc</i>) and don't put fake wood <i>(like laminate or tile wood planks)</i> next to real wood - <b>ever</b>.<br />
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<b>3) SMALL DECORATIVE ALCOVES:</b><br />
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Sometimes people will build these in simply to avoid having too many blank walls. DON'T! There's nothing wrong with blank walls! Blank walls give you <b>multiple</b> options - small alcoves <i>limit </i>your options.<br />
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Decorative alcoves often draw <b>a lot</b> of attention to whatever is put in them. They are great for displaying famous pieces of art in European cathedrals - but they most often seem out of place in average homes and the main challenge to residents is: "what the heck am I going to put in there?" Decorative alcoves tend to create a "shrine" effect. They draw attention and give importance to whatever they display - and most often, average home owners don't really have something of great importance to put in them. Most often they become cluttered with trinkets or become collecting points for junk.<br />
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Large alcoves can be great, and can enhance the function and character of a space - but that is because they are big enough to support different options. Small alcoves are limiting, and you're better off to just avoid them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-AyXFO50sIY-bexdzvWIXzjZUexq1JyHCu5V62kLh7bkbDj2oXVvkUMVeM9D7xl5_aOSQjY6V8IeH-WFWfkmXAgtRQJaeKTm984xRHNInp6gLvoBTYLHnd5528bNvU8zWKlLg6DVAGgM/s1600/4982714ef2191e084bfbcedf18dda555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-AyXFO50sIY-bexdzvWIXzjZUexq1JyHCu5V62kLh7bkbDj2oXVvkUMVeM9D7xl5_aOSQjY6V8IeH-WFWfkmXAgtRQJaeKTm984xRHNInp6gLvoBTYLHnd5528bNvU8zWKlLg6DVAGgM/s640/4982714ef2191e084bfbcedf18dda555.jpg" width="608" /></a></div>
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<b>4) BUILT-IN DECORATIVE LEDGES:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMEgPgKzNavQjPllFrhTdONatHueuwqrXFj8OGBO70goJA5WyMlPSlX_w5PofJs4UrVNG-ovtYk7Oabkq5KwcEXM5qdSnNVCmYZzyGXjZ4fGhZJm8ngy4JeSNSfzdwGUvBbZEBUaDOYk/s1600/46f869710dc9c8f080600992e99e99b8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMEgPgKzNavQjPllFrhTdONatHueuwqrXFj8OGBO70goJA5WyMlPSlX_w5PofJs4UrVNG-ovtYk7Oabkq5KwcEXM5qdSnNVCmYZzyGXjZ4fGhZJm8ngy4JeSNSfzdwGUvBbZEBUaDOYk/s640/46f869710dc9c8f080600992e99e99b8.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When I see this, I often think to myself that it would have been better just to carry the walls around the closet up to the ceiling. Maybe the dead space could be turned into clever hidden storage accessible from the other side that would actually be useful.</td></tr>
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These seem to be have been a real trend for home-builders at one time and I see them frequently in homes that have been built in the last 20 years. Again, they can be made to look OK in a show home where there's no real people with real stuff living in them, but often they're a pain in the butt for real home-owners. Much like the alcove, the question is always what to put on them. They limit options in the space, and inevitably just get cluttered up with junk that collects dust. It<i> kills </i>me - because most often something like this is unnecessary, it takes up floor space for no real purpose, takes extra time and money to do, and a lot of time and money to<i> undo</i>. Save your money and your sanity - <b>just don't do it.</b><br />
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If you want something to decorate with - use shelves. Shelves can be nice and they give you options. If you don't like them in 5 years you can easily take them down and do something different. Built in ledges leave you stuck with only 1 option or a major renovation.<br />
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<b>5) ROUNDED DRYWALL CORNERS:</b><br />
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Again, a popular trend among home builders that is often a thorn in my side. These can add more softness and flow to a space, and are often more resistant to chipping than conventional 90* corners - however they are a pain because they again they <b>limit options</b>. How so you ask?<br />
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Well, let's say I want to use more than 1 colour on the walls in a space. Rounded exterior corners are great for flow, but not so great for separation. If I want one colour on just one side of the wall It's really hard to know how and where to divide one colour from the other on a rounded corner, whereas it is clearly defined with a 90* corner.<br />
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Unless you are a master finisher - they also make the application of trim and moldings difficult because there's no easy-to-cut right angle. This can limit you from being able to apply any kind of paneling effect that you may want to add to a space.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_0Ts12T9Ozfd5Vk0ZjW3rw4CSCaeabIQu8Sdl9O9s5j8isQnbmRhUB8ElTy4Taq9CTUp-rCyWHraMa8hLhM2DOtBNcTudN3wie_UwEdytg5KC_gj4eA3eKUwA-1lGS9Dy6GfLaxe2y4/s1600/IMG_0635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_0Ts12T9Ozfd5Vk0ZjW3rw4CSCaeabIQu8Sdl9O9s5j8isQnbmRhUB8ElTy4Taq9CTUp-rCyWHraMa8hLhM2DOtBNcTudN3wie_UwEdytg5KC_gj4eA3eKUwA-1lGS9Dy6GfLaxe2y4/s640/IMG_0635.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This just hurts me . . .</td></tr>
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There are probably a couple of other things that I could add to this list of do-nots, but these are the main 5. The trait that they all have in common is that they<b> limit the options</b> of what can be done with your space. When creating a space, I like to have as many options available to me as possible, which is why the restrictions imposed by these things bother me <i>so</i> much!<br />
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For most people, the purchase of their homes will be the biggest investment they will ever make, and I <i>hate</i> to see people spend money on things that will only be headaches for them later. I want you to <i>love</i> your home - to love being there. Avoiding these things will help!<br />
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<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-83572984953753705082015-11-26T13:24:00.003-08:002015-11-26T13:24:52.352-08:00BLACK FRIDAY SALE 2015!Over the course of the year, I manage to generate a fair amount of scrap fabric left-over from the projects I have completed. Last year I decided to whip up some quick pillow shams from this fabric and offer them to my customers as a Black Friday Sale! <br />
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It was so successful I have decided to do it again! We have $5 17x17" cotton print pillow shams again, and have added $10 cotton print Euro shams (26x26" with 2" flange)! Quantities are limited - when they're gone they're gone! Sale starts tomorrow, Friday November 27th at 9am (MST) and ends Monday, November 30th at 12am (MST). <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/metzinteriors">www.etsy.com/shop/metzinteriors</a><br />
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<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-59229039709152172732015-11-14T23:46:00.000-08:002015-11-14T23:46:03.296-08:00Something New For Christmas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I LOVE Christmas and I LOVE pretty things - so naturally Christmas decorating is something I like to do! <br />
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I had built our family's Christmas decoration collection slowly over time by adding something new to the same theme each year. Eventually after 8 years or so, I felt like I had topped out my theme, and I was tired of my decorations! For the last couple of years I have been looking for something new, but<i> nothing</i> has really grabbed me. Gradually however, I felt myself moving away from the fancy-schmancy, gold and glittering decorations to something a little more simple, clean and natural. <br />
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I fell in love with red berries and decided to make the transition last year, experimenting with some new themes and began to build a new collection - so it was perfect when I received an email this year from <a href="http://treeclassics.com/">treeclassics.com</a> asking if I would be interested in reviewing a couple of their products! I could choose a couple products that they would send to me free of charge in exchange for an honest review on my blog. Free Christmas decorations of my choice in exchange for my honest opinion? It seemed like a no-brainer. So things around my studio got a little Christmasy a little earlier this year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChvAETrphwtHYz2-XBBpUd6-Yh0iQiIgcqsWTEa538ifyXb8AleT-4S3ha37v3V7NdONDiwF0lyzK_kOf5kQkSeGh23pUWuXN6SeFpPAIxeSvfa2rqTO4sxNjAXUalC7-2mMnfC5tUzc/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChvAETrphwtHYz2-XBBpUd6-Yh0iQiIgcqsWTEa538ifyXb8AleT-4S3ha37v3V7NdONDiwF0lyzK_kOf5kQkSeGh23pUWuXN6SeFpPAIxeSvfa2rqTO4sxNjAXUalC7-2mMnfC5tUzc/s640/IMG_5462.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://treeclassics.com/">Treeclassics.com</a> specializes in beautiful <a href="http://www.treeclassics.com/Artificial-Christmas-Trees-Christmas-Tree-Shop-s/1.htm" target="_blank">artificial Christmas trees</a>, but to me it's just not Christmas without that real-tree smell, so I opted instead to review a couple of items from their other accessories.<br />
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Because I have fallen in love with red-berries and have based my new decoration collection heavily around that theme - the <a href="http://www.treeclassics.com/Classic-Cranberry-Christmas-Wreath-p/ccw-w.htm" target="_blank">Classic Cranberry Christmas Wreath</a> instantly caught my attention.<br />
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The wreath was larger than I expected, which I was quite happy about! It's simple and natural but beautiful, and aligned entirely with my new vision and direction. <br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">The cranberries on the wreath are quite realistic, which I appreciated. The twigs do seem to shed a bit when the wreath is handled - but overall I am </span><i style="text-align: start;">very</i><span style="text-align: start;"> happy with this lovely wreath!</span></div>
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The 2nd product to catch my eye was the <a href="http://www.treeclassics.com/Silver-Glass-Beaded-Finial-Set-p/4000543.htm" target="_blank">Silver Glass Beaded Finial Set</a>. In my new vision, what to do with the tree is what I have wrestled with the most. I started with clear lights and lots of berry sprigs, but after that I was getting stuck. I wanted a clean and natural look, and felt myself moving away from ribbons and garlands - but I didn't really like the pine-cone, burlap/twig ornament look either. I experimented with some "ice and snow" styled decorations, and decided I liked that much better. <br />
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I love finials because they remind me of icicles, and these elegant beauties grabbed my attention. I loved the 2 different shapes which provided some variety and thought the glass beads would catch the light from the tree in lovely ways.<br />
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These ornaments are a nice weight and quality - but I just didn't love them as much as I thought I would. That being said, I can't really put my finger on <i>why</i> exactly. I think in the end, they were just a bit chunkier than I expected, and they just didn't catch the light quite as I hoped they would, but they are still a lovely decoration that brings a little touch of fancy to my new, much more simple tree.<br />
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All in all, I was quite impressed with the products I received from <a href="http://treeclassics.com/">treeclassics.com</a>! If you're looking for something new this Christmas, check them out!<br />
<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-88922250136219469932015-08-04T10:10:00.000-07:002015-08-04T10:10:17.802-07:00Easy Upgrades That Will Transform Your BathroomA few weeks ago I was contacted by Kelsey Reaves from <a href="http://modernize.com/">Modernize.com</a> about doing a guest post. Modernize.com is where you come to get inspired, see what's possible, and connect with a professional who will make your dream home a reality! The following are ideas from <a href="http://modernize.com/">Modernize.com</a> about some easy upgrades to transform your bathroom:<br />
<br />
<br />
Bathrooms are often the last thing in your home to be updated. We tend to overlook cosmetic<br />
repairs to favor just the necessities of such a utilitarian space. The bathroom is actually a place<br />
where you will spend a lot of your time so why not make it an enjoyable experience? At<br />
Modernize, we know that the delight of an updated bathroom will not only improve your daily life<br />
but will be noticed by your guests and your family.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo-C_NKewKkhdthRwCyKSmhyWjr2sMRyv-cGapAgfyR3cXLOcul_vBQgT09lK4edZhPP6VIjI1r_DECbeK0Z2lyzwEr220bmXMGj-2E2kWcB-3L90mnA-65jhJ5MwuwraZCmWukYy1P4g/s1600/upgrades1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo-C_NKewKkhdthRwCyKSmhyWjr2sMRyv-cGapAgfyR3cXLOcul_vBQgT09lK4edZhPP6VIjI1r_DECbeK0Z2lyzwEr220bmXMGj-2E2kWcB-3L90mnA-65jhJ5MwuwraZCmWukYy1P4g/s640/upgrades1.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Via </span><a href="http://modernize.com/" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Modernize.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first place to look to upgrade is your fixtures. By changing your bathtub handles and knobs<br />
you will create an updated and clean look. Choosing deep matte brown fixtures for your tub will<br />
add a warm and cozy vibe. Make sure to match the fixtures throughout the whole bathroom to<br />
pull everything together.<br />
<br />
Cleanliness is just as important as style, take this opportunity to clean<br />
out your drains and do an overall scrub as you go. Then, set a rotating weekly schedule to keep<br />
everything clean on a regular basis. It’s much easier to perform maintenance cleaning than to<br />
deal with a bunch of grime that has built up over an extended period of time.<br />
<br />
Adding in a new paint color to your bathroom is the cheapest upgrade with the greatest effect.<br />
Choose a bright happy color to motivate you in your morning routine. Shades of yellow and<br />
green make especially good choices. You can also use a peel and stick wallpaper to take a<br />
chance with a bold pattern. Bathrooms are usually your smallest room, and it’s a place where<br />
you can take the biggest stylistic risk. With temporary wallpaper you can create an accent wall<br />
in a bold pattern. Use a navy stripes wallpaper and go for a nautical theme or baroque flowers<br />
for a classic sophistication. The possibilities are endless.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdu4nIyfvVs7SuOpzT4wv0ufUYPmY886gWJ6Y2sGyQf_X3ThaXn0_qL83VxYddWdJYzCB1m0A6o_krkLCKaoen_HrngTCjMIoj06XBSXzrLGAvckm1Kr7HpObkRqK2-WFICWtAbFRqWI/s1600/upgrades2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYdu4nIyfvVs7SuOpzT4wv0ufUYPmY886gWJ6Y2sGyQf_X3ThaXn0_qL83VxYddWdJYzCB1m0A6o_krkLCKaoen_HrngTCjMIoj06XBSXzrLGAvckm1Kr7HpObkRqK2-WFICWtAbFRqWI/s640/upgrades2.jpg" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Via </span><a href="http://modernize.com/" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Modernize.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Choose a light fixture for your bathroom that makes a splash. Incorporate bright lighting so that<br />
you can see clearly as you prep for the day. Choose lights that are bright but still calming. If you<br />
want to keep your existing lighting but hope to match them to your new fixtures just use a can of<br />
spray paint to paint your lighting to match. Simply turn off the lights and unscrew the fixture from<br />
the wall. Cover the bulb area with a plastic bag and attach it with painter’s tape at the edge.<br />
From a few feet away spray an even paint coat over the fixture. Allow it to dry for at least a day<br />
before reattaching your new lighting to the wall. It’s easy to make small updates that will make a<br />
huge difference. Many of these upgrades can be done yourself for a fun at home project.<br />
<br />
Add in a few key accessories to show off your personal style. Change out your dingy old curtain<br />
for a new one. Shower curtains get dirty so quickly, so keep an eye on the shower liner and<br />
replace them on a regular basis. Get some new accessories for your bathroom and let<br />
everything feel fresh and new. Choose toothbrush holders and soap dishes to match your<br />
fixtures. It’s a great idea to update your towels to match your new theme.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gFPNXOaQ3Qu_SqdoEHZlkoFrRbJjP4DE1kaaiZNkiST3AlqTgod1j_flS6FriDot-xgC5I-V4VbY_b2H-f7LqrWMMBl-Oc1sh-JiCHH3r-YBqjCXAG0IdiR_T1WgX7lGWGZvg6eQtIY/s1600/upgardes3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gFPNXOaQ3Qu_SqdoEHZlkoFrRbJjP4DE1kaaiZNkiST3AlqTgod1j_flS6FriDot-xgC5I-V4VbY_b2H-f7LqrWMMBl-Oc1sh-JiCHH3r-YBqjCXAG0IdiR_T1WgX7lGWGZvg6eQtIY/s640/upgardes3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Via </span><a href="http://modernize.com/" style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">Modernize.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once you’ve completed your new bathroom, you’ll be shocked by the difference it makes. Easy<br />
upgrades will make a huge change and soon you’ll love spending time in your new room. Many<br />
quick and easy DIY projects will make a big difference within your home. The bath is an easy<br />
place to get cluttered and messy with so much traffic. Don’t forget to give your old bathroom the<br />
same TLC you give to the rest of your home.<br />
<br />
- Kelsey Reaves, Modernize.comAbby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-22851346933502806622015-02-05T23:35:00.002-08:002016-11-30T10:23:33.779-08:00How to Re-Upholster Furniture with Wood Parts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It wasn't long after I tackled re-upholstering my first sofa that I wanted to try and do some other furniture pieces. I just wasn't entirely sure how to get around the exposed wood bits. With some trial and error I figured it out.<br />
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Most of the steps for re-upholstering are the same as those in my tutorial on <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2013/08/how-to-re-upholster-sofa.html" target="_blank">"How to Re-Upholster a Sofa"</a> so I won't repeat them here, just the bits that are different.<br />
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<b>STEP 1: Check and see if the wood sections detach.</b><br />
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In many cases, I have found that often the wood sections will detach from the furniture frame. They are usually held in place with wood dowels and glue.<br />
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Check the fabric to see how it is secured around the sections of exposed wood. If the fabric is secured <i><b>around </b></i>the wood with staples and piping the exposed wood is most likely permanently attached to the wood frame; however, if the fabric is secured to the frame <b><i>underneath</i></b> the exposed wood sections, those sections should come off.<br />
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<b>STEP 2: Remove the wood sections or piping.</b><br />
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<i><b>If your fabric is secured to the frame UNDERNEATH the exposed wood sections: </b></i><br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
Use a lever <i>(flat-head screw driver, butter-knife, whatever!) </i>to <b>gently</b> pry off the wood sections. They will most likely be attached to the frame with wooden dowels that insert into holes drilled into the frame. They may be glued and be somewhat stiff at first. Start small and be careful not to damage the wood (<i>you may need to wrap your lever in a piece of scrap fabric).</i><br />
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Work to remove the wood section <b>evenly</b> a little bit at a time to avoid breakage <i>(this is particularly important when working on a delicate antique)</i>. Find where the dowels are and exert more pressure there.<br />
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In some cases, wood pieces may be attached to the frame with screws. Look for any screw holes <i>(usually on the bottom)</i> - and remove the screws with a screw driver.<br />
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<i><b>If your fabric is secured to the frame AROUND the exposed wood sections: </b></i><br />
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Carefully remove the fabric around the exposed wood. It is usually finished with furniture tacks or piping/double piping. This has to come off first. Try to keep it as intact as possible so you can use it as a pattern for your new fabric. Note how the fabric and piping/tacks are attached - you will want to re-attach your new fabric/piping/tacks in the same way.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlkDN3T69oEhv9alPdYDxbP1fhdSBUM1dVIXBect7vd1MC4B5i5MBFJZQacqQihGhyphenhyphen0tPEhGEZYPk-06cjq7fjNIt0kUDgRIY2xCHmR6kAjaj1HImMoyUnJ7j8wFTgCcS89sjKaWiD70/s1600/100902S.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihlkDN3T69oEhv9alPdYDxbP1fhdSBUM1dVIXBect7vd1MC4B5i5MBFJZQacqQihGhyphenhyphen0tPEhGEZYPk-06cjq7fjNIt0kUDgRIY2xCHmR6kAjaj1HImMoyUnJ7j8wFTgCcS89sjKaWiD70/s1600/100902S.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">An example of a chair with the fabric finished around the edges of the wood with double piping. The piping is usually attached with staples that are hidden in-between the piping. Use a flat-head screwdriver or butter knife to gently pry it off.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlA7mVr4KpZMPeEV0iBQvxFBNupOwaHbuovfTLArfe8Q_2zVeQou3ZBbCz7JltZ43zwLk5ny07RGaIAdIsh14uYJV2xXZBGnjFFDlM8EmxxvDla7MLI4Ybf2nkvhUd4mBmqb13R6frOYs/s1600/b97ffce75ac4f3ff4f64d2b5cc29496e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlA7mVr4KpZMPeEV0iBQvxFBNupOwaHbuovfTLArfe8Q_2zVeQou3ZBbCz7JltZ43zwLk5ny07RGaIAdIsh14uYJV2xXZBGnjFFDlM8EmxxvDla7MLI4Ybf2nkvhUd4mBmqb13R6frOYs/s1600/b97ffce75ac4f3ff4f64d2b5cc29496e.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">An example of a chair where the edges around the wood are finished off with furniture tacks. Use a flat-head screwdriver or butter knife to gently pry it off.</span></i></td></tr>
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<b>STEP 3: Refinish wood sections (if needed)</b><br />
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See my post:<b> <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2011/06/re-uphostering-furniture-part-1.html" target="_blank">"Re-Upholstering Furniture Part 1: Refinishing Wood"</a> </b>for instructions.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmA7sTTWTwtaWfoQYkAGIYp9BW_2Rdm1GMVOz9iR70gF8FgJwo4_rzhfn7JGC4ZLLlIjGOnLE-K2AcEr2t4iqPU2Vl9hERRvhpBztlzkvFnwhohXQcw73G1Wez0xsLbWZDA4nhskXoKSQ/s1600/P1230298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmA7sTTWTwtaWfoQYkAGIYp9BW_2Rdm1GMVOz9iR70gF8FgJwo4_rzhfn7JGC4ZLLlIjGOnLE-K2AcEr2t4iqPU2Vl9hERRvhpBztlzkvFnwhohXQcw73G1Wez0xsLbWZDA4nhskXoKSQ/s1600/P1230298.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<b>STEP 4: Remove and replace fabric</b><br />
