Shabby chic has been trendy for awhile now, and it is the home decor trend that my father least understands. "But why would you want something to look old and dirty?" Because it's awesome Dad! (He also didn't understand why we purposely ripped our jeans in the 90s.)
Nevertheless, as with everything, design elements and principles are at work even in shabby chic. Essentially, when we "antique" something we are enhancing the lines and features of a form while adding contrast which is why it looks good. The trick is doing it just right, otherwise my Dad is right, and it does just look old and dirty.
At the top of the most popular DIY shabby chic list is the antique ivory effect. I have seen this done wrong so many times it drives me crazy! Here's some tips on how to get it right:
TOOLS & MATERIALS:
- Sand paper (med grit)
- Palm sander (optional)
- Painting supplies
- Ivory paint (semi-gloss)
- Water based stain (or latex paint) in chocolate brown.
- Paint Spray gun and air compressor (optional - makes things a lot easier and faster)
1) Choose the right piece of furniture:
The first mistake people make is assuming that anything can achieve the antique ivory effect. Uh-uh. First you need to know what pieces of furniture are good candidates for antique ivory and which are not.
To determine this you need to look at the lines and texture of the piece of furniture you would like to apply the antique ivory effect to. Furniture pieces with a lot of curvy lines, and carved or embossed textures are great candidates, pieces with straight lines and smooth surfaces are not.
Good candidates for antique ivory effect:
|This is kind of an extreme example, but these are the kinds of lines and details you want.|
Not good candidates for antique ivory effect:
|Antique waterfall furniture.|
|Modern / Contemporary furniture.|
Because you will be painting the furniture you only need to do a light sand on all the surfaces. You do not need to remove the old paint, or finish, you just need to rough up the surface slightly to ensure good adhesion for the new paint. Remove dust and wipe clean with a damp rag when finished.
Coat all surfaces evenly with 1 coat of primer. Leave to dry.
Coat all surfaces evenly with 2-3 coats of a subtle off-white paint. Allow to dry to touch in between coats.
*Here my recommendation is to choose a very mild off-white, like a true ivory - stay away from the heavier cream tones.
When all painting is complete allow to dry at least 3 days or more, before continuing on to step 5.
5) Sand / Distress:
Lightly run a palm sander (or sand by hand) along the edges and lines of the piece. You want your paint to be fully dry and at least partially cured before doing this to prevent lifting and tearing of the paint.
I really only do this on the straight lines and edges of the piece that don't have a lot of detail to them. I know some people will beat it with chains, or slash / gauge it with various instruments - I don't. As mentioned earlier, what you want to do with this is enhance the lines and details that already exist in the piece. Error on the side of too little, as opposed to too much, or you'll loose the Chic and just get shabby.
Coat the entire piece (one section at a time) in a brown water-based stain, or brown latex paint, then immediately wipe off with a damp rag, allowing small amounts of the brown to remain in any cracks, crevices, lips or edges.
What you are doing here is adding contrast to the lines and details of the piece which works to enhance them. Again, here I prefer to error on the side of too little as opposed to too much.
7) Leave to dry and cure:
This can take anywhere from 7-30 days.