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See my post:<b> <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2013/08/how-to-re-upholster-sofa.html#uds-search-results" target="_blank">"How To Re-Upholster a Sofa"</a> </b>for instructions.<br />
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<b>STEP 5: Re-attach wood sections/piping</b><br />
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<b><i>If your wood pieces are removable:</i></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
A) To get the wood pieces to fit back on the frame you may need to scrape or sand off any old glue still attached to the wood pieces <i>(particularly on the dowels)</i>. You will also want to re-drill the holes to make sure that they are clear, cut away any fabric, and look for any staples that may get in the way of the hole.<br />
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<i>*If the dowels were damaged when you removed the wood pieces, you may need to cut them off, drill them out and insert new dowel pieces with wood glue.*</i><br />
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Do a "dry-fit" first, to ensure that your wood piece will fit back on properly - if it doesn't, repeat step 5A and keep checking until the piece fits properly.<br />
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B) Apply wood glue to the inside of the dowel holes and the dowels on the wood pieces - position the pieces and press firmly into place <i>(be careful not to drip glue on your new fabric!!!)</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGiBR0qxigNJ_R_nLZqLvIyxUFwi33dUw7B9NQ-p5XaB83KpmoY0v8yd_3iHIjMqh5fh_D7AktJEBMoiV6hvTN8UE39KciLATtM61lGBod7gY8ewVjOefEiFCWdj8MzF4qxkhmsC0Q-Tc/s1600/P1250022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGiBR0qxigNJ_R_nLZqLvIyxUFwi33dUw7B9NQ-p5XaB83KpmoY0v8yd_3iHIjMqh5fh_D7AktJEBMoiV6hvTN8UE39KciLATtM61lGBod7gY8ewVjOefEiFCWdj8MzF4qxkhmsC0Q-Tc/s1600/P1250022.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><b>If your wood pieces are not removable:</b></i><br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
Attach the fabric around the exposed wood pieces the same way the old fabric was attached. Often this is folded under, and pulled tightly around sections like these chair legs . . .<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIO0ZGHRQzJOJX5atLX1onWi0cpxGYssXv9tRC36UIQI4ChBa0zXGlcbW1iSHkhIi8wWlNW59I-mxFp3tL2DIHFAiO4_hLJzBaiJCkyNqGjl5VapJIax_JZQdzMCLBmG9jNNbfyTAPBBA/s1600/P1230742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIO0ZGHRQzJOJX5atLX1onWi0cpxGYssXv9tRC36UIQI4ChBa0zXGlcbW1iSHkhIi8wWlNW59I-mxFp3tL2DIHFAiO4_hLJzBaiJCkyNqGjl5VapJIax_JZQdzMCLBmG9jNNbfyTAPBBA/s1600/P1230742.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drape the fabric around the wood section.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ZhcMlSfl8Sq2SwS-UOdKlskcU6NxeMNUqpIkb5Hey122r5y1j301F-2rW9lnicJVcbk8PWDF1Zf8TVmK0rnSnG5vdbLii8nrubg_UdHfX8Apg2dg6bHIs4lWMUeDKNFKzRRCVpw7lLo/s1600/P1230743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ZhcMlSfl8Sq2SwS-UOdKlskcU6NxeMNUqpIkb5Hey122r5y1j301F-2rW9lnicJVcbk8PWDF1Zf8TVmK0rnSnG5vdbLii8nrubg_UdHfX8Apg2dg6bHIs4lWMUeDKNFKzRRCVpw7lLo/s1600/P1230743.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fold under and tuck in around the wood.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGojqvbch1VD1tj-WQDgvBw1hqg9B1fCQEN8n4BLesWmMgILGTyhlFbkBzj7P0VSUOc67Lsk_3nKkiaIq5e1oMu2HshGAr-dY3gBn_Ht4yoy-rXyLy_onNnSWVmA6xahzW7UOGfe1KUo/s1600/P1230744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGojqvbch1VD1tj-WQDgvBw1hqg9B1fCQEN8n4BLesWmMgILGTyhlFbkBzj7P0VSUOc67Lsk_3nKkiaIq5e1oMu2HshGAr-dY3gBn_Ht4yoy-rXyLy_onNnSWVmA6xahzW7UOGfe1KUo/s1600/P1230744.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fold the fabric edge under and pull tightly.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwsqVwYsLw-gGYxO2mJIfB__L7Mlbw70X7_YDydfibNahP5Lmd4xnQ_5edr2DUB2Ejr7VUs-agn8g3ZmcraMXaXoedCwyw60zl2pQgKxQff2h7TvdDalc7vNVFJEGAPT9ov3IaOMot2U/s1600/P1230745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijwsqVwYsLw-gGYxO2mJIfB__L7Mlbw70X7_YDydfibNahP5Lmd4xnQ_5edr2DUB2Ejr7VUs-agn8g3ZmcraMXaXoedCwyw60zl2pQgKxQff2h7TvdDalc7vNVFJEGAPT9ov3IaOMot2U/s1600/P1230745.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pull the fabric tightly around to the back of the frame.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwEO54QDf15_hVhBMiVbP9SCoxdMgF8v7V_RbMIluXmJo7eqgG5JD3BQVIfbdi8Hi-KDKBqHAoNEH5jKkWN1DHkOwMYJGQNY3HzE1nZZcJYBj25GLca6I9oEWlUfj0eOiq3HITowzb6M/s1600/P1230746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhwEO54QDf15_hVhBMiVbP9SCoxdMgF8v7V_RbMIluXmJo7eqgG5JD3BQVIfbdi8Hi-KDKBqHAoNEH5jKkWN1DHkOwMYJGQNY3HzE1nZZcJYBj25GLca6I9oEWlUfj0eOiq3HITowzb6M/s1600/P1230746.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secure the fabric to the bottom of the frame with staples.</td></tr>
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. . . or secured at the edge with staples and then finished <i>(covered)</i> with piping/double piping or furniture tacks. When using piping be sure to hide your staples in the crease of the piping so that they are not visible <i>(you may need a hammer and nail-punch to ensure that they are inset deep enough so as to not be visible). </i>When using double piping place your staples in-between the piping to hide them. When using furniture tacks - use a hammer to gently secure the tacks in place. Be careful not to accidentally damage the wood with your hammer.<br />
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<b>STEP 6: Love your "new" furniture!</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09SVvBUsUzt4Sdmfo9sNtdrsUsBgCNlJbDcF6u5QWQZ5e9c230GQOXYyxiW1_d2jw4NnDzWJ20xcVwCZ0Nf4mf7g0ljTr4FeL_uJ5MnWQu1FFUtp9O6e7T7ihkTGNKOlchEkgE9CT7M0/s1600/P1190036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09SVvBUsUzt4Sdmfo9sNtdrsUsBgCNlJbDcF6u5QWQZ5e9c230GQOXYyxiW1_d2jw4NnDzWJ20xcVwCZ0Nf4mf7g0ljTr4FeL_uJ5MnWQu1FFUtp9O6e7T7ihkTGNKOlchEkgE9CT7M0/s1600/P1190036.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><br /></b>Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-51811265934858016282014-11-24T20:36:00.003-08:002014-11-24T20:36:58.255-08:00Black Friday 2014I LOVE a great deal - so I'm super excited to be able to offer one for Black Friday this year!<br />
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-62971227028850628582014-05-13T00:21:00.002-07:002014-05-13T00:35:26.804-07:00How To Completely Transform a Bathroom in 21 Days<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFLIeMHx3Ekc2LWfo2CZqIMn28T7rJlhWol66hRK-HX7pWlC1CKBUmTs-8EVs2Urst6vQN9RCF4pHzfbib8VQw8eHPrCQpgDJLQv3k7I8z46aUQaIoFvbTXDnXtbmtmdpwALhvf9mdG4/s1600/before+&+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFLIeMHx3Ekc2LWfo2CZqIMn28T7rJlhWol66hRK-HX7pWlC1CKBUmTs-8EVs2Urst6vQN9RCF4pHzfbib8VQw8eHPrCQpgDJLQv3k7I8z46aUQaIoFvbTXDnXtbmtmdpwALhvf9mdG4/s1600/before+&+after.jpg" height="430" width="640" /></a></div>
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When we moved into our house 5 years ago, the main-floor bathroom was perhaps the most detestable space. I knew it was going to need a <i>total</i> overhaul, so I didn't bother to touch it until I could do it <i>all</i>. </div>
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I lived with this bathroom for 5 YEARS, and then the time for change finally came!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 1: Out With The Old!</span></b><br />
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We began by ripping <i>everything</i> out. We had replaced the bathtub/shower a few years earlier due to mold and water-damage issues, and then replaced the toilet for water conservation purposes a little while later, so those things stayed - but everything else had to go, and it felt <i>sooo</i> good to get rid of it all!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 2: Re-Routing The Lights</span></b><br />
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As part of my renovation plan I didn't just want to replace the old light fixture. Instead I had an entirely different lighting plan in mind that involved a fair amount of electrical work to re-route the lights from one fixture above the mirror to 2 fixtures, one on each side of the mirror. Drywall had to be cut open, studs had to be drilled through, the attic had to be crawled in, the breaker had to be replaced. It was a fair amount of work - but worth it in the end!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 3: Tape & Mud</span></b><br />
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Day 3 was about patching things back up after the lighting shift. On went the tape and first coat of mud. I have decided that mudding drywall really isn't my thing - but up to this part it's not so bad.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 4: 2nd Coat Of Mud</span></b><br />
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Here's where dry-walling and I start to fall apart. Achieving that perfect smooth look is really finicky business. This was my 2nd stab at dry-walling, and I'm not sure that I really improved much from my first attempt. Luckily my Dad was there to help me along with his skilled hands and years of experience!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 4: 3rd Coat of Mud</span> </b><br />
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Yes, we had to mud<i> again</i>. By this point I was definitely ready to move on! However, while I was waiting for all that mud to dry I got busy removing the nasty old lino. Pulling up the lino itself wasn't so bad, but scraping the paper backing off the plywood was a bit of a tedious chore. I found spraying the paper with water and then scraping it up with a putty-knife reasonably effective.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 5: Sanding and Priming</span></b><br />
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I was so happy to get to this point, but I found sanding dry-wall to be<i> another</i> total pain in the butt! What looks and feels smooth, may not actually be - and <i>every</i> flaw will be revealed once the paint goes up. My Dad taught me to hold a work light level to the wall in order to reveal the flaws that are otherwise invisible to the naked eye, then sand bumps and fill holes. It worked well - but unfortunately just revealed a whole lot more work to be done - ugh! I have learned that dry-walling is not for the faint of heart. If you have the patience for perfection, dry-walling will be your thing - if not, you may want to consider leaving it up to the professionals! <br />
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<i>Finally</i>, I could move on to priming! It was<i> so </i>exciting<i> </i>to cover up that nasty pea-soup green!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 6: Paint</span></b><br />
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Due to the absence of any kind of natural light in my bathroom and it's small size, I opted for an all-white colour scheme to lighten, brighten, and enlarge the space. This involved several coats of paint (4 in total), but each stroke took me further and further away from that <i>dreadful </i>green. It was happy work!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 7: More Paint</span></b><br />
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Once my walls went white I realized that I was going to have to paint the ceiling as well. It looked <i>so</i> dingy next to the brilliance of my freshly painted white walls! Painting ceilings is <i>not</i> my favourite activity (hard on the neck and arms), but it wasn't too bad in such a small space.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 8: In With The New!</span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHsWOwIRUUIRE1EGPBo659OvfuxPk3Ij1__A8HgLtkm-vJIzUu-tdm7WL93ZzaGykZciI78r17xcB7LvOKwCkWWLF-0DTztRKKSxUwAFuvbjdExU_-8dEk7n8DDhgcoQDgn3aFd2nV9s/s1600/P1190334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAHsWOwIRUUIRE1EGPBo659OvfuxPk3Ij1__A8HgLtkm-vJIzUu-tdm7WL93ZzaGykZciI78r17xcB7LvOKwCkWWLF-0DTztRKKSxUwAFuvbjdExU_-8dEk7n8DDhgcoQDgn3aFd2nV9s/s1600/P1190334.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/50082512/" target="_blank">"Lillholmen" lights from Ikea </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the painting completed we could start installing the new fixtures! Day 8 was about the lights (which were easy), and the bathroom fan - which was not so easy. I thought the fan would be simple to replace, but unfortunately it had to be done from the attic - which was not so fun.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 9: Floor</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwE9J-Vu7BeI1yNFdha5eA2pGiYe4XFXek-9z2HhzboaGI7WbpyczNpAw82UBEReZyRs8sYh3znHOrCEWzKmi7rbobZWeLYSpbdXa4QdM4haYd62vtQo8JoKs-x-obh-vmqCB1mPUcprk/s1600/P1190426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwE9J-Vu7BeI1yNFdha5eA2pGiYe4XFXek-9z2HhzboaGI7WbpyczNpAw82UBEReZyRs8sYh3znHOrCEWzKmi7rbobZWeLYSpbdXa4QdM4haYd62vtQo8JoKs-x-obh-vmqCB1mPUcprk/s1600/P1190426.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See: <a href="http://www.do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2014/03/how-to-install-herringbone-tile-floor.html" target="_blank">"How To Install a Herringbone Tile Floor"</a></td></tr>
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I had really fallen in love with herringbone floors and couldn't wait to try it out in my own home. It was a long, messy day of hard work - but when it was all done, I just wanted to stare at my floor and smile.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 10: More Floor</span></b><br />
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Day 10 saw my new floor grouted. Another messy, but satisfying day!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 11: Trim and Paneling</span></b><br />
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I find all-white spaces most effective when elements of texture, shape and line are added. Without these additional elements, all white can feel <i>too</i> stark, plain and frankly institutional. Paneling my walls brought all these things along with classic elegance and sophistication, and really, was quite easy to do. Day 11 was a very exciting day!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 12: Crown Moulding, and Custom Closet Door</span></b><br />
The bathroom closet I created came with an unusually sized door opening that was going to require a custom door. This was actually a lot more simple than I thought it was going to be. We framed in the door jamb, took a plain piece of white shelving material, cut it to size, added trim to the face, a couple hinges to the edge and voila! We had a new custom door, perfectly tailored to blend in with my moulding panels - LOVE!<br />
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Installing crown moulding is always a bit tricky, but it is always worth it. I could stare at it all day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkPphu0qxxxhnx1qcn82pQnM1XpGd1OmiwJnVmhtFNfPmQmyWLQTpKiMbD2fyNLlQZSgM5_qtKjMvKiUQ5gdr22yHLT2gdSnkDJMI2epxK-oc_3PN6ZLRE0V3-RZRXa1BNF5NSgjJzX8/s1600/P1190490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkPphu0qxxxhnx1qcn82pQnM1XpGd1OmiwJnVmhtFNfPmQmyWLQTpKiMbD2fyNLlQZSgM5_qtKjMvKiUQ5gdr22yHLT2gdSnkDJMI2epxK-oc_3PN6ZLRE0V3-RZRXa1BNF5NSgjJzX8/s1600/P1190490.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See: <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2013/03/cutting-and-installing-crown-molding.html" target="_blank">"Cutting and Installing Crown Moulding"</a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 13: New Vanity & Toilet Installed</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day 14: Marble Back-Splash</span></b><br />
I really wanted a marble counter top for my new bathroom vanity but I just couldn't make it fit into the budget, so instead I settled for a marble mosaic back-splash:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbdfmIGo5d6wGbjxoTWMYeF4VDSeQ7IQq78B5msYIevSL2bSJvv67KDQ8jp_AGXp-q08S9NxyLn2XhNCm3LklcwpkvSrtpSh7dFHfcLIfApzAwSYAqcBIexf6dwzzjU352DshaSxaJcE/s1600/P1190638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbdfmIGo5d6wGbjxoTWMYeF4VDSeQ7IQq78B5msYIevSL2bSJvv67KDQ8jp_AGXp-q08S9NxyLn2XhNCm3LklcwpkvSrtpSh7dFHfcLIfApzAwSYAqcBIexf6dwzzjU352DshaSxaJcE/s1600/P1190638.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See <a href="http://www.do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2014/04/diy-mosaic-back-splash.html" target="_blank">"DIY Mosaic Back-Splash"</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 15: More Trim</span></b><br />
With the back-splash installed I could finally finish off my wall panels by trimming around the vanity.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 16: Dap, Dap and More Dap</span></b><br />
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All that moulding meant a<b> LOT </b>of Dapping, not only for aesthetic reasons, but for practical ones too. With the exception of the baseboards, all of the moulding I used in my bathroom was MDF. Typically MDF doesn't do well in moist environments because it will absorb water, warp and swell. To avoid this I had to make sure that all of my moulding was sealed very, <i>very</i> well. By the end of day 13 my finger tips were raw! <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 17: More Paint</span></b><br />
With every nook and cranny filled with Dap, I could finally seal off my moulding with it's final layer of protection against moisture: 3 more coats of paint!<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 18: Mirror & Towel Hooks</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 19: Call The Plumber!</span></b><br />
We got the faucet started, but couldn't get it finished. A plumber was called and had everything working properly in less than an hour.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOvJ5f6m3wsV1e00grbm1st4XZd4seZX0dflJBpzJREfXiw2XM-Ts9ZYHnbJsyzZWyRVDVL4Db4T6eSzdvdUlJ1tides33Aoe1G01wASRSxhZ6FLGyglweumTYjX39iSKULoqeLE682E/s1600/Abby's+Bathroom28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOvJ5f6m3wsV1e00grbm1st4XZd4seZX0dflJBpzJREfXiw2XM-Ts9ZYHnbJsyzZWyRVDVL4Db4T6eSzdvdUlJ1tides33Aoe1G01wASRSxhZ6FLGyglweumTYjX39iSKULoqeLE682E/s1600/Abby's+Bathroom28.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faucet from<a href="http://www.faucetdirect.com/kingston-brass-ks298-kx-governor-widespread-bathroom-faucet-with-brass-pop-up-drain-assembly-and-metal-cross-handles/p1508871" target="_blank"> faucetdirect.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 20: Final Touches</span></b><br />
I decided to dress up my vanity by replacing the brass knobs with glass crystal. Normally, these are fairly expensive, but I found them for super cheap on <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-30mm-Zinc-Alloy-Clear-Crystal-Sparkle-Glass-Kitchen-Cabinet-Knobs-Handles-Dresser-Cupboard-Door-Knob/733380333.html" target="_blank">aliexpress.com:</a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">DAY 21: New Bathroom Bliss</span></b><br />
I just wanted to stand and stare at my beautiful new bathroom! Looking at the "before" photos it's hard to believe it is the same space!<br />
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<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-26641455333522801532014-04-08T15:36:00.002-07:002014-04-08T15:37:44.713-07:00DIY Mosaic Back-Splash<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoIeW0KkgDKHy8av0qclRNBeUy45fknrLGvWZN_sEqMflBwujmb_eahyyoWgl3KmBcV4Z4-Vx0ZYe1uFUY5Zx52kCka1TvyMVqFVLqhZWbC-rrQobZNnKILQqOwvlDwz2cZjQTzpCp7w/s1600/title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoIeW0KkgDKHy8av0qclRNBeUy45fknrLGvWZN_sEqMflBwujmb_eahyyoWgl3KmBcV4Z4-Vx0ZYe1uFUY5Zx52kCka1TvyMVqFVLqhZWbC-rrQobZNnKILQqOwvlDwz2cZjQTzpCp7w/s1600/title.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">MATERIALS:</span></b><br />
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- Enough tile mosaic for the area you are hoping to cover <i>(I used 2 ft of white marble mosiac)</i><br />
- Thin set mortar<i> (I used white) </i><br />
- Square notched mortar trowel<br />
- Putty knife<br />
- Un-sanded grout<i> (I used white)</i><br />
<i>- </i>Grout float<i> (or rubber spatula in my case)</i><br />
<i>- </i>Measuring tape and pencil<br />
- Straight edge / level<br />
- Drill with mixing attachment<br />
- Carpenter's square<br />
- Wet tile-saw<br />
- Utility knife<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">METHOD:</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b>STEP 1: Measure & Mark the Area You Want to Cover</b><br />
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Start by measuring the length and height of the area you want to cover with your mosaic <i>(in my case it was a small strip at the back of my bathroom vanity)</i>:<br />
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I used a square to draw a line on the wall marking the desired height of my mosaic on either side of my bathroom vanity, and then used a long straight-edge to draw a line connecting the two lines:<br />
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<b>STEP 2: Mark & Cut Mosaic</b><br />
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Most mosiac material will come looking something like this <i>(a bunch of small pieces of tile attached at the back by a webbing):</i><br />
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Typically they are patterned and designed to fit together, so you need to take them out of the package and fit them together like a puzzle:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDRy3YJpB-vuaDm2OHv-K8dQi7JTD0p30cN2NBlV0vhNI3UsHgqWrxIPyPZNzeaht_F6-FGoNyWV1W8S_seRriKqlQQoiMXY6sZW0hqwMn7t5ilWmBMDo7VWYMKK0dZ-Cazxt3yy1I-c/s1600/P1190524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDRy3YJpB-vuaDm2OHv-K8dQi7JTD0p30cN2NBlV0vhNI3UsHgqWrxIPyPZNzeaht_F6-FGoNyWV1W8S_seRriKqlQQoiMXY6sZW0hqwMn7t5ilWmBMDo7VWYMKK0dZ-Cazxt3yy1I-c/s1600/P1190524.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Flip the mosaic over web-side up, and use a utility knife to cut out a strip of your desired width:<br />
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Flip your mosaic back over right-side up and find where the end of your strip fits along the edge of your excess piece:<br />
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Flip the mosiac over web-side up and cut along the line where your strip fits:<br />
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Trim off excess:<br />
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Flip the mosiac right-side up and measure to see if you have enough to fit your space <i>(measure from farthest inset piece to nearest inset piece). </i> If you have enough, proceed to the next step - if you don't have enough, repeat the previous step until you do have enough.<br />
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Starting at the furthest inset piece, use a square to mark the finished edge of your mosiac:<br />
<br />
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Use a wet tile saw to cut the mosaic along your line:<br />
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Repeat on the other end.<br />
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Piece your cut mosiac together along the area you are hoping to cover to ensure that it is the right size <i>(make any necessary adjustments if it is not)</i>:<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>STEP 3: Prepare Mortar</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Using a bucket, drill and mixing attachment, mix thinset mortar according to product instructions:<br />
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Use a putty knife to evenly spread mortar on the area you want to cover with mosaic. You don't want to get the mortar<i> too</i> thick or it will squish out between the cracks of your mosaic and get really messy, but you don't want to get it<i> too</i> thin either, or your mosaic won't adhere sufficiently. I found about 1/8" - 3/16" good.<br />
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Drag a square-notched trowel across your mortared area, creating grooves in the mortar:<br />
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<br />
<b>STEP 4: Install Mosaic</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Starting at your marked edge with your first piece, place the mosaic against the mortar on the wall right-side out and press firmly in place. Check to make sure it is straight and even:<br />
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Once the first piece is secured, proceed with the 2nd piece and so on until you have reached your end mark:<br />
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I chose to cap off my mosaic with some marble edging, so once my mosiac was installed I proceeded to install the marble edging on top of my mosiac:<br />
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Run a putty knife along the edges of your mosaic to remove any excess mortar from the wall and surrounding area:<br />
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Use a damp rag to clean off any mortar on the surface of your mosaic, wall, and surrounding area <i>(remember that any mortar left will turn to cement when dry and become extremely difficult to remove, so make sure you don't have any mortar left in places where you don't want it).</i><br />
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Make any final, fine-tuned adjustments that may be necessary and leave to set according to product instructions <i>(usually 24 hours)</i>.<br />
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<b>STEP 5: Grout</b><br />
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Mix grout according to product instructions <i>(typically you will mix it, let it rest for a couple minutes and then mix it again before you use it)</i>.<br />
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I like to mask off the rough ends of my mosaic with painter's tape to help me get a clean, straight line along the edge:<br />
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Apply grout to the surface of your mosaic, filling in all of the cracks. Typically you would do this with a grout float, but because I choose a mosaic that included rough, uneven, tumbled marble pieces my surface was not entirely flat which made a typical grout float pretty useless. Instead I found an old rubber spatula to spread the grout and it worked great!<br />
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Scrape off as much excess grout as you can from off the surface of the mosaic and leave it to rest according to product instructions:<br />
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When the grout is set <i>just </i>enough <i>(not too hard, but just soft enough that you can still wipe it off with a little effort without pulling it out of the cracks)</i>, wipe the surface of the mosaic clean. If you have a smooth surfaced mosaic use a flat, small-pored sponge and a bucket of clean water for each wipe<i> (usually 3 wipe-downs is enough)</i>. In my case because of the rough, tumbled marble pieces a rag was better - however, I had to be very careful because the rag was <i>notorious</i> for pulling grout out of the cracks. After my first wipe-down, I let it rest a little longer and then gently went over each of the tumbled marble pieces with a tooth-brush to clean the grout off, and then one last final wipe.</div>
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When you are satisfied that the grout has been sufficiently cleaned off of the mosaic leave it to set according to product instructions. 7-10 days after the grout has set, go back and seal it with grout sealer. <br />
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Enjoy your new back-splash!<br />
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-44879584616099370632014-03-10T08:33:00.000-07:002014-03-19T08:02:43.943-07:00How To Install A Herringbone Tile Floor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've really fallen in love with herringbone patterned tile lately and wanted to try it out in my main-floor bathroom. I enlisted my Dad to help me give it a go. It was a lot of work and slightly more tricky than I initially imagined, but worth it in the end. I absolutely love the end result!<br />
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<b>TOOLS & MATERIALS:</b><br />
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- 24"x12" tiles <i>(enough to cover the square footage of your floor + a little extra)</i><br />
- Thinset Mortar (<i>enough to cover the square footage of your floor</i>)<br />
- Grout<br />
- 1cm square-notched trowel<br />
- Wet tile saw<br />
- Hammer<br />
- Electric screw-driver/drill & 2" construction screws<br />
- Tile float<br />
- Tile spacers<i> (I went with 1/8")</i><br />
- Putty knife<br />
- Rag & bucket<br />
- Marker <i>(we used a permanent marker)</i><br />
- Protractor<br />
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- Meter/yard stick <i>(or other long straight edge)</i><br />
- Small Square<br />
- Mixing attachment for a drill<br />
- Measuring tape<br />
- 2 Large, flat, smooth sponges<br />
- Grout sealer<br />
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<b>METHOD:</b><br />
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<b>1) Remove the old flooring to expose wood sub-flooring:</b><br />
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My bathroom floor was covered in nasty, 30 year-old vinyl. We debated whether to put the tile on top of the lino <i>(this can be done if it is stapled well to the floor)</i>, but in the end we decided to lift it up in order to make sure that the tile was well secured to the sub-floor.<br />
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Lifting the vinyl itself wasn't so bad, but scraping up the paper backing which was glued to the plywood was a bit of a laborious job. I found I was most successful when I dampened the paper using water in a spray-bottle and then scraped the moist paper off of the plywood with a putty knife.<br />
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If your sub-floor is in good shape you can proceed to step #2 - if it is damaged or rotten, you will need to replace/repair it before moving on.<br />
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<b>2) Secure the sub-floor: </b><br />
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With the old flooring removed, locate the floor joists by finding the existing screws which are securing the sub-floor to the joists. Use 2" construction screws 6" apart along the entire length of the joist to secure the sub-floor. This helps to reduce flex & movement in the floor which can cause floor tiles to crack and break once they are installed. If you are tiling a large floor you may want to consider using a tile underlay on top of the sub-floor.<br />
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<b>3) Mark tile pattern:</b><br />
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Starting in the most visible corner of the floor, lay one whole tile at a 45 degree angle <i>(use your protractor to help ensure you have your tile at a 45 degree angle)</i> and trace around it onto the floor.<br />
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Working out from this spot, continue to use your tile to trace the herringbone pattern onto the floor. Use your yard stick or other straight edge to make sure that your lines from tile to tile are in alignment with each other.<br />
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<b>4) Install tiles on floor with thinset mortar:</b><br />
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Using a stirring attachment with your drill, mix mortar according to the product instructions.<br />
<i>*Mortar is an irritant, ensure that you have proper hand, eye, and face protection when you are mixing it*</i><br />
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Use a putty knife to scoop some mortar onto the floor where you will place your first tile:<br />
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Use your putty knife to spread the mortar over the space for your first tile until it is about 1 cm thick, then use your square-notched trowel to scrape grooves into the mortar:</div>
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Place your tile face-up on top of the grooved mortar and firmly press it evenly in place. Use your putty knife to scrape any excess mortar from off the floor around the edges of the tile:</div>
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Following the pattern you traced on the sub-floor, repeat the same process with the next tile, working your way out from the corner where you started:</div>
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Insert tile spacers in between the tiles ensuring that they fit snugly:<br />
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Use a small metal square to ensure that the tiles are level with each other and the edges are flush:</div>
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If the edges are not flush, you may have to press one tile down more in order to lower it, or if that doesn't work add more mortar underneath a tile to raise it up slightly.</div>
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<i><b>*Tip*</b> When working with whole tiles I found it easiest to apply the mortar to the floor and then place the tile on top; however, when working with smaller pieces I found it easier to apply the mortar directly to the bottom of the tile and then place it on the floor. </i></div>
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<b>5) Cutting around things:</b></div>
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In order to get around round things mark the center of the round object on your tile and split the tile in two by cutting the tile along your mark:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZwzSBOO3m4VarIZGirVLCFm-J2lds9g8zCmsRGDhWc-8KhL5YzEAiqEwwN3qqVLT-9j53SIvlhV7E8C7eDQ2QNiUuBBdtOypYg-TraaRr52bmCg6_cn58Dze07SloZg0AeihNtD5YG9o/s1600/P1190359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZwzSBOO3m4VarIZGirVLCFm-J2lds9g8zCmsRGDhWc-8KhL5YzEAiqEwwN3qqVLT-9j53SIvlhV7E8C7eDQ2QNiUuBBdtOypYg-TraaRr52bmCg6_cn58Dze07SloZg0AeihNtD5YG9o/s1600/P1190359.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Make sure you use proper eye and ear protection when using a wet tile saw. They are very noisy and bits of tile can come flying out at you. Wet tile saws also tend to be a bit messy, so be sure to set it up in an appropriate area.</b></i></td></tr>
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Find a round object close to the size of the object you need to get around and use it as a tracer to mark the necessary curve onto your tile where the object will fall <i>(you could also use a compass for this if you have one that will draw a large enough circle)</i>:<br />
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Using a wet tile saw, make a cut in the center of the curve beginning at the edge of the tile and ending at the inside edge of the curve:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OCBdnEsTSyMlRwS4oPuleGQAtpJb8LQP3QX4wKUw-E5NzJVsTCADfm6aWzuXDYGCciEruJPYNBXgvMP5k_u-G_QIJQEs4CyRuSzHFJ9089ZjkUQRDmzYpXhoflNPd_J9qIaT1CF7v8E/s1600/P1190366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9OCBdnEsTSyMlRwS4oPuleGQAtpJb8LQP3QX4wKUw-E5NzJVsTCADfm6aWzuXDYGCciEruJPYNBXgvMP5k_u-G_QIJQEs4CyRuSzHFJ9089ZjkUQRDmzYpXhoflNPd_J9qIaT1CF7v8E/s1600/P1190366.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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Continue to make narrow cuts like this along the length of the curve:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZ2lh73wMs7WitQ5RU2f0eE8TZn7TDKVelqj23osMOR9WnsWu6uUafLdtz_IfrkSB68COnhvWRfD22Y7EBxYTPeCWD7zVrdmPGJdtewVVr5mqjlPywOsKE6L1Q3QGB73qD0xxO0NYaqs/s1600/P1190383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZ2lh73wMs7WitQ5RU2f0eE8TZn7TDKVelqj23osMOR9WnsWu6uUafLdtz_IfrkSB68COnhvWRfD22Y7EBxYTPeCWD7zVrdmPGJdtewVVr5mqjlPywOsKE6L1Q3QGB73qD0xxO0NYaqs/s1600/P1190383.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Cut the edges of the curve as far as you can without putting too much stress on the blade:</div>
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Take a hammer and carefully knock out the cut pieces:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnhblFKb_Yw_q4tD6mCkFjxahD5ie3WiOgNiOGQ95b0tZFJtWwq5iEeGy-34GNXyMHdHmjMCeMWrtI-jXXPjE_ttEUsKU6ZvJP-uaSC0K0N7NTcTvGRuurIWwolM-N5NI1OoX8ZYpyBw/s1600/P1190390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnhblFKb_Yw_q4tD6mCkFjxahD5ie3WiOgNiOGQ95b0tZFJtWwq5iEeGy-34GNXyMHdHmjMCeMWrtI-jXXPjE_ttEUsKU6ZvJP-uaSC0K0N7NTcTvGRuurIWwolM-N5NI1OoX8ZYpyBw/s1600/P1190390.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you end up with any stubs, use a pair of pliers to break them off:</div>
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Check the fit of your cut piece and make any adjustments if necessary:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpG4EGArdhT46mPGeM9hhx91MKkqjMxkYwJNQMSO2NbaqOcAzYC8uUgstFxuWM2oVjwRLpufpmENwDG4dR4oJPgME1LO0jNtZP0KzQG9vo6NhAL1MNRkuLRFBYSUjvBv5d5UDzvSoAqCQ/s1600/P1190398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpG4EGArdhT46mPGeM9hhx91MKkqjMxkYwJNQMSO2NbaqOcAzYC8uUgstFxuWM2oVjwRLpufpmENwDG4dR4oJPgME1LO0jNtZP0KzQG9vo6NhAL1MNRkuLRFBYSUjvBv5d5UDzvSoAqCQ/s1600/P1190398.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once the piece fits the way you want it to, use mortar to secure it in place:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw6gC74R4yxgDLxhzKIYn8P0-YYhAgG5ENgxLbdFKGPTrwWV0_jd0A-jfY5t2gX93yP6kHF69Mh1xSqDeTtTLY3vp5kbzhImscAScarPPyLxykPjimydqm_d_qmYt8XsLZ71VJd2uF60/s1600/P1190407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw6gC74R4yxgDLxhzKIYn8P0-YYhAgG5ENgxLbdFKGPTrwWV0_jd0A-jfY5t2gX93yP6kHF69Mh1xSqDeTtTLY3vp5kbzhImscAScarPPyLxykPjimydqm_d_qmYt8XsLZ71VJd2uF60/s1600/P1190407.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-uu54z9MwE3kgLFqEw5Vmd5CokraWt56UMiaN2q1y6z7qJR5Lbr6yWCa5YyXvn6H04r-A_uZLGpVlFfpB55kJ9QVJa9TVusS5nZW7mehag4xSgEYKR0eFl_n7qVQPMlZ_QJCggjiMPw/s1600/P1190408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-uu54z9MwE3kgLFqEw5Vmd5CokraWt56UMiaN2q1y6z7qJR5Lbr6yWCa5YyXvn6H04r-A_uZLGpVlFfpB55kJ9QVJa9TVusS5nZW7mehag4xSgEYKR0eFl_n7qVQPMlZ_QJCggjiMPw/s1600/P1190408.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Repeat the process for the other side using the remaining piece of tile:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dt6Uqng3N93soC3UXP22pCRN1Nqfxedl3YopNSWQdE9BaqixrSYXqDqZxfHXW6VynzKGfPLLeRl68hSKOEkffZPS7_FXxlwFSWU8uZ3GLFpZDb2TLLQnWfHt0lZq_7QemVzPh6NZ0rA/s1600/P1190412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Dt6Uqng3N93soC3UXP22pCRN1Nqfxedl3YopNSWQdE9BaqixrSYXqDqZxfHXW6VynzKGfPLLeRl68hSKOEkffZPS7_FXxlwFSWU8uZ3GLFpZDb2TLLQnWfHt0lZq_7QemVzPh6NZ0rA/s1600/P1190412.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Use this same method to get around things like this air vent - but you can omit the need for a tracer - just measure and use a straight edge to mark your tile accordingly:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOaMgvZVljq7eDntF2G61jtytTxnMGeYOCS6KiBSYyageUiIlt910dmoLQQ6Wc55FeXhd2HhsvqfGlYRyF7RoXMlvvnI7iHfdZfoiLZeiH_Xb5LezNwzxwAIjHNUsXwJnJbuv6HXpLZU/s1600/P1190414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOaMgvZVljq7eDntF2G61jtytTxnMGeYOCS6KiBSYyageUiIlt910dmoLQQ6Wc55FeXhd2HhsvqfGlYRyF7RoXMlvvnI7iHfdZfoiLZeiH_Xb5LezNwzxwAIjHNUsXwJnJbuv6HXpLZU/s1600/P1190414.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>6) Cutting angles:</b></div>
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You end up cutting<b> <i>a lot</i></b> of angled pieces with the herringbone pattern, here's how to do it:</div>
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Measure the distance from the square corners to the angled corners:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLYJBvquNU8zyYiilQgIW8CiyMy9-89JlmXRKjURN-iaDetBgKvul-QTWL2KdGhDwsE9D6HevcQq-tG-QvsOv_HbHSm1yYUd-eudTz84TuSdCfiB-Uc3ByURLrm2Qs-cOocfmUHhfgQs/s1600/P1190414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLYJBvquNU8zyYiilQgIW8CiyMy9-89JlmXRKjURN-iaDetBgKvul-QTWL2KdGhDwsE9D6HevcQq-tG-QvsOv_HbHSm1yYUd-eudTz84TuSdCfiB-Uc3ByURLrm2Qs-cOocfmUHhfgQs/s1600/P1190414.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mark the edges of a tile according to your measurements and use a straight edge to draw a line across the 2 points:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTmETPZsvisiHCK6MiCVjYf3SQATcm7QIGAhgYgtW39BomycsjmR5rG6-oV2MTLmUCf-jHKrn3dnEUSOtRbZl_zFK4CMTICz0XHXTbW-AjlX1aBRXTzH2uo-Di3Jtuap1_4l0pyoTYvs/s1600/P1190415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrTmETPZsvisiHCK6MiCVjYf3SQATcm7QIGAhgYgtW39BomycsjmR5rG6-oV2MTLmUCf-jHKrn3dnEUSOtRbZl_zFK4CMTICz0XHXTbW-AjlX1aBRXTzH2uo-Di3Jtuap1_4l0pyoTYvs/s1600/P1190415.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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You don't have to be super accurate, you do have a little bit of wiggle room here, but a good rule to always follow is <b>measure twice - cut once</b>.</div>
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We used the same method to measure and mark the bottom corner of this tile in order to get around the air vent:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj7T4X9XdisITboJiNQhmfsS1IlEDxvfBJXhpti4OZo-oKjMvMJ1lb_Sy384UFCDX5O_WNKj-VBRdeizu78NeXT5kgdXkTVKzfiaRtGo2g4pJNC2_Fs9BKzd1XLwC-teRa8hVmTJ5mNo/s1600/vent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj7T4X9XdisITboJiNQhmfsS1IlEDxvfBJXhpti4OZo-oKjMvMJ1lb_Sy384UFCDX5O_WNKj-VBRdeizu78NeXT5kgdXkTVKzfiaRtGo2g4pJNC2_Fs9BKzd1XLwC-teRa8hVmTJ5mNo/s1600/vent.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHaSviyzc19ewmwTB9F-u5jVGjG9WglED0Tf581kxdGiQ-fo1TxbEd031VWyslmybOuWi2VRrgJ8EDzSSNGDMo_foXRLJWPXpmhyphenhyphen5Hg4GlZvDiL63kEqs6lKqP66MxssjedVhkHpsc3w/s1600/P1190416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHaSviyzc19ewmwTB9F-u5jVGjG9WglED0Tf581kxdGiQ-fo1TxbEd031VWyslmybOuWi2VRrgJ8EDzSSNGDMo_foXRLJWPXpmhyphenhyphen5Hg4GlZvDiL63kEqs6lKqP66MxssjedVhkHpsc3w/s1600/P1190416.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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When cutting these long angles we found that sometimes the saw would jump at the end of the cut and end up breaking the tip of the corner off. To prevent this, we found it best to start on one end of the tile and go in about as deep as the saw blade:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6d0c0wW2HWKRdAldpLprBDPDRjskpTFPcrqUazkOOYcMfNsWWaK3EsjTLRTajrQTYsxb2B_Ny5cPYJsA7f8gNEHX9M5pYjZwuZufS3P5d2JI2JfGPZZXBfYNRoxnLg3dmw-4ju-Nlq4o/s1600/P1190418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6d0c0wW2HWKRdAldpLprBDPDRjskpTFPcrqUazkOOYcMfNsWWaK3EsjTLRTajrQTYsxb2B_Ny5cPYJsA7f8gNEHX9M5pYjZwuZufS3P5d2JI2JfGPZZXBfYNRoxnLg3dmw-4ju-Nlq4o/s1600/P1190418.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then flip the tile around and finish the cut from the other side:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3omxLPze-IUPvT05_yjm4wKk5HvtWj_dxRm4QOMuN_HlMgDwmfSgTSNlTRXDZzUDGcEtqnIFwi1PlCR7WEpF90jzW-LDEzOu6yDvA94ma1i4oxq3TPcI2fj8YYW5aEov5afucbq7VTr8/s1600/P1190421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3omxLPze-IUPvT05_yjm4wKk5HvtWj_dxRm4QOMuN_HlMgDwmfSgTSNlTRXDZzUDGcEtqnIFwi1PlCR7WEpF90jzW-LDEzOu6yDvA94ma1i4oxq3TPcI2fj8YYW5aEov5afucbq7VTr8/s1600/P1190421.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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As always, check to make sure the piece you just cut will fit properly. If it doesn't, make the necessary adjustments - if it does, secure it in place with mortar:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM6f0iHZMi690SEz9hWHqsPlqCk1-imFN1lkBh84bIroKlafiNZ9d2DQ9vsYbugVrQyH-8eThVNyCd2VFD2jOT2ywDXbxPLKWtXZ6vGm70kTe4JvX10K6E9H2k6wN2pwbP9xuzlCN0tE/s1600/P1190424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLM6f0iHZMi690SEz9hWHqsPlqCk1-imFN1lkBh84bIroKlafiNZ9d2DQ9vsYbugVrQyH-8eThVNyCd2VFD2jOT2ywDXbxPLKWtXZ6vGm70kTe4JvX10K6E9H2k6wN2pwbP9xuzlCN0tE/s1600/P1190424.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once you are finished covering the whole floor space check to ensure that everything is properly in place before the mortar sets <i>(sometimes tiles can slide around a little bit, especially when you have to step on them)</i>. </div>
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<b>7) Remove the spacers and clean off the tiles:</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WX9kJXxpj4Q-2T9DS4_RjKcwVE_ITndrqUY461cHTbJNWGMgAfcH6yd5X1jhy4frTM7DDf3bhUADeb5C5ZQiXxKZh0sMBfDor3pHaDv3mJnzFiD2LV12o1P0XAI2wNW12EwGwtEyfUM/s1600/P1190427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WX9kJXxpj4Q-2T9DS4_RjKcwVE_ITndrqUY461cHTbJNWGMgAfcH6yd5X1jhy4frTM7DDf3bhUADeb5C5ZQiXxKZh0sMBfDor3pHaDv3mJnzFiD2LV12o1P0XAI2wNW12EwGwtEyfUM/s1600/P1190427.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Leave the tiles undisturbed for about an hour, then beginning with the first tile you laid, carefully remove the plastic spacers and wipe off the tops of the tiles with a rag and bucket of water. <i><b>Any bits of mortar left on top of the tiles will harden into cement and become very difficult to remove, so now is the time to make sure the tops of the tiles are clean.</b></i></div>
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Leave the tiles undisturbed for 24 hours while the mortar sets.</div>
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<b>8) Grout:</b></div>
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Make sure the surface of your tile floor is clean before you start grouting:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRaZ7M1hQs3PCIe8gJ89ehXZ6KpAQ_EB9EUR2iPcFZh2-ANbJsUWEKgCHAdS60y14sQi5Qow7i5YMmN90LFTSQUIA6CT6DD0O1yLB2aApr2W2YrjI8AGfFaMU1jsYrXbMjBhiRW7gYxE/s1600/P1190435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRaZ7M1hQs3PCIe8gJ89ehXZ6KpAQ_EB9EUR2iPcFZh2-ANbJsUWEKgCHAdS60y14sQi5Qow7i5YMmN90LFTSQUIA6CT6DD0O1yLB2aApr2W2YrjI8AGfFaMU1jsYrXbMjBhiRW7gYxE/s1600/P1190435.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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You may also want to mask off any highly visible areas with painting tape:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkJ0pKdA79Pdal6Uiiygng6cTRF4pOuk43iw0bVtSehZ-F8QRo1h17fL60WmLvXODwp-mx7-pGfxSCC4j8rCSy-VEJf8vooO36itgNqchWqHm0JYxWXaReLZV_ZefFIlFOw7ojkES22E/s1600/P1190437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkJ0pKdA79Pdal6Uiiygng6cTRF4pOuk43iw0bVtSehZ-F8QRo1h17fL60WmLvXODwp-mx7-pGfxSCC4j8rCSy-VEJf8vooO36itgNqchWqHm0JYxWXaReLZV_ZefFIlFOw7ojkES22E/s1600/P1190437.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mix grout according to product instructions - generally you want it to have a soft, icing-like consistency. If it's too thick you will find that it's very hard to work with <i>(it will drag and pull out of the cracks in between the tiles)</i>, if this happens simply add more water and mix it up well. If it's too thin, it will be easy to work with, but could shrink and crack once it's dry. If your mix is too thin add more grout powder and mix it up well. Most grouting products suggest leaving the mix for a couple of minutes after it has initially been mixed and then mix it again before you are ready to use it.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2syOvg6iSDIB-1vsp81PYpMYL5fScoWbe_nv67_a95KapPoIwXJroUvH9_xIB6nzMPAeV9u0Lz2Didpak5rc5W4nr4GWShknB_9ylQgj_y93zv8JvMGkf2iPoQoeO5ueqtshfuiUfds/s1600/P1190436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2syOvg6iSDIB-1vsp81PYpMYL5fScoWbe_nv67_a95KapPoIwXJroUvH9_xIB6nzMPAeV9u0Lz2Didpak5rc5W4nr4GWShknB_9ylQgj_y93zv8JvMGkf2iPoQoeO5ueqtshfuiUfds/s1600/P1190436.JPG" height="480" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">*Grout is an irritant, ensure that you have proper hand, eye, and face protection when you are mixing it*</i></td></tr>
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Starting in the back corner and working your way out, glob a bit of grout mixture onto the cracks between your tiles and use a tile float to squish and smear it into the cracks:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tile float.</td></tr>
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Use the edge of the tile float to scrape away the excess grout from off the top of the tile <i>(you don't have to clean it off perfectly, but just try to get the majority of it off)</i>. Pass over the cracks at an angle.</div>
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Keep going until you have filled all the cracks in your floor. You'll want to work fairly quickly as you don't want your grout to set on you before you have finished. If you find that it starts to get thick while you're working with it, add more water and mix well. I ended up using rapid-set grout which I would<b> NOT</b> recommend, especially if you are doing this for the first time. </div>
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Once all your cracks have been filled, allow the grout to set according to your product instructions<i> (I had to wait about 20 minutes)</i>. After the designated time has passed, use a large flat sponge and a bucket of water to wipe away the excess grout from off the top of the tiles. Don't worry about getting the floor super clean with this pass <i>(there will be more to come)</i> - you are mostly just cleaning up the grout lines <i>(you want them to be straight and sharp with the corners of the tiles clearly defined). </i></div>
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The grout should be dry to the touch, but you should still be able to wipe it away with a little effort. If it's not dry to the touch - wait a little while longer before you start wiping. If it seems too hard and is not wiping off easily with the sponge you may want to try using a little bit of fine steel wool along with your sponge to help you clean up the lines.</div>
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After your first pass with the sponge, your grout lines should be clean and defined, but the tops of your tiles will still be kinda messy. Rinse out your sponge, refresh your bucket of water, and go over your floor again, rinsing your sponge often.</div>
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The second pass should clean things up a lot, but you may still find that there is a slight film on the floor when it dries. Use a<b> new</b> sponge and a clean bucket of water to go over your floor a third time, rinsing your sponge often:</div>
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Leave the grout to dry and set according to your products instructions. Seal the grout with grout sealer according to your product instructions<i> (usually 7-10 days after)</i>.</div>
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Enjoy your beautiful new floor!</div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-35686775204579993842013-12-30T11:51:00.001-08:002013-12-30T11:53:18.767-08:00My Greatest CreationIntroducing my last little one, Samuel:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfDiB1_r-OLuiJaRIjG0TGZQZhaIv_IF7dLJjB2B2_l-Qjx1h0qTy4H6JqHw8LdAcEmhuPX3XLjgj-G4GGK20jHkG3gEi6uJkc4_fS5BJkYVvqgUC_WNNZ10caDbnr_aaSQ3r3Qw8fbc/s1600/IMG_5272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfDiB1_r-OLuiJaRIjG0TGZQZhaIv_IF7dLJjB2B2_l-Qjx1h0qTy4H6JqHw8LdAcEmhuPX3XLjgj-G4GGK20jHkG3gEi6uJkc4_fS5BJkYVvqgUC_WNNZ10caDbnr_aaSQ3r3Qw8fbc/s640/IMG_5272.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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He was born nearly 2 weeks ago, and we have just been savouring every moment with him! This is my last baby, and I don't want to miss a single moment. I really believe that more than paint, or furniture, or great decor, it is the relationships that are made and the bonds that are formed within our 4 walls that make our homes beautiful, sacred places. I will be taking the next couple of months off of regular work to focus on my home and family, but will still be posting new things here as I have a couple of neglected projects around my house to finish up - and a new nursery to design! </div>
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In the meantime, there's a whole lot of this happening around here:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfacth7Rf9HMSEjwnAEHtifMOSoI2NBBirIU4wRVCvI6vUyBZJZjd8BmlauFPAdcJWeWAYpu6Ow2b7gVWqfpUsjdqnlIVjbObGsa4ojb318U8KyGYZr9vbHCUtf3dy5nQhLmwc4lIqN7c/s1600/IMG_5301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfacth7Rf9HMSEjwnAEHtifMOSoI2NBBirIU4wRVCvI6vUyBZJZjd8BmlauFPAdcJWeWAYpu6Ow2b7gVWqfpUsjdqnlIVjbObGsa4ojb318U8KyGYZr9vbHCUtf3dy5nQhLmwc4lIqN7c/s640/IMG_5301.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-68418311669552175302013-12-10T09:54:00.003-08:002013-12-10T09:55:23.224-08:00The DIYer's Christmas List<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One thing I have learned as a DIYer, is that having the right tools can make all the difference! I don't think my husband will ever forget the day that I asked for a staple-gun for Christmas. Not perfume, or clothes, or a luxurious bath set - a staple gun, and I was <i>so thrilled</i> to get it! As a DIYer, owning a few of the right tools can greatly enhance your ability to take on and complete a broader range of projects and make your life a lot easier while you're doing it. For a DIYer, getting great tools for Christmas can make you feel like a little kid again! Here's a list of my favourite and most essential tools, starting with the basics:<br />
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<b>1) SEWING MACHINE:</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU7eyIZ358QAidHtXZSxaLrQaR46B3Jra2x9tWivdbHpybUt7SFlpw0tNhq4wilfMM6__Trv2O77cBzfwfOqOnsZJw7154xIE_bAuIhUoctkbRNPbpzQ9LTkwqUcgDkJVl8iRx8NheX4/s1600/Janome-2212-Review.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU7eyIZ358QAidHtXZSxaLrQaR46B3Jra2x9tWivdbHpybUt7SFlpw0tNhq4wilfMM6__Trv2O77cBzfwfOqOnsZJw7154xIE_bAuIhUoctkbRNPbpzQ9LTkwqUcgDkJVl8iRx8NheX4/s320/Janome-2212-Review.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Owning a sewing machine and knowing how to sew will increase your ability to do amazing things in your home by about 100%. Knowing how to sew lifts the restriction of being able to decorate only with what you can find in a store. It allows you to tailor and customize the interior of your spaces without paying top price to have someone else do it - and that will make a huge difference to the look of your home! <i>(Learn how to sew with this tutorial: <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2013/01/sewing-101.html" target="_blank"><b>Sewing 101</b></a>)</i><br />
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When it comes to an appropriate sewing machine for the average DIYer I use the KISS rule <i>(Keep It Simple Stupid</i>). A basic, entry-level machine is sufficient. No need to impress with a super expensive, super complicated device. Unless your DIYer is an expert at sewing, a fancy-schmancy machine will probably just complicate things for them and make things more frustrating rather than easier.<br />
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I've owned a few basic sewing machines over the years, and have learned that not all sewing machines are created equally. Cheap machines can lead to very frustrating experiences. My favourite machine has been a simple, entry-level Janome. It cost a little more than other brands of entry-level machines, but has been worth every penny in my opinion. I would recommend Janome to anyone!<br />
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<b>2) BASIC CONSTRUCTION TOOLS:</b><br />
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You are going to need some of these guys if you hope to be able to do almost <i>anything </i>yourself. These are the essentials:<br />
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<b>- Hammer</b><br />
<b>- Measuring tape</b><br />
<b>- Level</b><br />
<b>- Square</b><br />
<b>- Drill</b><br />
<b>- Screw-driver</b><br />
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<b>A) Hammer:</b><br />
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My Dad is very picky about his hammers and has a whole list of qualifiers as to what makes a "good" hammer. I'm not quite as picky, but have learned that you don't want to cheap out. A good hammer is a lifetime tool.<br />
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<b>B) Measuring tape:</b><br />
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<b><br /></b>
A DIYer's constant companion. You will use this in almost <i>everything</i> you do. I find the longer the better.<br />
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<b>C) Level & Square:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<br />
These are tools I avoided obtaining for awhile, but soon learned are essential for accuracy and precision. I have also learned that the more accurate and precise you are - the easier your life will be, the less frustration you will encounter. Don't skip these guys!<br />
<br />
<b>D) Electric Drill & Screw-Driver:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
Again, these are basic, but indispensable tools to have. I use them on almost every single job I do.<br />
<br />
Originally I bought cordless, battery operated tools and was happy with their "go anywhere" capabilities, but frustrated when projects had to be halted because of dead batteries that needed hours to recharge. I have since learned that the "plug in" variety has it's place.<br />
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Don't forget the bits!<br />
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<br />
<br />
<b>3) ELECTRIC SANDER:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<br />
When it comes to electric sanders there is a whole pile of them <i>(rotary/belt/clamp/detail/etc)</i> and they're all useful, but I find a <b>simple palm sander</b> to be the most versatile and useful. I like the ones with a pointed tip, and recently a good friend of mine bought one like this with a ton of attachments to help reach tricky places which made me a little envious. I would also recommend getting this tool in the "plug-in" variety as opposed to cordless, as it has been my experience that palm sanders can burn through battery power like crazy.<br />
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<b>4) STAPLE GUN:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
Here it is, one of my favourite Christmas gifts! I consider my staple gun to be a cross-over tool that connects the sewing world to the construction world. If you want to do anything with upholstery or even a lot of window treatments and decorating, a staple gun is a must have. In most cases I find a light-duty staple gun is adequate for most projects, but have recently added a more heavy-duty stapler to my arsenal of tools as well for jobs where the light-duty just doesn't quite do it.<br />
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<br />
<b>BEYOND THE BASICS:</b><br />
These are the tools that are the next step up which will really increase your abilities in the world of DIY!<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>1) MITRE SAW: </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
I love this tool. I <i>love</i> this tool. This was my first power-saw and using it made me a little nervous at first, but now I don't know how I ever lived without it! If you want to do anything with construction, flooring, finishing work - a standard chop-saw is a <i>must have</i>. Like the sewing machine, you don't have to go too big and fancy - for most jobs a mid-range brand and abilities are adequate, but I have learned that it is useful to buy a saw that can cut compound angles<i> (for crown moulding and such)</i>. The only downfall with this guy is that you need a place to set it up <i>(not something that is easily stored away in a cupboard). </i> If you're ready for this it's time to set up a shop of sorts!<br />
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<br />
<b>2) SKILL SAW:</b><br />
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<br />
I don't use this nearly as much as my mitre saw, but every once in awhile it becomes necessary for wider/longer cuts that my mitre saw just can't do. It's kind of a free-hand tool which admittedly freaks me out a little bit every time I use it. Buying one that comes with a good quality, metal guide is a good idea. The next step up from this would be a table-saw, a place I haven't gone just quite yet.<br />
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<br />
<b>3) AIR-COMPRESSOR:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
This is a tool that is kind of useless on it's own, but you need it in order to operate numerous other <i>very</i> useful tools. Don't go too small with this guy. Generally the bigger the better <i>(the higher capacity the more tools you will be able to run with it)</i>, but again, you don't have to go crazy with it. A mid-range product is adequate for most things.<br />
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<br />
<b>4) PNEUMATIC (AIR) TOOLS:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
These are fun, and make life sooooo much easier!<br />
<br />
<b>A) Nail Gun:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
This is another tool that I don`t know how I did without before! I use mine mostly for finishing work <i>(trim and such), </i>and have found that a light duty gun with very small gauge nails is best. It just makes things so fast and easy! If you`re doing more construction type work, a more heavy-duty gun with larger/longer nails is good. I'm increasingly finding that it's good to have both!<br />
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<b>B) Paint Gun:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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This has been one of my favourite new toys! If you're looking to paint a lot of furniture, cabinets, or highly textured items this is such a great thing to have! It can be used with any kind of paint, makes painting fast and easy, and gives you a really smooth, professional, high quality finish. It takes a little bit of practice to master how to use it, but once you get the hang of it, it's hard to go back to painting items any other way. The main down-fall to this guy is that it also makes a heck of a mess so you'll want to use it in very well masked-off areas, or an area like a well ventilated garage or outside <i>(best really)</i>. Generally there are 2 different types: syphon feed or gravity feed. I find the syphon feed a little easier to hold and work with. <br />
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Those are my must-haves and personal favourites! What are yours? Merry Christmas and Happy DIYing!!!Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-44838733349889595382013-11-18T12:01:00.004-08:002013-11-18T12:19:47.745-08:00How To Sew A Custom Bolster-Cushion Cover <br />
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I have always found sewing anything round kind of tricky - but I've finally found a formula for sewing bolster cushion covers that works really well!<br />
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<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">TOOLS & MATERIALS:</span></b><br />
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- 1 Meter of fabric<br />
- 1 Meter of piping material <i>(I prefer to use the non-plastic type)</i><br />
- 1 bolster pillow form<br />
- 1 zipper<i> (just slightly longer than the length of your pillow form)</i><br />
- Thread<br />
- Sewing machine<br />
- Scissors<br />
- Straight pins<br />
- Iron<br />
- Seam ripper<br />
- Pencil<br />
- Carpenter's Square <i>(optional)</i><br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">METHOD:</span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>STEP 1: Measure your pillow form</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
Using a soft measuring tape, measure the length of your pillow form from seam to seam and <b>add 1" </b>onto your measurement to determine the length of the body of your pillow cover. <i>(In my case, my bolster pillow was 14" long, so with the added 1" my working measurement for the length of my pillow cover was 15")</i><br />
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Now measure the diameter <i>(length across the middle)</i> of the end of the pillow form <i>(again from seam to seam)</i> and <b>add 1" </b>onto that measurement as well. <i>(In my case the diameter of the end of my pillow form was 6", so with the added 1" my working measurement was 7").</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe5QDnACurfcJAbZPOoKgKotiuzQWkB_GYgx4Q-DucMA96Q9mYmkLYcEbrHFdrpE0-OMXwPnJeAqw-LMgQzn7GmJ2_GwCeRs7c3xCSB-32YVlQ-4JLeNrifWhq3tdru63VRyhA3nwsec/s1600/P1180072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe5QDnACurfcJAbZPOoKgKotiuzQWkB_GYgx4Q-DucMA96Q9mYmkLYcEbrHFdrpE0-OMXwPnJeAqw-LMgQzn7GmJ2_GwCeRs7c3xCSB-32YVlQ-4JLeNrifWhq3tdru63VRyhA3nwsec/s640/P1180072.JPG" width="640" /></a><i><br /></i><br />
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<br />
To find the appropriate width for the body of your cushion cover, take the diameter of the end of the pillow form + 1" <i>(in my case 7" total)</i> and multiply it by 3.14 <i>(otherwise known as Pi - who knew math had a practical application?). </i>In my case this turned out to be 19.84".<br />
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<br />
<b>STEP 2: Cut your fabric</b><br />
<br />
<b>a)</b> Cut the body of your pillow cover according to your measurements <i>(for me: 15" x 19.84")</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1pDEwuEFpBBltXUzacYiQ3us121Q-RE2BhK0xisuNsfVhSoLOQ4LMb_MGHAWB92Woi4ed8vGHpUOKjueSg0NFMlsUkcyTuNkt01DwV6mB-ryLnX3hin1VwKbjGh13kxttJyTppqfy9I/s1600/P1180073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1pDEwuEFpBBltXUzacYiQ3us121Q-RE2BhK0xisuNsfVhSoLOQ4LMb_MGHAWB92Woi4ed8vGHpUOKjueSg0NFMlsUkcyTuNkt01DwV6mB-ryLnX3hin1VwKbjGh13kxttJyTppqfy9I/s640/P1180073.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b>*Tip*</b> I have found that using a carpenter's square to help me measure and mark my fabric has provided me with greater accuracy in cutting, which helps to avoid problems later on.</i></td></tr>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>b)</b> Cut 2, 2" strips from your fabric for the piping just slightly longer than the width of your pillow body <i>(in my case I cut them about 21" long),</i> and 2 pieces of piping material the same length as the width of your pillow body (19.84" in my case).<br />
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<br />
<b>c)</b> Cut 2 circular end pieces with a diameter in accordance to the measurement of the diameter of your pillow form <b>+ 1"</b> <i>(in my case 7").</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNzXa4wuSbwNXcct-3ZP5OIEkN97WX-tIwn1n1jIXyehJSN9Rm3jgiLrpbp1JHTi07X0LiF6mH8dGi1ZjNzchX8gdT5mO6tV_YafYrr6WBvSI05Ef82zGcSFwJuTegJkjoHfqJX_Z8-c/s1600/P1180076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNzXa4wuSbwNXcct-3ZP5OIEkN97WX-tIwn1n1jIXyehJSN9Rm3jgiLrpbp1JHTi07X0LiF6mH8dGi1ZjNzchX8gdT5mO6tV_YafYrr6WBvSI05Ef82zGcSFwJuTegJkjoHfqJX_Z8-c/s640/P1180076.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b>*Tip*</b> Use a compass or perfectly round object of some kind that you can trace the circle onto your fabric and then cut it out. In my case I rummaged through my kitchen until I found a pot that I had with a 7" diameter. </i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR-kzSwRBGRA7KAiVRxusYYWL-J1fqWxBQQpLVfTDCZ6eAkmUuPsgYjpk3PWu_3-bgu_L8s4UMc0x3I5Xoc6XDUWXiG_Ia4sOlDcIA6de0NHqL9iFRrOYAoQu1noExHLPxTW5RBEvSTb0/s1600/P1180077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR-kzSwRBGRA7KAiVRxusYYWL-J1fqWxBQQpLVfTDCZ6eAkmUuPsgYjpk3PWu_3-bgu_L8s4UMc0x3I5Xoc6XDUWXiG_Ia4sOlDcIA6de0NHqL9iFRrOYAoQu1noExHLPxTW5RBEvSTb0/s640/P1180077.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is what your pieces should look like:<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>STEP 3: Install zipper</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>a)</b> Take the body of your pillow cover and fold it in half right-side to ride side along the length <i>(15" side in my case).</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<i><br /></i>
Pin along the edge and sew a basting stitch across the length with a 1/2" seam.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaY8QH3C23XY3POUdtdwTNS0FeMfjrZNKX1E7I8mExZJJ7TI_CoGJzWiJ4jGOeoPtuPHEXzpF9h4q8HIm9sIaHo-3CaSt_7fZNZdwFIOBD3jtoAyqvpsaE-5jagWSTvbOv8rUtEbbO-A/s1600/P1180081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaY8QH3C23XY3POUdtdwTNS0FeMfjrZNKX1E7I8mExZJJ7TI_CoGJzWiJ4jGOeoPtuPHEXzpF9h4q8HIm9sIaHo-3CaSt_7fZNZdwFIOBD3jtoAyqvpsaE-5jagWSTvbOv8rUtEbbO-A/s640/P1180081.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b>*Tip* </b>A basting stitch is just a temporary stitch used to hold things in place for the time being. Use the longest stitch length you have on your machine (in my case 4) and do not secure the beginning or end.</i></td></tr>
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<b>b)</b> Open the right-sides of the seam, and iron flat.<br />
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<b>c)</b> Place the zipper face down across the length of the pillow cover body with the teeth of the zipper right against the edge of the basting-stitch seam.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvJZwG_HZKu6PCukg6CJx6eJY2YgRt2ZZYm9XDAKxTRDPVki7CbClYVCPGnA9LReRPF4rWDe5Lwp5EDPCdenZSVSQTNyM7EJ3mJtHZ-cJF0amF3_cuArAqky0jlbuBBGJiuYcK9vL_yI/s1600/P1180084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvJZwG_HZKu6PCukg6CJx6eJY2YgRt2ZZYm9XDAKxTRDPVki7CbClYVCPGnA9LReRPF4rWDe5Lwp5EDPCdenZSVSQTNyM7EJ3mJtHZ-cJF0amF3_cuArAqky0jlbuBBGJiuYcK9vL_yI/s640/P1180084.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b>*Tip*</b> Leave the zipper head hanging off the edge of your fabric so it doesn't get in your way.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pin the upper edge of the zipper to the upper edge of the fabric and sew in place using a zipper-foot on your machine<i> (try to get as close to the zipper teeth with your seam as you can).</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<i><br /></i>
<br />
Pin the bottom edge of the zipper to the bottom edge of the seam<i> (make sure you don't go all the way through to the body - just get the seam) </i>and sew in place<i>.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBMDGy1IiosgwwEnL-XwCRuPx5Qoo-Ct79vEGJWGKfVB7Q2A64Ixpotr9DdnhrRxasR-VXLdopOQkVFB9-gyfmH_OaK2ec1SmSZ2C2DZEvQ78Jr-4VUuaDpQu36eMw6XvPzcJ8_-rQxU0/s1600/P1180093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBMDGy1IiosgwwEnL-XwCRuPx5Qoo-Ct79vEGJWGKfVB7Q2A64Ixpotr9DdnhrRxasR-VXLdopOQkVFB9-gyfmH_OaK2ec1SmSZ2C2DZEvQ78Jr-4VUuaDpQu36eMw6XvPzcJ8_-rQxU0/s640/P1180093.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<i><br /></i>
<b>d)</b><i> </i>Zig-zag the edges of the zipper to the edges of the fabric for extra strength.<br />
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<b>e)</b> Push the zipper-head down so that it sits about 1" away from the edge of the fabric. Secure the end of the zipper about 1/2" away from the edge of the fabric by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyP-Ad3G5g-CM_-TpfBS4rqiLkofIHEmikDQ5Q_PJ1E7HZ1JQu6_YL0f6o3BK5q0q3aMYiVr1KXPgsL_nwIV9uesSPU_7A7r71L2lQB51I5D4rhJkm9knhqKQmL_uuuixMV0umcdKIZoU/s1600/P1180094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyP-Ad3G5g-CM_-TpfBS4rqiLkofIHEmikDQ5Q_PJ1E7HZ1JQu6_YL0f6o3BK5q0q3aMYiVr1KXPgsL_nwIV9uesSPU_7A7r71L2lQB51I5D4rhJkm9knhqKQmL_uuuixMV0umcdKIZoU/s640/P1180094.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>You may need to rip a couple of the basting stitches in order to push the zipper-head down.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdurPAEIWm0v0Y8e7Cm5j8HAL05FiAEVYPemEVrtmtAcjPmxNtJ4TibaXx7gSjrkPJWkhNruSdqW6W7xdzWhwzu1W4NQ_9B2SrNUxp8IV4fIXymMp48ahwgT7BDXcYAyX6_XZEkqnXZTA/s1600/P1180097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdurPAEIWm0v0Y8e7Cm5j8HAL05FiAEVYPemEVrtmtAcjPmxNtJ4TibaXx7gSjrkPJWkhNruSdqW6W7xdzWhwzu1W4NQ_9B2SrNUxp8IV4fIXymMp48ahwgT7BDXcYAyX6_XZEkqnXZTA/s640/P1180097.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secure the end of the zipper by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYlnaEXH3QL2ysDvSFLNkFtd5SrI-6-mpqy1r6XS44rFbVRI98Fw8UoF0yt2pUVDrSugsvFM8iGLp2vNbJPRDb6G-ylzf0qnYKnBQeBvvtpuzbVb8t47wfKRAXGDdMEBdIst2A4c8BNU/s1600/P1180098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYlnaEXH3QL2ysDvSFLNkFtd5SrI-6-mpqy1r6XS44rFbVRI98Fw8UoF0yt2pUVDrSugsvFM8iGLp2vNbJPRDb6G-ylzf0qnYKnBQeBvvtpuzbVb8t47wfKRAXGDdMEBdIst2A4c8BNU/s640/P1180098.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Secure the end of the zipper in the same way.<br />
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<b>e) </b>Trim off the zipper excess and turn the pillow cover body right-side out.<br />
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Use a seam-ripper to cut the basting stitches and open the zipper. Pull out the basting stitches.<br />
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<br />
<b>STEP 4: Sew the piping</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>a)</b> Fold one end of the piping strip over about 1/2" and iron flat.<br />
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Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise <i>(right-side out)</i> and iron flat.<br />
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Open the fabric, and place the piping material inside, against the fold, starting just before the folded over edge.<br />
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Fold the fabric over the piping and pin in place as snug as possible.<br />
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Sew along the length of the piping using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as close to the piping as possible.<br />
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<b>b) </b>Trim off the raw edge of the piping, so that you have about 1/2" of fabric next to the piping. <br />
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Snip the 1/2" edge of fabric <i>(being careful not to get too close to the piping)</i> at 1cm intervals along the length of the piping.<br />
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<b>STEP 5: Sew the piping onto the end pieces</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>a) </b>Mark a starting point on the edge of your circular end pieces <i>(right-side up)</i>. Starting with the folded end of the piping, pin the piping around the outside edge of the end piece, placing the end of the piping material at the starting point marked on the end piece <i>(the empty, folded over edge should extend past the starting point)</i>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmc4yNQ6x6IU3W-LL4uL3JG6poIYi7LrPeP2IjFgeiTjYiP07CLkg-cIjWUrHkT0yX3Fkg075ZKbD2L6jh-6dBbamJryjxUMTwExEEMEYYuaYBlfzhIYid6oWvzv7e3ogtZHhFGOWLg3g/s1600/P1180124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmc4yNQ6x6IU3W-LL4uL3JG6poIYi7LrPeP2IjFgeiTjYiP07CLkg-cIjWUrHkT0yX3Fkg075ZKbD2L6jh-6dBbamJryjxUMTwExEEMEYYuaYBlfzhIYid6oWvzv7e3ogtZHhFGOWLg3g/s640/P1180124.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Starting point is placed at the first snip.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>b) </b> Trim the raw end of the piping so that it matches up to the starting point.<br />
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Tuck the raw end of the piping into the folded end of the piping and pin in place.<br />
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<br />
Sew the piping in place using a zipper-foot on your machine <i>(try to get the seam as close to the piping as possible - this can be a little tricky).</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<i><br /></i>
Repeat for the other end piece.<br />
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<br />
<b>STEP 6: Attach the end pieces to the body.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>a)</b> Place the zipper half-way down the length of the body and turn the body inside-out.<br />
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<b>b) </b>Position the end piece right-side in, and match the zipper seam on the body to the starting point on the end piece. <br />
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Pin the outside edge of the body to the outside edge of the end piece all along the circumference of the end piece. It should match up precisely<i> (this is why I find using the carpenter's square to measure and mark my fabric before I cut important)</i>.<br />
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Repeat on the other end.<br />
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Sew the ends to the body using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as tight to the piping as you possibly can.<br />
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<b>c)</b> Turn the pillow cover right-side out and check your seams along the piping. <br />
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If it's not tight enough, turn it inside out again and give it another go <i>(this can be tricky to get right tight on the first go)</i>. <br />
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When you are satisfied, zig-zag the edges for added strength.<br />
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<b>STEP 7: Stuff the pillow</b><br />
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Turn the pillow cover right-side out and hold your breath while you insert the pillow form. It should be snug, but you shouldn't have to struggle to do up the zipper. Fluff and smooth the pillow form inside the cover until you are satisfied with the shape and enjoy your new bolster pillow! <br />
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<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com71tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-14238365908313338732013-11-12T10:38:00.002-08:002013-11-18T12:20:29.213-08:00DIY Upcycled Shoe Cubby<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8X7kGQLsGtQfU0yp1_jGG7v1amn4K1KYXZMghGszeWaRB3QYiTTCz2UAM-jlQEvlfHlBqBuNv78EVt9pRGNyUP9SX6cQYFQPvDzB1Of0YfA9ToEBnrADE5GIqtXUvEvaVTqVKAOoB_4/s1600/Before+&+After.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8X7kGQLsGtQfU0yp1_jGG7v1amn4K1KYXZMghGszeWaRB3QYiTTCz2UAM-jlQEvlfHlBqBuNv78EVt9pRGNyUP9SX6cQYFQPvDzB1Of0YfA9ToEBnrADE5GIqtXUvEvaVTqVKAOoB_4/s640/Before+&+After.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_20.png" /></a></td></tr>
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I had a problem in my home. A big, practical, problem. With a family of 5 soon to be 6, we have a lot of shoes. <b>A LOT</b> of shoes, and inevitably they always ended up strewn across the floor of our small entrance-way. Even if I<i> could</i> get my kids to actually straighten them every time they came in the door, it still just looked messy and cluttered. I<i> hated</i> it.<br />
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We don`t have a closet close to the door where the mess of shoes could be stashed, and definitely no room for a beautiful mudroom complete with individual lockers and cubbies for each family member - so I had to come up with something different.<br />
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Awhile back I had purchased some used, upper kitchen cabinets off of Kijiji. The larger ones I ended up using in my<b><u><a href="http://www.do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2012/11/earth-friendly-home-studio.html" target="_blank"> studio renovation</a></u></b>, but I still had 2 small upper cabinets leftover <i>(the type you would typically find above a fridge or stove)</i>, sitting purposeless in my garage. The more I looked at them, the more I thought about my shoe problem and saw a solution.<br />
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I began the same way I did with the other cabinets I had used in my studio. I dressed up the flat doors with a little bit of trim (<i>see tutorial<b><u><a href="http://www.do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/search/label/storage" target="_blank"> HERE</a></u></b></i>), painted them out, and then added these legs from Ikea to the bottoms:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/80211923/#/00211922">http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/80211923/#/00211922</a></td></tr>
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Then I created custom cushions for the tops, tossed in a throw pillow, and <i>voila</i>! I had solved my shoe problem <i>and</i> created a little bit of seating in my entrance way!<br />
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Super easy, super effective = a super happy me!<br />
<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-51988217757342134882013-11-05T08:20:00.001-08:002013-11-18T12:21:03.953-08:00DIY Nursery in Pink & Grey<i>Awhile back I had the opportunity to design a nursery for a very dear friend's newest little girl. I came up with the design and she did the work, turning my pictures into her reality. Now, it's finally finished and I am SO EXCITED to show the world the final product! It turned out<b> so</b> very beautifully, and illustrated so well, how anyone can do this with the right direction! So often I hear from people: "That's so beautiful, but <b>I</b> could never do that." <b>Rubbish!</b> Yes you can - my friend, an ordinary mom, just proved it!</i><br />
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<i>Here is her experience with the process in her own words (photos courtesy of <b><u><a href="http://www.nicholeskeltonphotography.com/blog/" target="_blank">Nichole Skelton Photography</a></u></b>):</i><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', 'Segoe UI', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;">I love my daughter's nursery. I</span><i style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', 'Segoe UI', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;"><b> love</b></i><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', 'Segoe UI', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;"> my daughter's nursery. </span><br />
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She is my fifth child, so I've decorated four previous baby rooms. I've tried to make special and beautiful places for the little people who were coming to live in them, but for all my efforts, they were not what I hoped they would be. They weren't terrible, just not the end result that I had wished for. I had an idea of what I wanted, and jumped in and painted, papered, stenciled, and hung curtains. So why didn't I love what I'd spent my time, energy, and money on? I didn't know, but it kept happening.</div>
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<b><span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1383663720987_4127">Happily, that was not what happened this time.</span> And I know what the difference was. This time <span id="yui_3_13_0_1_1383663720987_4125">I had help. This time I had a complete vision. This time I had a </span><i>plan</i>.</b></div>
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Abby, of <a href="http://www.metzinteriors.ca/" target="_blank">Metz Interiors</a>, came over to my home, measured my daughter's room, and asked me some questions about what I was looking for in a design. What styles did I like? What kind of money was I planning to spend? Was there anything special from a grandparent or loved one I wanted to include in the room?</div>
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In other words, before a design was even started, there were some fundamental questions I'd never asked myself.</div>
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When Abby came back with the design plan, it was breathtaking, and beyond what I had hoped for. But it was completely and utterly intimidating. I would never have planned something of such scope. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Plan.</i></td></tr>
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I had done a little painting before, and can do some very basic level sewing, but this would require furniture restoration, sanding, staining, re-upholstery, some creative sewing, and power tools. Oh my. I expressed my concerns, and Abby reassured me that she had indeed kept the plan within my level of ability, and expressed her confidence in me.</div>
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So I began with what I felt least intimidated by, and began sewing. It seemed to be going well. Slowly, because of my inexperience, but well. The curtains turned out just like the design plan and the ruffled crib skirt made me giddy. </div>
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I moved on to making the decorative pillows, and that was just plain fun. By that point, I was more comfortable with my sewing, and I was able to get a little bit creative with my new skills. I was having fun. </div>
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Still intimidated by the framing and chair rail I loved, and that made the room so sophisticated, I postponed doing the walls and did some little projects: The butterfly mobile, and the rose covered lampshade. Neither were too time consuming, or expensive, or particularly difficult. But I still got to feel a sense of accomplishment as they were completed, and as each entered the room, they made it so much more feminine and beautiful.</div>
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Honestly, this is the point where I would have quit if this was just me making the room up as I went. I had matching curtains and a crib skirt, and a couple pretty touches. It is probably a step further than I would have gone, since I'd never made decorative pillows for any room, ever. And I was still scared to try the walls. I knew that this is where a chunk of my baby room budget was going to go - it was a lot of trim to buy - and if it went wrong I would hate to have wasted all that money. I'd already painted the walls grey, and they did look nice just like that. So I delayed. For months. But - here is where having a design plan made all the difference. I'd seen how great the room <i>could</i> be. I knew exactly how short of the goal I would be if I didn't do it. And I wanted the room I had seen in the pictures. I wanted it bad.</div>
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Deciding that the only way forward was to just go ahead and try, I bought my trim and jumped in. Shockingly, it wasn't that hard at all! Abby showed me how to use a mitre saw, walked me through my first few cuts, then left me to it. And I could do it! She really had kept my skill level in mind as she created the vision for the room, but she also incorporated ways for me to stretch those abilities and acquire new ones. And once I painted the trim and put the frames up on the walls, (first time using a nail gun) the room was utterly transformed. I was so proud and pleased! It was really coming together, and I was doing it!</div>
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The next thing I did was the canopy, which like the trim, had lots of glamour and looked more complicated to make than it actually was. The room was almost done.</div>
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All that was left was the furniture, which I'd been putting off because I knew it would be such a huge undertaking. My experiences with the sewing, the trim, and the canopy had taught me that I could do difficult things, even things that were unfamiliar, but somehow the furniture still seemed daunting. I had found inexpensive pieces on my local kijii listings for the chair and the dresser, but they were in pretty rough shape and needed some real TLC. I started with the chair, and it went so well, and looked so beautiful in the corner of the room, that I eagerly tackled the dresser. It was an antique from the 1930s that had been living in someone's garage for the last twenty years, and needed some repair as well as cosmetics. It was a trickier task than I had anticipated, but I found it so utterly satisfying to watch something that was old and worn, restored to it's original beauty. And when it was finished and moved back into the room, I could not stop looking at it. It was a stunning piece of furniture. The last thing to do was to sand down and stain our crib. I debated it. The chair and dresser had taught me how time consuming restoration could be, and all the spools on the crib would require individual attention and time. My little girl would be moving into a toddler bed in another six or eight months or so, so would it really be worth my time and energy? Back to the design pictures for a little motivation boost. I was too close to making those pictures a reality to quit now. I had to finish! So my babe went into a pack-and-play, the crib went into the garage, and I went back into my work clothes. And again, I was so glad I had stayed true to the plan that was designed for the room. The room was beautiful, complete, and exactly what I hoped it would be at the conclusion of all my work.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', 'Segoe UI', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;">So after five babies, I finally had a nursery that was entirely what I hoped for. Because this time I had direction, I had a plan and I had a goal. This made the difference for me because:</span><br />
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<b>* The design began by considering the function and the feeling that I wanted to get out of the room. Then the plan deliberately reflected those desires, rather than assuming they would be included in the end product.</b></div>
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<b>* Having a visual to work from not only gave me the direction of what to do, but provided me with the motivation and drive to keep going when I was running out of steam or confidence</b>.</div>
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<b>* The design plan included a much greater scope of what could be done in a room than I would have considered on my own. I would have made my own plans based on what I already knew how to do. Rather, this design plan was based on what I could do, even if I didn't yet know I could.</b></div>
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<b>* Having a design plan completed before I began working gave me a definite starting and ending point. In previous rooms I had done on my own, I would see something I liked on line, or in a friend's home, or in a magazine. I'd do that, and then not know where to go from there and the room would be stuck. Because of this, my rooms sometimes felt like they weren't quite done, or that something was missing. But with the design plan everything had been planned out to fit together to achieve one complete look.</b></div>
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My daughter's room is my favourite room in the house. It is my favourite room in <i>any</i> house, really. I am so glad that this time I got it right and worked from a plan. That this time I knew where I was going so I didn't get lost and never arrive at my destination. It is the perfect room for my little girl and I will always be glad that I put in the time and effort to get it right. </div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-73948979660882535542013-11-01T19:34:00.001-07:002013-11-18T12:21:28.233-08:00Pumpkin Week: What To Do With All Those Pumpkins?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_20.png" /></a><br /></td></tr>
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I love decorating with pumpkins in October, but I have to confess that in the past when all the fun is done, I just end up throwing them out. It has always felt like a terrible waste, so this year I thought I'd try to use them instead. Waste not - want not, right? I decided to throw a pumpkin themed dinner party!<br />
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A few months back I hosted a baby-shower to welcome a friend's baby boy into the world, and had made a burlap edged, blue chevron table runner as part of the decorations. <i> I loved it</i>. In fact, I loved it <i>so </i>much that I decided to make an orange one for October. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqI3hPOyx8rasb6AG8AHcw8AkVrD3M1nmQfMYkxoWNvpn43Gl2lTqZVV4OSPpH09B02wqp-QXTq7HaioRisSRFNyV1G6JgEcQ_GUIM0UQNx-bwhJvrG0MOJ7Su_IgQ7d4iQ5_PLUsZ0CQ/s1600/P1170627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqI3hPOyx8rasb6AG8AHcw8AkVrD3M1nmQfMYkxoWNvpn43Gl2lTqZVV4OSPpH09B02wqp-QXTq7HaioRisSRFNyV1G6JgEcQ_GUIM0UQNx-bwhJvrG0MOJ7Su_IgQ7d4iQ5_PLUsZ0CQ/s640/P1170627.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Like this? Buy it <b><u><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/167724960/burlap-edged-chevron-table-runner?ref=shop_home_active" target="_blank">HERE</a></u></b>!</i></td></tr>
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When it came to decorating the table, I played around with 2 different options. One was a simple, straight line of mini-pumpkins down the center of the table:<br />
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And then I experimented with using different levels:<br />
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Still not sure which one I like better . . .<br />
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As for the pumpkins - I decided to attempt to make my own pumpkin puree, seeing as many of my favorite pumpkin recipes use puree. Here's how you do it:<br />
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<b>1) Cut the stem off of your pumpkin and then slice it in half:</b><br />
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<b>2) Scoop out the seeds and fibres:</b><br />
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<b>3) Brush the exposed pumpkin flesh with melted butter (or olive oil): </b><br />
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<b>4) Place the halves upside down on a parchment-lined baking sheet:</b><br />
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<b>5) Roast in the oven at 375* until the flesh is easily pierced with a knife (about 1.5 hours). Let it cool:</b><br />
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<b>6) Scoop the pumpkin flesh into a blender or food processor and puree: </b><br />
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<b>7) Transfer puree to a colander lined with cheesecloth, cover with plastic wrap and allow to drain, refrigerated over-night.</b><br />
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<b>8) Squeeze out any remaining liquid and use the puree in your favourite pumpkin recipes, or freeze for later use! </b><br />
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If you have a great pumpkin recipe, I'd love to know about it! Please leave a link in the comments!<br />
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<br />Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-2160592363563828902013-10-29T23:34:00.002-07:002013-10-29T23:42:50.038-07:00Pumpkin Week: Decorating Your Mantel<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMkOa9weAI9D8wYgTSfcjjj0_MvOw3EbsKMrz6aFTKOuWM2mrsr6TJg2iMwmIsYv3CxXOmacgQ8m4m_Nwq3RAu8dawWHMLEy6jFuZilxyWP3DPOfh2NP9cByoJanNQWkTvaxT6v4IYDk/s1600/Image+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMkOa9weAI9D8wYgTSfcjjj0_MvOw3EbsKMrz6aFTKOuWM2mrsr6TJg2iMwmIsYv3CxXOmacgQ8m4m_Nwq3RAu8dawWHMLEy6jFuZilxyWP3DPOfh2NP9cByoJanNQWkTvaxT6v4IYDk/s640/Image+5.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.ca/2011/11/autumn-fires.html">http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.ca/2011/11/autumn-fires.html</a></td></tr>
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The pumpkin mantel. It is so stunning and seems so simple. How can you possibly mess this one up? Just get a bunch of small pumpkins and line them up along your mantel - right? WRONG. Like most things that are very beautiful in their simplicity, there's more going on here than immediately meets the eye.<br />
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Let's take a closer look at this brilliant pumpkin mantel found on <u><a href="http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.ca/2011/11/autumn-fires.html" target="_blank">In The Fields</a></u> and learn why it works so well by using <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2010/02/elements-and-principles-of-design.html" target="_blank">design elements and principles</a> to explain it:<br />
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<b>1) Contrast:</b><br />
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In this space, we have a white fireplace, white furniture, and white walls, with warm, natural accents (wood floor, wheat wreath, wicker basket, etc). The only real colour to be found in this space is the brilliant orange of the fire and the pumpkins on the mantel. This draws a huge amount of attention and focus to these colourful accents. They literally pop out at you like dobs of orange paint on a blank canvas. It's a lovely and effective use of contrast<i> (ie: colour vs no colour)</i> in a space.<br />
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<b>2) Placement & Proportion:</b><br />
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Note <i>where</i> the pumpkins are placed along the mantel. They <b>do not</b> extend the entire length of the mantel - they stay within the boundaries of the sconces and line up with the brick of the fireplace. Keeping your decor centralized on your mantel will keep it focused and increase it's impact.<br />
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Note <i>how</i> the pumpkins are placed along the mantel. This is not just a row of small pumpkins - we have a variety of sizes. Starting from left to right, we go from the smallest to the largest, gradually descend to small pumpkins again, then gradually ascend back up to a big one and finish off again with a small pumpkin. It's a lovely rhythmic, peak and valley arrangement with enough variety to keep things interesting, but also enough repetition and unity to keep things together. <br />
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It's also important to note that the size and form of the pumpkins used on this mantel is fabulous. They are not too big so as to over-power and crowd the mantel, but not too small either which would diminish the effect. These are not the typical mini-pumpkins commonly sold in grocery stores this time of year, they look more like small sugar pumpkins. This is important, because small sugar pumpkins and typical mini-pumpkins have totally different shapes. You can not replicate this look using mini-pumpkins.<br />
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<b>3) Shape & Line:</b><br />
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Again we find an excellent use of contrast in the form of shapes and lines. We have a lot of squares and rectangles most of which are permanent fixtures in the room, which contrast delightfully with the imported circular accents:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRx-McjzCI206C9KT7iVnu_EGat85oQjQj9up5kUNyea3u9b5ei4TtodpTt1hTYU20x6z92RqPk5RHO5XywRqNWk_qkv7Jjsyg2RRR2eiUiuDngXubWhx8d0SHIxC6EPDJITMji_IOEU/s1600/rectangles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRx-McjzCI206C9KT7iVnu_EGat85oQjQj9up5kUNyea3u9b5ei4TtodpTt1hTYU20x6z92RqPk5RHO5XywRqNWk_qkv7Jjsyg2RRR2eiUiuDngXubWhx8d0SHIxC6EPDJITMji_IOEU/s640/rectangles.jpg" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">(</i><i style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">I've just highlighted 2, but keep looking and you'll see several more)</span></i><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5wEzR93aEmPctRXqibNQIGDvr5RmuXIIvkEq5RFj-hjWCjsreFajRFpUGFpTYqNHskWtlyKbiOpwQLxZDeBzr51XmIn7vvujzNcwZaf3xaY4uDJ1DtuxhE6hYdauA_aYt_MUkXUFChs/s1600/circles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5wEzR93aEmPctRXqibNQIGDvr5RmuXIIvkEq5RFj-hjWCjsreFajRFpUGFpTYqNHskWtlyKbiOpwQLxZDeBzr51XmIn7vvujzNcwZaf3xaY4uDJ1DtuxhE6hYdauA_aYt_MUkXUFChs/s640/circles.jpg" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;">(A</i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i style="text-align: start;">gain, I've only high-lighted the most obvious circles, but keep looking and you'll see more at every level)</i></span></td></tr>
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The same factor is at play with the many permanent straight lines of the space contrasting with some imported curved lines:<br />
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Note also that each pumpkin in this arrangement has a <b>really great stem</b>. The stems form vertical lines which help to lead the eyes upward towards the wreath. Never under-estimate how much a stem adds to a pumpkin. When I shop for pumpkins, a great stem is now part of my buying criteria.<br />
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<b>4) Symmetry:</b><br />
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Another design principle well employed here is symmetry. If I were to cut a line directly down the center of this mantel, I would find that the left side is a mirror-image of the right side. Symmetry is naturally appealing to human beings. It's what we're familiar with. Our faces, our bodies have been designed symmetrically and it's how we design most of our world. Using symmetry is a sure-fire way to make things look good. The only exception to the perfect symmetry found in this space is located around the hearth. On the left we have the instruments for the fire, on the right we have the basket. The left is not a mirror-image of the right in this case, but it's still balanced - a good example of A-symmetry. Adding just a little bit of A-symmetry to this otherwise perfectly symmetrical arrangement throws in just a little more variety, but keeps everything together in a harmonious balance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmmS-483nwIF9JHoTzlexLgW3suXT1xyxOZdvkx2FW51pbHkVGTgwxqYF4iBaBmYx8fYiv5TQhqwnmAOWN7flBE1YyLmis-6uaLjEXAeVmVFTd8yeMBWNf_LcovObAvtSAGYs3uLnTGgg/s1600/symmetry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmmS-483nwIF9JHoTzlexLgW3suXT1xyxOZdvkx2FW51pbHkVGTgwxqYF4iBaBmYx8fYiv5TQhqwnmAOWN7flBE1YyLmis-6uaLjEXAeVmVFTd8yeMBWNf_LcovObAvtSAGYs3uLnTGgg/s640/symmetry.jpg" width="494" /></a></div>
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Generally speaking, whenever you are designing or decorating <i>anything,</i> achieving<b> harmony</b> is your ultimate goal. Harmony is the balance that is struck between variety and unity. Too much variety<i> (ie: too many elements that are different)</i> and your composition will seem chaotic. Too much unity <i>(ie: too many elements that are the same)</i> and your composition will feel boring and monotonous. Getting just the right balance between the 2 will fill you with glee and satisfaction!<br />
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This example is not just a bunch of small pumpkins placed along a mantel <i>(so don't be disappointed if that's what you try to do and it's just not the same!). </i>This is a masterfully composed, harmonious arrangement.<br />
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To learn more about how and why things look good - visit my post on the <a href="http://do-it-yourselfdesign.blogspot.ca/2010/02/elements-and-principles-of-design.html" target="_blank">Elements and Principles of Design.</a>Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-32704121327592631802013-10-28T22:43:00.001-07:002013-11-18T12:22:03.020-08:00Pumpkin Week: Decorating Outside<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJpAz3Ln0XN_URpqw00AAfCSL-IG49dlW322GalOzosrsZVa7FdgGsVi5KkE1JR_f0Qo3qG_BSlXXKJE3FiGchP6RygBJZAE7YXXg3Zuyr_50ro5nETFSVpD2qDS_MbHf1R6NGZ7XQHzw/s1600/P1170503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJpAz3Ln0XN_URpqw00AAfCSL-IG49dlW322GalOzosrsZVa7FdgGsVi5KkE1JR_f0Qo3qG_BSlXXKJE3FiGchP6RygBJZAE7YXXg3Zuyr_50ro5nETFSVpD2qDS_MbHf1R6NGZ7XQHzw/s640/P1170503.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_20.png" /></a></td></tr>
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Autumn is perhaps my very favourite season. It's like nature decides to throw an art show. It's classical from a distance and abstract up close. It's vibrant, radiant and packed with glorious lines, shapes, and colours! When it comes to decorating around my home's exterior in autumn, I look to nature instead of a store, and I always find everything I need. I just don't know why you'd go for something plastic, when you can use the real thing - for FREE!<br />
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I don't "clean-up" my pots and gardens right away. I let nature take it's course, and leave things where they lay - then I beef them up a little. When decorating from nature, I try to find as many different lines, shapes and colours as I can, and then bring them together into a cohesive whole.<br />
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This year, I simply beefed up the flower-box on the front of my house with leaves I found in the yard, and then plunked some pumpkins of varying sizes right on top of the whole works.<br />
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<b>Use levels! </b> Think about the space you want to decorate in terms of a <b>high</b>, <b>middle</b>, and<b> low</b> zone. Use pots, planters, or platforms and objects of varying size to fill each level of space.<br />
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Perhaps my favourite decorative piece this year was my front urns. <br />
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I took them as-is, and added a bed of dead lily-leaves from my garden, which I arranged to drape over the edge of the urn. On top of the lily-leaves I created a nest of yellow and brown leaves from the tree in my front yard. Next I made a simple, 2 pumpkin tower for each urn which I placed directly in the middle of my nest of leaves, and embellished the edge of the bottom pumpkin with some precious red leaves I managed to gather from my tiny crab-apple tree in the backyard <i>(red leaves are rare in my part of the world so I made sure to plant at least a couple red-leaved trees in my yard)</i>.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">HOW TO MAKE A PUMPKIN TOWER</span></b></div>
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<b> <i>(or snowman as my kids call it!)</i></b></div>
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<b>TOOLS & MATERIALS:</b><br />
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- Pumpkins of varying size<br />
- Hammer<br />
- Pointed screw-driver or large nail<br />
- Kitchen skewer<br />
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<b>METHOD:</b><br />
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<b>1) </b>Stack the pumpkins in their most natural position, starting with the largest on the bottom moving to the smallest on top . <i>(If you want a really straight tower, you can use a large spike to hold them together, but I liked the touch of whimsy added by a little tilt here and there). </i><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">2)</span><i style="font-weight: bold;"> </i>Use your hammer and screw-driver to punch a hole in the top of the pumpkin that will serve as your base, close to the center. Make sure that the hole punches all the way through the shell of the pumpkin into the hollow.<br />
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<b>3)</b> Taking note of the position of the pumpkins when naturally stacked, use your hammer and screw-driver or nail to punch a hole in the bottom of the 2nd pumpkin which should line up with the hole in the top of the base pumpkin.<br />
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<b>4)</b> Slide a kitchen skewer into the top of the base pumpkin through the punched hole.</div>
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<b>5)</b> Guide the top of the skewer into the hole punched in the bottom of the 2nd pumpkin.<br />
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<b>TA-DA!!!</b> <i>That's it! </i>If you plan to use more than 2 pumpkins in your tower you may want to use 2-3 skewers in your base pumpkin to make the structure more secure.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Total Cost:</span><i style="font-weight: bold;"> </i><i style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: bold;">$5 </i>(just for the pumpkins!)</div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-64375540705451070232013-10-15T11:31:00.002-07:002013-10-15T11:53:08.380-07:00Ask Abby: How To Pull Off A Shared Boy-Girl BedroomRecently I was approached by a mother of 4 year-old boy/girl twins looking for help when it came to designing their shared bedroom.<br />
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This is a tricky challenge, but certainly not impossible. When looking at a shared boy-girl space we can either take a gender neutral<i>,</i> or gender compatible approach. Here's a look at both:<br />
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<b>GENDER NEUTRAL:</b><br />
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When looking at a gender neutral design plan we are going to avoid colours and items that are easily labelled or identified as being specifically female or male in our culture. Here are 3 ways to accomplish this:<br />
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<b>1) Go Neutral:</b><br />
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In this option we are looking at a soft neutral, colour scheme, typically based in natural, earthy colour tones and hues <i>(greys, browns, tans, white, or sometimes soft blues, greens, or yellows - but be careful because these colours can end up tipping the gender scale)</i>. Here is an excellent example from <a href="http://shabbynest.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">The Shabby Nest</a>:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHJ43M7bdq4_JAdrr8u5bPfXDB1MO8KuK0F3IA9FNByJKT8ogv62ATFSrltaBD6V7lMkGs59td_MHySLbHjwAC_BOz-m0RJewjTfpqxu7Mrpi4VY0leNNYKnVK2_ZVurGHPmPerE8GC4/s1600/Neutral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNHJ43M7bdq4_JAdrr8u5bPfXDB1MO8KuK0F3IA9FNByJKT8ogv62ATFSrltaBD6V7lMkGs59td_MHySLbHjwAC_BOz-m0RJewjTfpqxu7Mrpi4VY0leNNYKnVK2_ZVurGHPmPerE8GC4/s640/Neutral.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Pros:</b><br />
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- Soft, simple, elegant and classic feel.<br />
- This option can have some longevity<i> (ie: kids will be slower to out-grow it)</i><br />
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<b>Cons:</b><br />
<br />
- Can feel bland and boring<br />
- Can feel too much like an adult space<i> (ie: doesn't accommodate kids toys and items very well - will require hidden storage)</i><br />
- Little individual representation of the occupants of the room or their personalities<i> (ie: can feel too much like a hotel room instead of a space of their own)</i><br />
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<b>2) Go Bright and Colourful:</b><br />
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I find this option works best with a more modern, contemporary style, focused on blocks of bright, bold primary colours <i>(red, blue, yellow)</i>, contrasted with lots of white <i>(this is key to pulling off this look successfully)</i>. You can also work in bold secondary colours like orange, green, and purple - but be careful that the colours which could tip the gender scale like blue and purple are held in balance with the rest. Here`s a great example from <a href="http://exool.com/pleasing-kids-bedroom-ideas/" target="_blank">exool.com</a>:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKPPrURjbHg4PfR3z8kW1JzIniZzyneZ8q2kMbeYFqprP6Wib20xoGFlLpnKe_gf1p57L6-S5JTHj8xBAWaErENgiUj_9FQTD1t3CNrNYGdNFGL4In-WWJyUvZpYUFMwNq0w6_yUfr5I/s1600/primary-colors-bedroom+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKPPrURjbHg4PfR3z8kW1JzIniZzyneZ8q2kMbeYFqprP6Wib20xoGFlLpnKe_gf1p57L6-S5JTHj8xBAWaErENgiUj_9FQTD1t3CNrNYGdNFGL4In-WWJyUvZpYUFMwNq0w6_yUfr5I/s640/primary-colors-bedroom+(1).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Pros:</b><br />
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- Bright and fun<br />
- Expressive and child-like<br />
- Works for younger and older children<br />
- Easily accommodates kids' toys and items<br />
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<b>Cons:</b><br />
<br />
- Can be too bold / overpowering<br />
- Too busy / over-stimulating<br />
- Doesn't work well in a small space <i>(bold colours can make a small space feel smaller)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i><br /></i>
<b>3) Go With a Theme:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
The next option is to run with a gender-neutral theme. This can be based off of a favourite children's book, or taken from something in nature, etc. To pull this off, you'll want to be careful not to get too carried away so that the room feels too cluttered. Here is a really fun example from<a href="http://www.kidspacestuff.com/blog/2011/12/kids-bedrooms-theme-theme/" target="_blank"> kidspacestuff.com:</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_lDczx9Eh4ydu7F6_KSApDKIoJK2YrUVp2aqTh9Sc42FX4PFU2lUyCGXwuPlCR8C5fK6w5wDT3jQruWNCiMD_yiDqmcE7x_TD5SxyetkZwbZE-7_IKPb5Rw2SwLrb1zgJOpsqOmueyk/s1600/Themed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_lDczx9Eh4ydu7F6_KSApDKIoJK2YrUVp2aqTh9Sc42FX4PFU2lUyCGXwuPlCR8C5fK6w5wDT3jQruWNCiMD_yiDqmcE7x_TD5SxyetkZwbZE-7_IKPb5Rw2SwLrb1zgJOpsqOmueyk/s640/Themed.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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<b>Pros:</b><br />
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- Really fun and imaginative<br />
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<b>Cons:</b><br />
<br />
- Can be difficult/expensive to find or create pieces to fit the theme<br />
- Easily and quickly outgrown<i> (really only works for younger children)</i><br />
- Sometimes difficult to find a theme that is acceptable to both kids<br />
- Can feel too busy/cluttered<br />
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<b>GENDER COMPATIBLE:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83rDEdxZehAIwRY0D9tuQ1kgYbD9aFsXckahV-N-3Hv3PBihtduPCM5zlRJfhg6EQrr1sMjMUjTI_wpQzzLnem3qMzkatD6JEYtOuViY-ZQaaF9m4hw241uKQN6Lo0_dMJxXdKh1Ds58/s1600/Brooke-Burke-Gender-Neutral-Shared-Nursery-Peek-a-Celebrity-Baby-rooms-Design-from-HGTV-Project-Nursery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83rDEdxZehAIwRY0D9tuQ1kgYbD9aFsXckahV-N-3Hv3PBihtduPCM5zlRJfhg6EQrr1sMjMUjTI_wpQzzLnem3qMzkatD6JEYtOuViY-ZQaaF9m4hw241uKQN6Lo0_dMJxXdKh1Ds58/s640/Brooke-Burke-Gender-Neutral-Shared-Nursery-Peek-a-Celebrity-Baby-rooms-Design-from-HGTV-Project-Nursery.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gender compatible nursery by Nursery Courture</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This can be a little more tricky to pull off successfully, but is generally my favourite option to work with because it acknowledges the individual differences between the kids, but still pulls them together into a harmonious whole. Here we don't avoid colours or items that are easily labelled or identified as being specifically female or male in our culture, but we make them work together.<br />
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My favourite way to go about this is to start with a neutral colour slate, and then bring in gender specific colours and items in the form of identical or asymmetrical accents in equal proportion. This creates a very "his" and "her" feel that still works together in the context of a unified space.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UAIeDoC-7KMoR45XIuxe-d9U3lIwTqgxhjLaOGq_aaNNHxl9IbO1MwD9wpW2ep-l7287-yXGV3-26Q9NaUGdqPcXDFFsMkiMICO6RAgMqRUo4RV95eSXlV14mtDL0Thdf830FJvuP_8/s1600/029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5UAIeDoC-7KMoR45XIuxe-d9U3lIwTqgxhjLaOGq_aaNNHxl9IbO1MwD9wpW2ep-l7287-yXGV3-26Q9NaUGdqPcXDFFsMkiMICO6RAgMqRUo4RV95eSXlV14mtDL0Thdf830FJvuP_8/s640/029.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The mother of the twins who approached me had already purchased furniture in a natural wood that she did not want to change - so I used this to dictate my colour palette. I chose to compliment the soft wood with a soft colour palette, using a subtle warm grey as my neutral base<i> (if the furniture was white, I may have considered a more bold colour palette)</i>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAoJX6wghS-hkbKGZ_QVSRQ9trCorlK3NsdOfm9nzqmvxkV_iAF3EYx5r89-4hEOi-V1C2jemCg1tH0r_zH7ddJqn0GSTpLaPqytOtRzHQciah4mPfGZGKbqLUwnzFteRfTuhj4D_JTs/s1600/4731242492_ba11bf54f1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAoJX6wghS-hkbKGZ_QVSRQ9trCorlK3NsdOfm9nzqmvxkV_iAF3EYx5r89-4hEOi-V1C2jemCg1tH0r_zH7ddJqn0GSTpLaPqytOtRzHQciah4mPfGZGKbqLUwnzFteRfTuhj4D_JTs/s400/4731242492_ba11bf54f1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Neutral base colour</i></td></tr>
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Next I used very traditional and classic accent colours in the form of soft pink for her, and soft blue for him. My decision to do this was for fairly practical reasons. The traditional colours of pink and blue were easily agreeable to both the little girl and boy who would be sharing this space, it easily separated "his" from "hers," and I knew it would be much easier to find identical, but contrasting fabric for accents in these colours. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD64tyE8Tkq9wahznjaeFgZJHmS-AE892VDbNm0cOVBpngHDH-MTCMlteyYSfW-sDzLKS0AsbqMKvdpCzTIt-ZAC3JrHfPToOjLiP_H-nOw3hn438uwoxLRbwZ89e023qVwI4JicWXBqo/s1600/fabric+sample+sheet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD64tyE8Tkq9wahznjaeFgZJHmS-AE892VDbNm0cOVBpngHDH-MTCMlteyYSfW-sDzLKS0AsbqMKvdpCzTIt-ZAC3JrHfPToOjLiP_H-nOw3hn438uwoxLRbwZ89e023qVwI4JicWXBqo/s640/fabric+sample+sheet.jpg" width="494" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Accent fabric</i></td></tr>
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I changed the furniture placement to more clearly define "his" and "her" sides of the room, and then created a more or less symmetrical arrangement of the accent colours and items on each side of the room <i>(ie: each side of the room became a mirror-image of the other, but his side was blue, and her side was pink).</i><br />
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To leave room for more expression of each child's uniqueness and individuality I placed identical frames in identical collage arrangements on both of their walls <i>(creating unity)</i>, but suggested using them to frame unique and individual pieces of art, photos, and lists or depictions of each child's favourite things <i>(creating variety and individual expression)</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7FrwwIk8C5cae8Zw27-wmWqv0KMcoUjI543TtOYS5dOt7olODFw_wKMZ_xQP3DPnRf3KIFjHJPoufMrclqWTfEqYf5463rSVqXZvevbRO5zgm2Jy4Wea5amRef_DOyK7Fy_RLFQVbBo/s1600/017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ7FrwwIk8C5cae8Zw27-wmWqv0KMcoUjI543TtOYS5dOt7olODFw_wKMZ_xQP3DPnRf3KIFjHJPoufMrclqWTfEqYf5463rSVqXZvevbRO5zgm2Jy4Wea5amRef_DOyK7Fy_RLFQVbBo/s640/017.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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To tie the 2 sides of the room together I designed flag banners with the fabrics from each side of the room that met in the middle, using fabric with the common, neutral grey base colour continuously throughout the banner to provide consistency and unity.<br />
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While all the other options can work, and can work well, I like this arrangement, because it gives us the best of everything. We get the soft, classic feel of the neutral colour scheme, the colour and variety of the colourful option <i>(without the boldness)</i>, the unity of using traditional gender specific colours as a theme, and the allowance and accommodation of individual expression and uniqueness in the decorative accents.<br />
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Stay posted for the "After" pictures coming soon! Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-4819583024500989552013-10-03T09:29:00.001-07:002013-10-03T09:29:27.947-07:005 Neat Holiday Decorating Ideas For Fall<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hello everyone, I am Eva from <a href="http://www.homedecorbyeva.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Home Decor</a> and glad to be here at DIY Design to share some of my ideas for Fall/Autumn Decor. I have included some easy to do decor for the holiday season for all those in the festive spirit yet not wanting to start something which they will be unable to finish in time. Abby was kind enough to guide me through this post and I really hope you enjoy my ideas and try them out! Do visit my blog for more DIY's, tips and crafty stuff :)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">xoxo</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Eva</span></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>5 Neat Holiday Decorating Ideas for Fall:</b></span></div>
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With such fun holidays approaching, it’s hard to resist the temptation to do a little makeover in the house to set the right mood for each occasion. Guests and your kids will certainly love it if they see some imagination behind it.<br />
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Luckily, Halloween inspires imagination even in the not so creative among us. There are so many things we can do inside a home for this fun holiday: hand-painted spiders and black cats on walls, ghosts made out of white sheets in a corner, pillows with horror movie prints, etc.<br />
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<b>1) Horror Pillows:</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVvL8mQJPi2l02mjGbozuSj6DYkMuUd0p5zgXryjLthGthHSGP2RY96jM-A0M209AR_H0Hxo5FWJ4RugcKp8e96IbFD6WphyphenhyphenzXfP09EAUOfCkpZFAf0Er9E5D_-7bFCrE4hBs8brYRAg/s1600/Image+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhVvL8mQJPi2l02mjGbozuSj6DYkMuUd0p5zgXryjLthGthHSGP2RY96jM-A0M209AR_H0Hxo5FWJ4RugcKp8e96IbFD6WphyphenhyphenzXfP09EAUOfCkpZFAf0Er9E5D_-7bFCrE4hBs8brYRAg/s640/Image+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; text-align: start;"> </span><a href="http://img0.etsystatic.com/006/0/5956356/il_fullxfull.357716008_ar0z.jpg?ref=l2" style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; text-align: start;" target="_blank">http://img0.etsystatic.com/<wbr></wbr>006/0/5956356/il_fullxfull.<wbr></wbr>357716008_ar0z.jpg?ref=l2</a></td></tr>
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These are effective and very easy to make. All you need is a white pillow and an image you want printed on it: vampire, zombie, Frankenstein, or any other scary figure. You can either have it made in a professional print shop, or you can paint the image yourself using fabric paint.<br />
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<b>2) Pumpkins:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3QOynd4H72uFZ2kKjJdinnDLllB0jdbwfSOhhyphenhyphenv9w2YUBP5RHFIT10oFulVIfhhYIECNxnqAdWL5nLrLFmRTweeBi1T2_jWCI1MoBqdD0qNWoAxqX_UTrVs93p3_PHPRe2jQxWKrITs/s1600/Image+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3QOynd4H72uFZ2kKjJdinnDLllB0jdbwfSOhhyphenhyphenv9w2YUBP5RHFIT10oFulVIfhhYIECNxnqAdWL5nLrLFmRTweeBi1T2_jWCI1MoBqdD0qNWoAxqX_UTrVs93p3_PHPRe2jQxWKrITs/s640/Image+2.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; text-align: start;">: </span><a href="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/6c/5f/6a/6c5f6a3960338f5f57c2cd84da26d099.jpg" style="background-color: white; color: #1155cc; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; text-align: start;" target="_blank">http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.<wbr></wbr>com/736x/6c/5f/6a/<wbr></wbr>6c5f6a3960338f5f57c2cd84da26d0<wbr></wbr>99.jpg</a></td></tr>
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Pumpkins are something Halloween can’t do without. Again, there’s so much room for creativity. Your pumpkins can be classically scary, or you can invent new ways to paint and carve them. If you like color inspired decor, you will want to see <a href="http://www.spaldingbulb.co.uk/product/ornamental-pumpkins-mixed/p_JM?utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchantcenter&utm_campaign=googlemerchantcenter&channel_code=735&product_code=66400536&gclid=CP-ngdf71rkCFQtY3godIHwAsg" target="_blank">Ornament Pumpkins</a>, and they really brighten up a room. Why not go for a mix of the cute and the morbid? You’d need some black and white paint, a ribbon and a spider bought for a dollar or two.<br />
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<b>3) Make It Simple:</b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyyBxSpcOyUfX0KVcd9ev8TpAYCbfz-3mP2YivK9lJgRdmoNeqT6wZiIX90NQe2awWEiVhH8m300P6PRrqI9it8_GgNzKLx_Pb-aRHY4e35Vdc08RvG1cZuxuKd9b4HXxqC0PAVdwAIw/s1600/Img_003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyyBxSpcOyUfX0KVcd9ev8TpAYCbfz-3mP2YivK9lJgRdmoNeqT6wZiIX90NQe2awWEiVhH8m300P6PRrqI9it8_GgNzKLx_Pb-aRHY4e35Vdc08RvG1cZuxuKd9b4HXxqC0PAVdwAIw/s640/Img_003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.homedecorbyeva.blogspot.ca/">http://www.homedecorbyeva.blogspot.ca/</a></td></tr>
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If you live in a peaceful, simplistically decorated home and scary Halloween trinkets simply do not go with your classy furniture and minimalistic décor, there are ways to only hint at this fun holiday. I have decided to use a simple mirror I found at <a href="http://www.shop4furniture.net/BedroomFurniture/39/Mirrors.html" target="_blank">Shop4Furniture</a> and then decorate it with leaves and burlap! Here is a sneak peak of my fall décor for you:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5bS519ou_y6JKh-Y9kqHHZzck5s209Y_7m-cqzIyk44s5mcu-P-gixA0xEH65_JfsD-iJxsewVizqq80_lJQJIiNm1hfA6BojMY96gD_hyphenhyphenP5tPt0sJpFFh1B8zblfG98ouoPRVwrCsc/s1600/Img_004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5bS519ou_y6JKh-Y9kqHHZzck5s209Y_7m-cqzIyk44s5mcu-P-gixA0xEH65_JfsD-iJxsewVizqq80_lJQJIiNm1hfA6BojMY96gD_hyphenhyphenP5tPt0sJpFFh1B8zblfG98ouoPRVwrCsc/s640/Img_004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.homedecorbyeva.blogspot.ca/">http://www.homedecorbyeva.blogspot.ca/</a></td></tr>
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Also, pumpkins are probably the most characteristic for this occasion, so why not do something like this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1xf4mP-h9McfOwUw41MNU-4HAqaNgT7sXVuhTQPEYxgelyVam4DEyhwGFEUuaVNOdMfUAvehocpkwEA0W8MFWpAm6Zwq84Ee2zaJIVGBbNapCaCgJZ1oGwkN2d3vzAO4gge8DXjUaBU/s1600/Image+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1xf4mP-h9McfOwUw41MNU-4HAqaNgT7sXVuhTQPEYxgelyVam4DEyhwGFEUuaVNOdMfUAvehocpkwEA0W8MFWpAm6Zwq84Ee2zaJIVGBbNapCaCgJZ1oGwkN2d3vzAO4gge8DXjUaBU/s640/Image+5.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.ca/">http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.ca/</a></td></tr>
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<b>4) Family Photos:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQxtiZ08dmMOeoyD_ZPR992y-RwXfa30ST8sjYdWIZXmME-uEAsMdjiRLz9PbFty761vzPoyvyejyunJ8ImCDSi37L7cRmmJZhvTRq39Fu2Ab3QW-ZQH6cjNJi5gtCMPRf6moI9Elh6kU/s1600/Image+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQxtiZ08dmMOeoyD_ZPR992y-RwXfa30ST8sjYdWIZXmME-uEAsMdjiRLz9PbFty761vzPoyvyejyunJ8ImCDSi37L7cRmmJZhvTRq39Fu2Ab3QW-ZQH6cjNJi5gtCMPRf6moI9Elh6kU/s640/Image+6.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo via<span style="font-size: small;">: <a href="http://ruffledblog.com/">ruffledblog.com</a></span></td></tr>
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Thanksgiving is more about ways to set a dinner table than decorating any other place in your home. So, make that table lively, festive and joyful. Make your family and friends feel like they never want to get up and leave. One very original idea I came across is: dinner table set with old family photos. That’s certainly a way to get your family nostalgic and set the right tone for the occasion. You will have much to talk and laugh about, re-living the precious moments of the past and of course brush up on your family history as well.<br />
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<b>5) Small Details:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlQhOoeTYpHjqW3XgUWkje9a6s1kOcbt84yodTkcZvjjBYYS1cSLrKU3la-ymqBPlD9XxKHKhcHfgfOzAc0MTY3WfH9qBjDAB-KqisMlFTpq4VQYFBWJtXQ0dtjy2rii169QnQOj646Y/s1600/Image+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlQhOoeTYpHjqW3XgUWkje9a6s1kOcbt84yodTkcZvjjBYYS1cSLrKU3la-ymqBPlD9XxKHKhcHfgfOzAc0MTY3WfH9qBjDAB-KqisMlFTpq4VQYFBWJtXQ0dtjy2rii169QnQOj646Y/s640/Image+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo via: <a href="http://savingnaturally.com/">savingnaturally.com</a></td></tr>
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Again, if you want to do it in style, synchronize your dinner table decoration with your furniture. Colourful, “loud” ideas don’t go well with modern, minimalist homes, but they would do well with warm spaces with lots of wooden furniture, fluffy pillows, books and small details. Speaking of details, even the smallest ones can transform your home into something different and wonderful.<br />
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Happy Holidays to you all, I hope everyone has a great time decorating and celebrating these beautiful moments; because after all they come once a year!Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420948346942357701.post-41595278163779758492013-09-10T10:04:00.001-07:002013-11-18T12:22:32.646-08:00How To Replace Interior Doors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBL0XbPdsLm34IIbkcPX5pVNcWn2FUlmZF2VCv4aa87zGA2rMPzO7DoF93uQ-13Rr644pX5sLwDlr1f3e1u0GFu-S9-l2MJP9ngHKq0xxzMvIWZusaSsw9Wrjnfigde9H-fgu4GdrIkAk/s1600/doors+-+before+&+after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="590" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBL0XbPdsLm34IIbkcPX5pVNcWn2FUlmZF2VCv4aa87zGA2rMPzO7DoF93uQ-13Rr644pX5sLwDlr1f3e1u0GFu-S9-l2MJP9ngHKq0xxzMvIWZusaSsw9Wrjnfigde9H-fgu4GdrIkAk/s640/doors+-+before+&+after.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1390129995"></span>Looking for an instant home update? Replace your interior doors! Next to replacing flooring, there's nothing that can up-date an out-dated home so quickly and effectively as replacing your interior doors. It can be a little tricky, and requires a little skill in order to do-it-yourself. I had been waiting to replace the interior doors in my home since the day we moved in, but I knew that it could be a some-what finicky business, and was a little intimidated to take it on by myself. So naturally, I called in the ultimate DIYer, my Dad - not to do it for me, but to walk me through the process so I could learn how to do it on my own <i>(and of course, I recorded every step for anyone else looking to learn how to do the same!). </i>Ah, some girls get excited about shopping for shoes, but me, I get excited about learning how to use power-tools!<br />
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<b>TOOLS & MATERIALS:</b><br />
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- New interior door the same size <i>(length, width, depth</i>) as your old one<br />
- New interior door knob <i>(opt)</i><br />
- Drill<br />
- Door-knob installation kit with appropriate hole-saws<br />
- Screw-driver & appropriate bits<br />
- Router<br />
- Sharp chisel & hammer<br />
- Carpenter's rasp<br />
- Hand planer <br />
- Sand-paper<br />
- Carpenter's square<br />
- C-Clamps (at least 2)<br />
- Pencil<br />
- Measuring tape<br />
- Pliers<br />
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<b>PROCEDURE:</b><br />
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<b>STEP 1: Remove Old Door-Knob</b><br />
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Start by removing the door knob. Use your screw-driver to un-screw the screws at the base of the door knob <i>(will typically be on one side). </i>Once the screws have been removed, pull apart the door-knob on either side of the door<i> (should come right out)</i>. If you plan to re-use your old door-knob, place it to the side with the accompanying screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiHe6HP2j_QKqyK79IvHc092MdvY3uBE6T0RMHWMZiBCntZFxn_RHBlWW6V2gApFYzp3mm1MqxNwWDpvw1m2foJxx65mamaklSu1Yvx465pe8BplBl9DJ9dluEB1RsdRSvlqYHlCMcJI/s1600/P1150209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiHe6HP2j_QKqyK79IvHc092MdvY3uBE6T0RMHWMZiBCntZFxn_RHBlWW6V2gApFYzp3mm1MqxNwWDpvw1m2foJxx65mamaklSu1Yvx465pe8BplBl9DJ9dluEB1RsdRSvlqYHlCMcJI/s640/P1150209.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next you will need to remove the interior mechanism of the door-knob. Slip a long screw-driver <i>(or other long, skinny metal object) </i>into the hole in the middle of the mechanism, place the door in between your feet, grasp either side of the screw-driver and gently tug the mechanism free from the door. Again, if you intend to re-use your old door knob, place the mechanism to the side with the other parts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIg5khFf7id9IH9Oa2bXzYOPVEffLg3eedshscNg4DaVwLW1HUSOVfc0Ks4stEvxIfUZTewRMJvla-f8tz0a6cf-7JP6hLkluSoIIb6GK5GnP1e30I9cmqZ9VdFZac9FSlEexmhVo8Zxs/s1600/P1150210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIg5khFf7id9IH9Oa2bXzYOPVEffLg3eedshscNg4DaVwLW1HUSOVfc0Ks4stEvxIfUZTewRMJvla-f8tz0a6cf-7JP6hLkluSoIIb6GK5GnP1e30I9cmqZ9VdFZac9FSlEexmhVo8Zxs/s640/P1150210.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This one was a little stiff, so my Dad used a hammer to knock it free.</i></td></tr>
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<b>STEP 2: Remove The Old Door</b><br />
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Open the door fully in order to expose the hinges securing the door to the door-jamb, and remove the hinges from the door with your screw-driver <i>(leave the one side attached to the door-jamb)</i>. Set the screws to the side for re-use later on.<br />
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<b>STEP 3: Mark Hinge Placement On The New Door</b><br />
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Mark the top of the old door, so you know which way is up <i>(this is particularly necessary on flat door slabs like the ones we were replacing).</i><br />
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Lay the old door on top of some saw-horses <i>(or something else that can hold them up, level and flat for you)</i>, and lay the new door directly on top of the old door, top to top, bottom to bottom. Align all of the edges of the new door to be as flush as possible with the edges of the old door<i> (the most important edges to have flush will be the top and the side with the hinges). </i>Clamp the doors in place at the top and the bottom<i>.</i><br />
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0z0nuddf3xN3qFNOC3i8wTvCFn6c1ZkT9d0KadFRuCmIIfQDvAapc3sGYa_FU-A4v47dRYGnV4egBa1C49O0Fb6odhaz_nHBTMSnSW2loBlpexbE2EWNHgxZt_Rni-sSVlXfs4SFkacI/s1600/P1150216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0z0nuddf3xN3qFNOC3i8wTvCFn6c1ZkT9d0KadFRuCmIIfQDvAapc3sGYa_FU-A4v47dRYGnV4egBa1C49O0Fb6odhaz_nHBTMSnSW2loBlpexbE2EWNHgxZt_Rni-sSVlXfs4SFkacI/s640/P1150216.JPG" width="640" /></a></i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Use a small carpenter's square to help you align the edges.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtc9oHDN3HJGBFDt8VGXzou8VmxuJjQAOdm3jy5YDbBn2N4XTyrPewfVrRGXtWt7gWBoSMbKCqF676gQakQEcJn7Gc_MtFcQqYlqt78j1v0vHJhq1BBYvdTsAPedagKV0bLGGhlNH0KFY/s1600/P1150221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtc9oHDN3HJGBFDt8VGXzou8VmxuJjQAOdm3jy5YDbBn2N4XTyrPewfVrRGXtWt7gWBoSMbKCqF676gQakQEcJn7Gc_MtFcQqYlqt78j1v0vHJhq1BBYvdTsAPedagKV0bLGGhlNH0KFY/s640/P1150221.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Use a piece of scrap against the new door when clamping so as not to damage the new door.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfRXySn85YKQPvOg9ofYLXVfo7dNj8ObvnxCROfeo0bukIOVHDdh8xtY5o3IteTfAP7Omucx2HI5uThusKV81Zz-3xdocOneidVxCpxahKOHDDzHF1NbJ27SzMd2CnHTtW66T-N81JEo/s1600/P1150220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfRXySn85YKQPvOg9ofYLXVfo7dNj8ObvnxCROfeo0bukIOVHDdh8xtY5o3IteTfAP7Omucx2HI5uThusKV81Zz-3xdocOneidVxCpxahKOHDDzHF1NbJ27SzMd2CnHTtW66T-N81JEo/s640/P1150220.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the doors securely clamped together, stand them on edge, with the hinge side up:<br />
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<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48B0-56NXueKYT0pzvzM9MmHh42DVdoz0HLUemVn9sybhVdG3oWCm70SZC7isv8h6WEbDhpHIQQsCaqmQ0dSEOCHgUYetMPBZYqaas53TttcqRCYQmxrXujoFLqX5BYxSu-OTh91wbjw/s1600/P1150223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48B0-56NXueKYT0pzvzM9MmHh42DVdoz0HLUemVn9sybhVdG3oWCm70SZC7isv8h6WEbDhpHIQQsCaqmQ0dSEOCHgUYetMPBZYqaas53TttcqRCYQmxrXujoFLqX5BYxSu-OTh91wbjw/s640/P1150223.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Use your square and pencil to mark the placement of the hinges onto the new door <i>(be precise!)</i>:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisoM9YrFS2102a7fBFJX3OpbBqC82FoyKH_f_FPmakCf6WkQHnpiVTdtIrOdzoEGisKSE8qRrYu4MsgUNunE-0wx0R_xAZP6gXa2G59OQ1PoYm4pLMXRYFKM_Pa1CTGgnKGCYuzzZRAsQ/s1600/P1150226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisoM9YrFS2102a7fBFJX3OpbBqC82FoyKH_f_FPmakCf6WkQHnpiVTdtIrOdzoEGisKSE8qRrYu4MsgUNunE-0wx0R_xAZP6gXa2G59OQ1PoYm4pLMXRYFKM_Pa1CTGgnKGCYuzzZRAsQ/s640/P1150226.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Remove one hinge from your door jamb <i>(place screws to the side)</i>. Position the hinge on the edge of the new door within the marks you made for it's placement. Hold the hinge firmly in place and use your pencil to trace it's shape onto the new door:</div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXJMfFD4ZOhAqZMmjfg2p3teu_fTIHwQeUzbjWkD1HZIoIWEbb03T-tvrp5MTlYpRCKemkCZZ8Mj6Yw799PWIptrondVr0vLByCcThr9uQ4RRSWVk2xPBrHbn7_yaUpn_k-ui9X4aE7Q/s1600/P1150230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinXJMfFD4ZOhAqZMmjfg2p3teu_fTIHwQeUzbjWkD1HZIoIWEbb03T-tvrp5MTlYpRCKemkCZZ8Mj6Yw799PWIptrondVr0vLByCcThr9uQ4RRSWVk2xPBrHbn7_yaUpn_k-ui9X4aE7Q/s640/P1150230.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Make sure the distance from the outer edge of the hinge to the outer edge of the door is the same on the new door as it is on the old door (again, precision is important!) </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizbld5rddVWJNYAgXj_PUySNo28o7gY-F57MInK82wvstqdysqlM3xGCotSmraRgFOgw_sdHQahPQh_YDLY6ifgxOdifW4l7D_xK94s1gRpg0SmJ7Xxuns2wWjiZYMVWUMUpwKMoDILWA/s1600/P1150231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizbld5rddVWJNYAgXj_PUySNo28o7gY-F57MInK82wvstqdysqlM3xGCotSmraRgFOgw_sdHQahPQh_YDLY6ifgxOdifW4l7D_xK94s1gRpg0SmJ7Xxuns2wWjiZYMVWUMUpwKMoDILWA/s640/P1150231.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
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<b>STEP 4: Router Out The Spots For The Hinges</b><br />
<br />
Set your router depth to the thickness of your hinge: </div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhakRgVIIUyUQ7068kByGJ3FOIdotWwpqB3i0kDcn4ekGF6ztJNATZ1YxoAM8YWj2_MVn3Xru7qDt29FQvUSyANSNUDFbKwz22zcgiHWRtzXTmeg07q3YVxN1MwDP5AhjzbCyo1VYzsqs/s1600/P1150243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhakRgVIIUyUQ7068kByGJ3FOIdotWwpqB3i0kDcn4ekGF6ztJNATZ1YxoAM8YWj2_MVn3Xru7qDt29FQvUSyANSNUDFbKwz22zcgiHWRtzXTmeg07q3YVxN1MwDP5AhjzbCyo1VYzsqs/s640/P1150243.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<div>
Starting on the outside edge of the new door on one side of your hinge mark. Follow the outline of your pencil mark with your router. Go as far as the middle of the bottom, then start again from the outside edge on the other side and meet up with where you left off on the other side. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnFvKfu9ZNyF39k-BinBx8W4DCLYCzH1lH9eyoOZGlayOJzikb4UtahyphenhyphenKD8jA10to_ANUr1I-1MKwkK95htZ9A-BiYuCVQXdtTOTMO0ys6NQTMWYZwqXN2eyLJc4D3BaGxPsgigTauo-M/s1600/P1150232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnFvKfu9ZNyF39k-BinBx8W4DCLYCzH1lH9eyoOZGlayOJzikb4UtahyphenhyphenKD8jA10to_ANUr1I-1MKwkK95htZ9A-BiYuCVQXdtTOTMO0ys6NQTMWYZwqXN2eyLJc4D3BaGxPsgigTauo-M/s640/P1150232.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Position your router tip on the inside edge of your pencil mark.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-sqdigBtKc096Z4qIkvs5Seiemx_0NJ2ZIIDu7LiRYWxhhkuozS4a_oWQxksHj_pAWLTGaluiX0KJoETTIAXF3K0yDmwMTKwb8X-9sw5IdW__zSePSAdclGnkijZlFKU1GMnQBb7qAo/s1600/P1150235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-sqdigBtKc096Z4qIkvs5Seiemx_0NJ2ZIIDu7LiRYWxhhkuozS4a_oWQxksHj_pAWLTGaluiX0KJoETTIAXF3K0yDmwMTKwb8X-9sw5IdW__zSePSAdclGnkijZlFKU1GMnQBb7qAo/s640/P1150235.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pull the router along the inside edge of your pencil outline until the middle of the bottom edge of the hinge outline. Stop.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySaz_DI4OR4CXZMUbrb5I1db4GBdQyXmHjtJc8oy0GRZV-VcR5JHaYNixB0zs-VasXKkf20-75rSWt_ZtxHdtTYbESo7GvgNKJCIUHJe4yfoLKUuLyf2RrX0_1N_iBK17k4cwEZ5bL84/s1600/P1150236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySaz_DI4OR4CXZMUbrb5I1db4GBdQyXmHjtJc8oy0GRZV-VcR5JHaYNixB0zs-VasXKkf20-75rSWt_ZtxHdtTYbESo7GvgNKJCIUHJe4yfoLKUuLyf2RrX0_1N_iBK17k4cwEZ5bL84/s640/P1150236.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Repeat the same process this time from the other side of the hinge outline. Meet where you left off on the other side and stop. </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
Once you have the outline of the hinge cut out with the router, go ahead and use the router to clear out the rest of the spot for the hinge. When you're finished it should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhirxkWNXyVAjXM_DFlZJufdrIr02rhVeh8tVYeZNtXb0ZokzZyJsSO0BTxGH5AqE8Xh2JgIuVv7RIyPF2rhZUA5-L3bKzdKA7yc99PaEQVwEBoEzwZr0XsL-G7jzDTZ4cwdNmJowGhRmo/s1600/P1150240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhirxkWNXyVAjXM_DFlZJufdrIr02rhVeh8tVYeZNtXb0ZokzZyJsSO0BTxGH5AqE8Xh2JgIuVv7RIyPF2rhZUA5-L3bKzdKA7yc99PaEQVwEBoEzwZr0XsL-G7jzDTZ4cwdNmJowGhRmo/s640/P1150240.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Place the hinge in the space you have created for it to make sure it fits properly. Make sure the hinge is flush with the edge of the door. Clear away any rough edges with sandpaper, and make any other necessary adjustments to ensure a good fit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjKW8zzLRBAUJ_HqRDoZB8DYE1S3bNpG9Fn755HfO5SbJZQErxU9fqexBpUEc99o0Py78MLDzWYznOeYIbO9nFZlu2KPwC5yQ3r8L8az3tKgTjlJLOwoX5Jikkx92rYut_7ZV7slB9WvA/s1600/P1150244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjKW8zzLRBAUJ_HqRDoZB8DYE1S3bNpG9Fn755HfO5SbJZQErxU9fqexBpUEc99o0Py78MLDzWYznOeYIbO9nFZlu2KPwC5yQ3r8L8az3tKgTjlJLOwoX5Jikkx92rYut_7ZV7slB9WvA/s640/P1150244.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Repeat the whole process for the other hinge!<br />
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<i>*TIP* We free-handed this process, but you can buy a hinge-template for your router which you can attach to your door and follow with your router. This can help ensure greater accuracy and cleaner edges when cutting out the spots for the hinges.</i><br />
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<b>STEP 5: Secure The New Door Into The Door-Jamb</b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Once you have finished cutting out the places for your hinges on the new door, un-clamp the doors. Position the new door into the door-jamb and attach in place by securing the hinges into the new door with screws:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQoBJGJ9SU7jFskasOHBYn3tWH-klM5hEno2G-FTO6Ibt9XB6jV9kPXHKAUOW03MCon1rppF88i-MOgmmCWjmpBqfdvGuymbNXEL6sW1O_NC-eQ8P7eCSC9pjYICaGHKBdkiwCKS-Tlo/s1600/P1150247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisQoBJGJ9SU7jFskasOHBYn3tWH-klM5hEno2G-FTO6Ibt9XB6jV9kPXHKAUOW03MCon1rppF88i-MOgmmCWjmpBqfdvGuymbNXEL6sW1O_NC-eQ8P7eCSC9pjYICaGHKBdkiwCKS-Tlo/s640/P1150247.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>You may want to create shims out of pieces of scrap to help you hold the door in position.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AO30YFgOm6O-3eKNYECnFg0dEQ-uoPXcfPFqCGgoFwZFl_YPQxkOhDe1ugNzyoozTCo11nOU9C7z2hiK0RHk11AAMHiP-SAVeB4B6-tM1hK5uHl9HXghZ_csda7vJHG_XaBOcaq9tDI/s1600/P1150249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AO30YFgOm6O-3eKNYECnFg0dEQ-uoPXcfPFqCGgoFwZFl_YPQxkOhDe1ugNzyoozTCo11nOU9C7z2hiK0RHk11AAMHiP-SAVeB4B6-tM1hK5uHl9HXghZ_csda7vJHG_XaBOcaq9tDI/s640/P1150249.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Get excited - but not <i>too</i> excited, you're not finished yet! </div>
<div>
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<div>
<br />
<b>STEP 6: Ensure Door Fits the Jamb Properly</b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
Gently close the door. If it closes easily and without effort - you're good to go! If it seems to be catching, sticking, or requires effort to close, carefully inspect the outside edge of the door, where it meets the door-jamb. Look for where the door is stuck, or rubbing against the door-jamb.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1HTiAGSeILikJbbN_QPE97c1rxWsMkilMWYSywLOF3q1zL2oD80OIPSQZD156rDrI8MNx6l8RLAe2QsEb69hAVpwBV629Lx4oVB3SSrTwRbYrOHSplXCKabsYY9POaF9pUYArpJGPtw/s1600/P1150251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1HTiAGSeILikJbbN_QPE97c1rxWsMkilMWYSywLOF3q1zL2oD80OIPSQZD156rDrI8MNx6l8RLAe2QsEb69hAVpwBV629Lx4oVB3SSrTwRbYrOHSplXCKabsYY9POaF9pUYArpJGPtw/s640/P1150251.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Look along the outside edge of the door. If you can see a slight crack of light coming through - that spot is okay. If you see no light coming through - that spot is too tight.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
In this case, the bottom edge of my door was too tight, and was catching on the door-jamb. If this happens to you, mark the area where the door is catching: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxm-5Iix7YpLkq8oXMQIG6pO66dLsjY9QenIvfpMEoH1TVUMYzgWcZmC-i8kOemSwnvjYMSEYTjbrImp-fgysbKLKMObBP6UmZJqFw_GwGiQCvAd-KqZUpztrF6qQFsu7l2AsjVMQlwN0/s1600/P1150252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxm-5Iix7YpLkq8oXMQIG6pO66dLsjY9QenIvfpMEoH1TVUMYzgWcZmC-i8kOemSwnvjYMSEYTjbrImp-fgysbKLKMObBP6UmZJqFw_GwGiQCvAd-KqZUpztrF6qQFsu7l2AsjVMQlwN0/s640/P1150252.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<div>
Use a carpenter's rasp to very gradually shave down that area of the edge of the door. Check frequently by closing the door to see if you have been able to rectify the problem. Keep rasping until the door no longer catches. </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCezQN0_lWnXOGovJmOxg1MuvzG-ARhCJtBL4DdoMB-ugg639aFGQhZkoPsTAMCAQ1KsVKORRNi1-qAZuSt-XarwlvXR637KS6FO6BAWBfkJj_mBahL13AZYpvpHARygA4K3QaXX95AnE/s1600/P1150254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCezQN0_lWnXOGovJmOxg1MuvzG-ARhCJtBL4DdoMB-ugg639aFGQhZkoPsTAMCAQ1KsVKORRNi1-qAZuSt-XarwlvXR637KS6FO6BAWBfkJj_mBahL13AZYpvpHARygA4K3QaXX95AnE/s640/P1150254.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<div>
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<div>
<i>*TIP* If the entire edge of the door is catching - you may want to use a hand-planer to shave down the entire outer edge of the door.</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Once the door closes easily and without effort, use some sand-paper to smooth the edge.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<i>*TIP* Remember that you will have to retouch the areas on the door that you have altered with paint, and this will add thickness to the edge of the door - so you may want to sand down the area a little bit more to compensate for the thickness of the paint.</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<div>
<b>STEP 7: Install The New Door-Knob</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Start by replacing the metal plate for the door mechanism in the door-jamb. Hopefully, the new plate will be the same shape, size and thickness as the old one, but if it's not you will need to use your chisel to carve out a more appropriate spot in the door jamb. What's important about this is that the plate is flush with the edge of the door-jamb <i>(if not, your door will catch on it)</i>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxO4BhFK1UZxj11xQ-Z07bK2h4ZvILAhZ_Yb-EVof3grs3rAoEfvOtkndl3QY3G9bWgm9iOIMPujRxRfIa8wGvOcxmRKF7aqa46SGhDX_hLcusDvzjHT4MT-0ldCm9KbRQw0NzFhHGnRo/s1600/P1150257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxO4BhFK1UZxj11xQ-Z07bK2h4ZvILAhZ_Yb-EVof3grs3rAoEfvOtkndl3QY3G9bWgm9iOIMPujRxRfIa8wGvOcxmRKF7aqa46SGhDX_hLcusDvzjHT4MT-0ldCm9KbRQw0NzFhHGnRo/s640/P1150257.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
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<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
With the plate successfully installed, close the door, and mark the center of the plate onto the side of the door:</div>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHSheXgStz6jdcOVBcsyLn2E3yGiBiLgVwvS8suWIeR7Xfb0gXYXya4P8KWX8tVLFdBl8xsg1juPCqa1_gdnL26JU6YzjrVlc1Er9r_-kIxLCyzluTMriNFjJTN_ptFF1QJRIXjwfXvM/s1600/P1150259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHSheXgStz6jdcOVBcsyLn2E3yGiBiLgVwvS8suWIeR7Xfb0gXYXya4P8KWX8tVLFdBl8xsg1juPCqa1_gdnL26JU6YzjrVlc1Er9r_-kIxLCyzluTMriNFjJTN_ptFF1QJRIXjwfXvM/s640/P1150259.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
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Open the door and use your square to mark the outside edge of the door:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEaUmG13UFt57i2PmiUugMMG2g1SBgpl2ZiLEQBBkgsIeO2f_UbKJTqePL631yvjmm2s1WnDz9abpwf-O1Gshca1OKJ5Z7n9ot5HFlMprLDOvSJVsidwO_aplXZDZ2H8v5FRkF9C9yBE/s1600/P1150260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEaUmG13UFt57i2PmiUugMMG2g1SBgpl2ZiLEQBBkgsIeO2f_UbKJTqePL631yvjmm2s1WnDz9abpwf-O1Gshca1OKJ5Z7n9ot5HFlMprLDOvSJVsidwO_aplXZDZ2H8v5FRkF9C9yBE/s640/P1150260.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><br /></i>
This next part of the process can be free-handed, but I would suggest saving yourself a world of trouble by purchasing one of these door-lock installation kits available at any hardware store:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQWmur_QXBjWXUR2YkpL2sxn0tS9bszun876C1ThMLMGmJksKm3Vu-DAeIQpuGLEyImyaH8e9yFnV6E_tkNmxDT4xU60YqiYXjocwNI76_f_J7XyqEKsebJiWwVXrBetjv5fWvY-tGGY/s1600/5dc4abef-ef9a-41f2-a053-5c2b5fd4e0c0_300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQWmur_QXBjWXUR2YkpL2sxn0tS9bszun876C1ThMLMGmJksKm3Vu-DAeIQpuGLEyImyaH8e9yFnV6E_tkNmxDT4xU60YqiYXjocwNI76_f_J7XyqEKsebJiWwVXrBetjv5fWvY-tGGY/s640/5dc4abef-ef9a-41f2-a053-5c2b5fd4e0c0_300.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Position the door-lock template from your kit on your door<i> (centering it on your mark)</i>, and secure in place according to directions:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimDGyN3mBN921OOGtawd6fU6PpztQsN4zKh-c9MHEWN6CDPWfAv2wYAjdYQOi8JD1xjhuG6uIWsh6Ux46w4h154dVhwS_3pQTbQf4CqgFXaAnMbF1spZYQWwrK6HFP4jFRQT3Jf4nhp8/s1600/P1150261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimDGyN3mBN921OOGtawd6fU6PpztQsN4zKh-c9MHEWN6CDPWfAv2wYAjdYQOi8JD1xjhuG6uIWsh6Ux46w4h154dVhwS_3pQTbQf4CqgFXaAnMbF1spZYQWwrK6HFP4jFRQT3Jf4nhp8/s640/P1150261.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Place template on door.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisoPO7KsXqILmD_mEu7feNxgt3V43I803rSsfjv3OCpBOta0Rj12cu5CSpyK3WNg43WOtXJ-X3HzVpYQ7zTg2QVBv5Iin-Ri_I9czmnmwvbze_9cx8zEGzoPUjB3AVfJdNgIOzmvDnRbY/s1600/P1150262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisoPO7KsXqILmD_mEu7feNxgt3V43I803rSsfjv3OCpBOta0Rj12cu5CSpyK3WNg43WOtXJ-X3HzVpYQ7zTg2QVBv5Iin-Ri_I9czmnmwvbze_9cx8zEGzoPUjB3AVfJdNgIOzmvDnRbY/s640/P1150262.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Center on your mark.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2reAfcsVKGaxz_LgjfSD7BBqnqhCc7fUuvvtWHw-lu8-dS0mu9h0jLMruro2c18dp0m9LO1SVf3yfxg2efOYdpsuwAWkGON-Bq2FPSybNpHlREurEvkC3wzhPXH3UDYatWQQGWv4QY5M/s1600/P1150264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2reAfcsVKGaxz_LgjfSD7BBqnqhCc7fUuvvtWHw-lu8-dS0mu9h0jLMruro2c18dp0m9LO1SVf3yfxg2efOYdpsuwAWkGON-Bq2FPSybNpHlREurEvkC3wzhPXH3UDYatWQQGWv4QY5M/s640/P1150264.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">S<i>ecure the template in place according to instructions (mine was secured with screws).</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the template properly positioned and secured in place on your door, use the large hole saw to cut the hole in the side of the door for the door-knob. You might not get all the way through the door from one side, so go about half-way or so from one side, and then finish it off from the other side:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADtAkkcreJzazxrlaTFfVI6yxNGTeF7qcEnjTZFcgTGcq_EOb53ihXqDQX2Vk6gqrFVoE3svDPmDcWMDXmYdrmHDZ_1WtSB5ByESeDVhJ2ImlyGNZdW_dFF9ZLsViO2zXPvGA64ThLA4/s1600/P1150267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADtAkkcreJzazxrlaTFfVI6yxNGTeF7qcEnjTZFcgTGcq_EOb53ihXqDQX2Vk6gqrFVoE3svDPmDcWMDXmYdrmHDZ_1WtSB5ByESeDVhJ2ImlyGNZdW_dFF9ZLsViO2zXPvGA64ThLA4/s640/P1150267.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuOkD3KjZERX16TuDTa2n2__tDXqBvtfWtI6Sg9M_4KIgkyFCv4dvnHv_IvllScBFCC75iAHwdeCRn9xXLfesyxRf-mN-V7xQgBTqpZwZ_g9EogR_4Jrd1grmPWvENIz3HeUacaz0_nNY/s1600/P1150269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuOkD3KjZERX16TuDTa2n2__tDXqBvtfWtI6Sg9M_4KIgkyFCv4dvnHv_IvllScBFCC75iAHwdeCRn9xXLfesyxRf-mN-V7xQgBTqpZwZ_g9EogR_4Jrd1grmPWvENIz3HeUacaz0_nNY/s640/P1150269.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNANEby194Vc26lfYmxjYhrY2jxHtqG2ouArq7th1grcZn9_paRYx9-w4V58iveAWDgduEGk3OhiN4KD8HSmG5Worq86t6HRGc_KP6dR4SJpMo6krz9GhehbxlTKKbS8uUOqFxS_r8I9U/s1600/P1150270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNANEby194Vc26lfYmxjYhrY2jxHtqG2ouArq7th1grcZn9_paRYx9-w4V58iveAWDgduEGk3OhiN4KD8HSmG5Worq86t6HRGc_KP6dR4SJpMo6krz9GhehbxlTKKbS8uUOqFxS_r8I9U/s640/P1150270.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, you'll need to drill the hole for the door mechanism by using the smaller hole-saw in your kit on the outside edge of the door:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vAioGLHHWlLvPlnWOJHhRSaclWJztw5jDzLS1xD8E2BADR_LXBUyx50jEInTux1RnQ_SuzoTff_X-HaCms81dlH-QoynsamYNsTmiwMKzIRULKFuI0mMHEAkApEiLrgEWINWweStSDg/s1600/P1150271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vAioGLHHWlLvPlnWOJHhRSaclWJztw5jDzLS1xD8E2BADR_LXBUyx50jEInTux1RnQ_SuzoTff_X-HaCms81dlH-QoynsamYNsTmiwMKzIRULKFuI0mMHEAkApEiLrgEWINWweStSDg/s640/P1150271.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhP983gZFLXuTf5sl3zLLHr-fZ-gkL11fUpJ6VNt-TI7CXY79rhYTfSzgiX_WAr4Kl8JLzz0uqpuNIpYnLn3q0BH24vOTVZDNCiDrx4Ms1b3nklrmRW69_CXLiYyrJ-Wbkqg-QfmOVE_A/s1600/P1150275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhP983gZFLXuTf5sl3zLLHr-fZ-gkL11fUpJ6VNt-TI7CXY79rhYTfSzgiX_WAr4Kl8JLzz0uqpuNIpYnLn3q0BH24vOTVZDNCiDrx4Ms1b3nklrmRW69_CXLiYyrJ-Wbkqg-QfmOVE_A/s640/P1150275.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Remove the template, and position the plate for the edge of the door <i>(different from the plate for the door-jamb)</i> over the hole on the edge of the door:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxpLtIky2ZYCRNoZ77UK62iSzhLhVLCOsJV30yuOAlezQC1_bLeC57UGLrPeA5F5izlkO9UjCfp83Jqg2PdJKnfw5vsnnxdDUe3cbgkoQUPllBqYo8C08wyL6Ju98opWa_JKbFxuw8hM/s1600/P1150278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxpLtIky2ZYCRNoZ77UK62iSzhLhVLCOsJV30yuOAlezQC1_bLeC57UGLrPeA5F5izlkO9UjCfp83Jqg2PdJKnfw5vsnnxdDUe3cbgkoQUPllBqYo8C08wyL6Ju98opWa_JKbFxuw8hM/s640/P1150278.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Hold the plate in place and trace the edges onto the door with your pencil:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMb4kYOYxKm-_kUxcWyIo3vJ0j3UpQN6JoM7mcAG-QkBlCTCA5gE-R_DXLo5JOaETAtiUAZnYGxdKCSy6hyphenhyphenspqP2gZKHbLu98qWQWNqzC4sW4sDYTnyXZwBYPUY08Yve6xvhyphenhyphenOw0ciBNc/s1600/P1150281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMb4kYOYxKm-_kUxcWyIo3vJ0j3UpQN6JoM7mcAG-QkBlCTCA5gE-R_DXLo5JOaETAtiUAZnYGxdKCSy6hyphenhyphenspqP2gZKHbLu98qWQWNqzC4sW4sDYTnyXZwBYPUY08Yve6xvhyphenhyphenOw0ciBNc/s640/P1150281.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvEBxkQ-xlYwRkXKVNlu8-xw3bKeNWwv36CS_Htzh6VNn2QtE8v-9yCmNCVDHzDIlHPlKXE57b1wXe1_DhDG5ujtQxJm6SSw-_09O0m-iVMdtoxPgWfb0dGziU_ZgRW1POMOf1qjYrz04/s1600/P1150283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvEBxkQ-xlYwRkXKVNlu8-xw3bKeNWwv36CS_Htzh6VNn2QtE8v-9yCmNCVDHzDIlHPlKXE57b1wXe1_DhDG5ujtQxJm6SSw-_09O0m-iVMdtoxPgWfb0dGziU_ZgRW1POMOf1qjYrz04/s640/P1150283.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<i>*TIP* My Dad probably couldn't emphasize to me enough how great it is to have a nice <b>sharp </b>chisel for this next part. </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Use your chisel and hammer to carve out the spot for the plate in the edge of the door:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS8CoIOX3Hs_KJkJy5DTZdF7Rbvwj7kzpU92tpuRJaXjlT3PpXdlOSlCbLzdbqbV6sk5DevYXUwti6z7_oGVx9ZFTkiQPDhh4yUM57369w8ZwqhfXLCoLbfbhyU3co0d4iTAv59gAsYsA/s1600/P1150290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS8CoIOX3Hs_KJkJy5DTZdF7Rbvwj7kzpU92tpuRJaXjlT3PpXdlOSlCbLzdbqbV6sk5DevYXUwti6z7_oGVx9ZFTkiQPDhh4yUM57369w8ZwqhfXLCoLbfbhyU3co0d4iTAv59gAsYsA/s640/P1150290.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Begin by hammering your chisel straight into the door along your pencil line to cut the outline.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnOKCt_k0zGwB16escPFs3s_R0sX04OeaFAbeDUR8WKI4fcvwH9q-kfb7UyW-LgGwdCl9JAbSpKADhjWTYfiA5k-Vknnpod12bAEQn45T67NxuDOHdl6v0171U4mC45xKX1rXibk5uSI/s1600/P1150292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnOKCt_k0zGwB16escPFs3s_R0sX04OeaFAbeDUR8WKI4fcvwH9q-kfb7UyW-LgGwdCl9JAbSpKADhjWTYfiA5k-Vknnpod12bAEQn45T67NxuDOHdl6v0171U4mC45xKX1rXibk5uSI/s640/P1150292.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>When you have the outline cut with your chisel, position your chisel flat against the door at an angle and gradually shave away the inside to the thickness of the plate.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Next, you will want to insert the door-knob mechanism into the door through the hole in the edge, place the plate over it and see if it will be flush with the edge of the door once screwed into place. If all is good, go ahead and secure the plate in place with screws. If it's not quite flush, remove the plate and the mechanism and shave away a little more from the door with your chisel.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yKhpqotvwSLxN7au8yi6G5YQBiECclfoAPLTiR9NCyHgd06kSl66s9ylQLFqek7qyKs-sVBPafFeJqsQWkMU0UvblcSAD8S5093LU74i_rYvYWPbpQtnX0_lB20IMSC0eb410JnBe6Q/s1600/P1150293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yKhpqotvwSLxN7au8yi6G5YQBiECclfoAPLTiR9NCyHgd06kSl66s9ylQLFqek7qyKs-sVBPafFeJqsQWkMU0UvblcSAD8S5093LU74i_rYvYWPbpQtnX0_lB20IMSC0eb410JnBe6Q/s640/P1150293.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Insert the door mechanism.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y9BSNbsbD23CaWCST5aL_ts5TU8lO1s-W4dvr01_6QAMXZqM1l8gAgopbPVzoHOMjXPwxlS_a18TGNz8NXmsDuMSYxFkic1XhSLpH18cKquBepnM6-Wwc2gFAkCom5JXRrDB730F6MU/s1600/P1150294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Y9BSNbsbD23CaWCST5aL_ts5TU8lO1s-W4dvr01_6QAMXZqM1l8gAgopbPVzoHOMjXPwxlS_a18TGNz8NXmsDuMSYxFkic1XhSLpH18cKquBepnM6-Wwc2gFAkCom5JXRrDB730F6MU/s640/P1150294.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Position the plate over top of the door mechanism, and check to see if it's flush with the edge of the door.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>If all is well, go ahead and secure the plate to the door with screws</i>.</td></tr>
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Now you can finally install the actual door-knob! Poke one side of the door-knob through the side of the door <i>(going through the mechanism inside the door) </i>and join it to the other side of the door-knob. Secure the door-knob in place at the base with screws.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8QHK-D7QNbMtiUxzdi1N0Xmj2GxHXQnigIGGcYJrabaJgmAmfhE0Fsux5YEMZJiWX5pSV-WHLxkuvZ4s1oDjGyclqyV9l9H1gB4QsiXjsr4tav0bsGptXMtbrJl57dHzMwapDj5syLI/s1600/P1150298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU8QHK-D7QNbMtiUxzdi1N0Xmj2GxHXQnigIGGcYJrabaJgmAmfhE0Fsux5YEMZJiWX5pSV-WHLxkuvZ4s1oDjGyclqyV9l9H1gB4QsiXjsr4tav0bsGptXMtbrJl57dHzMwapDj5syLI/s640/P1150298.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTqCYX7UGuZN2Z5wf7baFwWA4d6ZcVigW6mlRPRsjKUKFsYjN1Tx7pydKffPaW5BOeRJhnEyPGilNHLV__Gcu-CkW5xqvfFa2r9rr1RRRsQaGGucKcyqIxLr5a-wmN770cgQ5zQj3XaE/s1600/P1150300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqTqCYX7UGuZN2Z5wf7baFwWA4d6ZcVigW6mlRPRsjKUKFsYjN1Tx7pydKffPaW5BOeRJhnEyPGilNHLV__Gcu-CkW5xqvfFa2r9rr1RRRsQaGGucKcyqIxLr5a-wmN770cgQ5zQj3XaE/s640/P1150300.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>STEP 8: Check For Door Rattle</b></div>
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Ha! You probably thought you were done, but there's just one last thing! Close your door and check to make sure that everything is closing and opening properly. If your door-knob isn't turning properly take it apart and check to make sure you have it installed properly. If the door is catching, check to make sure your metal plates are flush, and that there isn't a part of the door that is still rubbing against the door-jamb. </div>
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Last, but not least check to ensure that your door closes effortlessly, but also firmly and securely. If there seems to be a slight "rattle" when you close it, here's what you need to do to tighten it up:</div>
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Remove the metal plate from the door-jamb and use a pair of pliers to bend the little metal tab inside the hole outward a bit. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGg9xBFsr3weMPwfaXVJhjlnjyJQmYp2Uzik-DOoCrbM5oNbPxqsHK5j47bd6RYtYpjv1oD4XlnM1w2jeWkEL86By5JNLyKJ5cf8eL7eZbJ0vzvAYDYoDQm_n0PRvpv2dNbkqvyUe-oEc/s1600/P1150302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGg9xBFsr3weMPwfaXVJhjlnjyJQmYp2Uzik-DOoCrbM5oNbPxqsHK5j47bd6RYtYpjv1oD4XlnM1w2jeWkEL86By5JNLyKJ5cf8eL7eZbJ0vzvAYDYoDQm_n0PRvpv2dNbkqvyUe-oEc/s640/P1150302.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR2xN6ly7VodcIJQcOehURjjnFWqFlpQzUwAlIE5MMXj9vlzMwQG3NWUd_BoXnwgB_4Un0UL67tMXmXzvukz90-w3GAxpLY2BSaB1eZmaTki8WzCKiUul9vjHl7rucYSDVYrh4H3OT8Xw/s1600/P1150303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR2xN6ly7VodcIJQcOehURjjnFWqFlpQzUwAlIE5MMXj9vlzMwQG3NWUd_BoXnwgB_4Un0UL67tMXmXzvukz90-w3GAxpLY2BSaB1eZmaTki8WzCKiUul9vjHl7rucYSDVYrh4H3OT8Xw/s640/P1150303.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Replace the plate on the door-jamb, and try closing the door again. Hopefully the rattle will be gone, but if it's not, remove the plate again and repeat the process until the door closes with no rattle.</div>
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<b>STEP 9: Touch Ups</b></div>
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Very last of all go over your door, jamb, and trim, cleaning up any saw-dust, erasing any pencil marks, filling any cracks/holes, smoothing any rough parts with sand-paper, and touching up any spots that need paint.</div>
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<b>STEP 10: CELEBRATE!!! </b><i>(my favourite part)</i></div>
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Stand back, admire what you have accomplished, and marvel at the difference your new doors make to your home!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffk1eEwouz4tpctO3r_aIUe8FEHPiAuJqQWpxoysJ_m_3eIELOaB3m4Qqe5KpwMb7diYExzv9pizKeOwzRVe0GnztjVSghRmHoxguvUUmoPcQV50U-RKrClM5MatEOO2OL8igGPOwv8E/s1600/P1150388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffk1eEwouz4tpctO3r_aIUe8FEHPiAuJqQWpxoysJ_m_3eIELOaB3m4Qqe5KpwMb7diYExzv9pizKeOwzRVe0GnztjVSghRmHoxguvUUmoPcQV50U-RKrClM5MatEOO2OL8igGPOwv8E/s640/P1150388.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Abby Metzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05054052022277837138noreply@blogger.com204